VTEC Troubleshooting
what about throttle position?it matters. because last night i adjusted my tps "wrong" and now my vtec doesn't cross over.
how do you mean wrong?
t..
[Modified by tinkerbell, 11:08 AM 6/6/2002]
You read me right, I think some one should try it Im not %100 postive though. put your VSS in a drill and disconnect MAP. I guess with any check engine lights the vtec doesnt work anyway huh. Oh well.
but i dont think the ECU looks for MAP to engage VTEC.
it only looks for:
1. Closed Loop operation;
2. ECT high enough;
3. VSS high enough;
4. oil pressure high enough; and most importantly
5. RPM past a set point.
i think this is right, or have i missed something?
good point about hte mechanical operation of hte solenoid!!!
i guess this is getting to the extremes of troubleshooting!

t..
what about throttle position?it matters. because last night i adjusted my tps "wrong" and now my vtec doesn't cross over.
throttle must be above 10%

so YES the TPS has somthing to do with it.
but if your TPS is not calibrated your throwing a code.
here is how the GSR behaves... I have had one for about
3 years now. Both primary and secondary lobes are different
heights for a reason. They both acuate under VTEC and are
at staggered heights for a reason; this promotes the swirling
of the mixture into the cyl causing proper atomization of the fuel.
if you have ever spun a cam with the head of the car you would
see this visibly.
moving on...
The Solenoid plug has voltage at idle, which still confuses me.
I have done the power wire trick... and held the throttle. Even
w/o the car moving VTEC lobe kicks in at 2750 and bounces
due to I guess the fact that the car is not at speed. I still dont
understand how the computer turns the VTEC on seeming as
how the solenoid plug has 12V+ at idle, unless it is the VSS
that turns it on... I still do not understand how a VFAC or Fields
unit changes the VTEC Xover.
moving on:
On the stock GSR map, narrow throttle driving reveals the high cam
switch at 5000 rpm, WOT the high cams come in at 4500. After the
hydraulic event, you are on the VTEC lobe. Now, everthing here
that changes is the IAB opening the secondaries in the IM at @ 5700
and the telemetry in the ECU for the mixture and timing advance for
perf. at WOT.
Narrow throttle VTEC is optimized for basic driving and MPG where
WOT VTEC is optimized for performance keeping MPG in mind.
You are forgetting there are 4 maps in the ECU, Narrow High, WOT High,
Narrow Low, WOT Low. Which it constantly switches between based on
throttle input. Throttle/cam lobe < maps
Thats the best I can explain the GSR from what I have learned so far.
3 years now. Both primary and secondary lobes are different
heights for a reason. They both acuate under VTEC and are
at staggered heights for a reason; this promotes the swirling
of the mixture into the cyl causing proper atomization of the fuel.
if you have ever spun a cam with the head of the car you would
see this visibly.
moving on...
The Solenoid plug has voltage at idle, which still confuses me.
I have done the power wire trick... and held the throttle. Even
w/o the car moving VTEC lobe kicks in at 2750 and bounces
due to I guess the fact that the car is not at speed. I still dont
understand how the computer turns the VTEC on seeming as
how the solenoid plug has 12V+ at idle, unless it is the VSS
that turns it on... I still do not understand how a VFAC or Fields
unit changes the VTEC Xover.
moving on:
On the stock GSR map, narrow throttle driving reveals the high cam
switch at 5000 rpm, WOT the high cams come in at 4500. After the
hydraulic event, you are on the VTEC lobe. Now, everthing here
that changes is the IAB opening the secondaries in the IM at @ 5700
and the telemetry in the ECU for the mixture and timing advance for
perf. at WOT.
Narrow throttle VTEC is optimized for basic driving and MPG where
WOT VTEC is optimized for performance keeping MPG in mind.
You are forgetting there are 4 maps in the ECU, Narrow High, WOT High,
Narrow Low, WOT Low. Which it constantly switches between based on
throttle input. Throttle/cam lobe < maps
Thats the best I can explain the GSR from what I have learned so far.
you left out temperature.
The car has to be at a normal operating temperatures in order for vtec to kick over, as well.
The car has to be at a normal operating temperatures in order for vtec to kick over, as well.
dipshit. :]
you left out temperature.
The car has to be at a normal operating temperatures in order for vtec to kick over, as well.
6) Car must be at I belive its 80 degrees or higher so let car get to a normal operating temprature.
dipshit. :]
The car has to be at a normal operating temperatures in order for vtec to kick over, as well.
6) Car must be at I belive its 80 degrees or higher so let car get to a normal operating temprature.
dipshit. :]
if so, Kamin edited his post AFTER I mentioned that
What if you get a new tranny put in (hit a bad pothole/cracked the housing) and then no vtec? And even the fuel cutoff is like 6g? Could the shop have unplugged a connection or something?
This is on a b16 hybrid w/gsr ecu.
This is on a b16 hybrid w/gsr ecu.
What if you get a new tranny put in (hit a bad pothole/cracked the housing) and then no vtec? And even the fuel cutoff is like 6g? Could the shop have unplugged a connection or something?
This is on a b16 hybrid w/gsr ecu.
This is on a b16 hybrid w/gsr ecu.
sounds like you have a wiring problem - not a VTEC problem.
t..
What if you get a new tranny put in (hit a bad pothole/cracked the housing) and then no vtec? And even the fuel cutoff is like 6g? Could the shop have unplugged a connection or something?
This is on a b16 hybrid w/gsr ecu.
please start a new thread.
sounds like you have a wiring problem - not a VTEC problem.
t..
This is on a b16 hybrid w/gsr ecu.
please start a new thread.
sounds like you have a wiring problem - not a VTEC problem.
t..
We did do a new thread and got no responses. So I figured since this was the VTEC troubleshooting thread...
THANK GOD THANKS GOD!!!!!!!!!!! WOOHOOO...I FINALLY GOT THE GOD DAMN THING FIXED........i havent had vtec for about 4 months now......
and what pisses me off is that is was a simple wiring problem that i probably missed the whole time i even tried looking at it........
what it was exactly was........the sensor plug undernieth the vtec soleniod had two wires...i guess one was the power source for thhat sensor and the other was the ground...and guess what.....
the ground was cut and tape with BLACK electrical tape to a BLACK loom
...this whole time i never even saw that...so i grounded the bastard and poof.......no engine light.....put everything back together......test drove it just about 20 min ago....and baamm there was the vtec!!!!!
YES.....i finnaly got it.....it took me all night,but hey its worth it.....thanks a lot guys for all the help......
YO ETEC...lets hit up the track...hahaha
[Modified by 4drSI97, 8:37 AM 8/9/2002]
and what pisses me off is that is was a simple wiring problem that i probably missed the whole time i even tried looking at it........
what it was exactly was........the sensor plug undernieth the vtec soleniod had two wires...i guess one was the power source for thhat sensor and the other was the ground...and guess what.....
the ground was cut and tape with BLACK electrical tape to a BLACK loom
...this whole time i never even saw that...so i grounded the bastard and poof.......no engine light.....put everything back together......test drove it just about 20 min ago....and baamm there was the vtec!!!!!
YES.....i finnaly got it.....it took me all night,but hey its worth it.....thanks a lot guys for all the help......YO ETEC...lets hit up the track...hahaha
[Modified by 4drSI97, 8:37 AM 8/9/2002]
this is an interesting thread. since it only concern how to troubleshoot if vtec is not working, i like to know HOW will you know if your VTEC isn't engaging at all? sorry if this is a stupid question but i just don't know how to tell if it's engaging or not.
will there be a check engine light? what is the most obvious symptoms should i look at? when my car still had its stock exhaust i could still somehow tell just by listening by the sound of the engine but right now i have a 2.5" pipe and a straight through muffler and i can't really tell anymore. thanks for any inputs.
will there be a check engine light? what is the most obvious symptoms should i look at? when my car still had its stock exhaust i could still somehow tell just by listening by the sound of the engine but right now i have a 2.5" pipe and a straight through muffler and i can't really tell anymore. thanks for any inputs.
All of the above information is negligable if you have a VTEC controller. My car will go into VTEC regardless of temperature, oil pressure (which is pretty good anyway) or speed (can be engaged while stationary). I had my VSS off for a while because I forgot to put the speed sensor back on my quaife
But VTEC still worked because of the controller. Just another tidbit.
But VTEC still worked because of the controller. Just another tidbit.
alot of people never maintain thier car and wonder why they have no vtec... it was funny. I met a dude in tampa in a gas station squeezing a 70 shot of ZEX in a H23 prelude; I was there with two other tegs, checking my oil. he was like you guys ever had your car not let you into VTEC? I was like " you are having THAT problem, OH MAN" I instantly checked his dipstick... COMPLETELY DRY. He was like dude... I just had my friend change the oil, man! I'm like "you are squeezing nitrous in this car and you dont even change your own oil!!??? OH MY GAWD...!" homeboy felt totally STOOPID... but oh well. I drove him to wal mart to buy another 2 quarts of blowby/sizzle/burn and vaporize mobil1 5-30...
here is how the GSR behaves... I have had one for about
3 years now. Both primary and secondary lobes are different
heights for a reason. They both acuate under VTEC and are
at staggered heights for a reason; this promotes the swirling
of the mixture into the cyl causing proper atomization of the fuel.
if you have ever spun a cam with the head of the car you would
see this visibly.
moving on...
3 years now. Both primary and secondary lobes are different
heights for a reason. They both acuate under VTEC and are
at staggered heights for a reason; this promotes the swirling
of the mixture into the cyl causing proper atomization of the fuel.
if you have ever spun a cam with the head of the car you would
see this visibly.
moving on...
Both primary and secondary lobes are different
heights for a reason. They both acuate under VTEC and are
at staggered heights for a reason;
Lobes dont acuate under any circumstances. It is the change in rocker connection.
BTW, All OE DOHC VTEC camshafts have the different height Primary lobes, not just the GSR.
[Modified by Quick 200k Mile Motor, 5:58 PM 10/13/2002]
THANK GOD THANKS GOD!!!!!!!!!!! WOOHOOO...I FINALLY GOT THE GOD DAMN THING FIXED........i havent had vtec for about 4 months now......
and what pisses me off is that is was a simple wiring problem that i probably missed the whole time i even tried looking at it........
what it was exactly was........the sensor plug undernieth the vtec soleniod had two wires...i guess one was the power source for thhat sensor and the other was the ground...and guess what.....
the ground was cut and tape with BLACK electrical tape to a BLACK loom <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emhammer.gif" BORDER="0"> ...this whole time i never even saw that...so i grounded the bastard and poof.......no engine light.....put everything back together......test drove it just about 20 min ago....and baamm there was the vtec!!!!! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmile.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> YES.....i finnaly got it.....it took me all night,but hey its worth it.....thanks a lot guys for all the help......
YO ETEC...lets hit up the track...hahaha
[Modified by 4drSI97, 8:37 AM 8/9/2002]
and what pisses me off is that is was a simple wiring problem that i probably missed the whole time i even tried looking at it........
what it was exactly was........the sensor plug undernieth the vtec soleniod had two wires...i guess one was the power source for thhat sensor and the other was the ground...and guess what.....
the ground was cut and tape with BLACK electrical tape to a BLACK loom <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emhammer.gif" BORDER="0"> ...this whole time i never even saw that...so i grounded the bastard and poof.......no engine light.....put everything back together......test drove it just about 20 min ago....and baamm there was the vtec!!!!! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmile.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> YES.....i finnaly got it.....it took me all night,but hey its worth it.....thanks a lot guys for all the help......
YO ETEC...lets hit up the track...hahaha
[Modified by 4drSI97, 8:37 AM 8/9/2002]
Dude, help me!! I am about to F***ing kill my self. LOL... Ok, please try and describe a little better. Did you buy your vtec harness pre-made? On ebay? I got mine from a guy on ebay that makes them. I also noticed a black wire at the vtec solenoid that dosent go anywhere. I disconnected, and found only 1 wire running into the solenoid, and 2 comming out. So I figured it was because he was too lazy to take it out. So, you grounded this wire, and now you got vtec???? If I have this right please tell me asap. I havent had vtec yet, and I have had the swap for like 4 months too. I am going crazy trying to figure out this problem, and I just might have something now!!!!!!! Thanks, Ryan
Were you talking about the white vtec solenoid connection, or the green oil pressure connection? I was thinking the solenoid connection. I tried your method, and no change. I couldnt understand this anyway, because there is only 1 wire comming out the other end. Do you understand what I am saying? I have a code 21, did you have a 22? Ryan



I'm glad I didn't let you swap out my ecu to see if that was the problem.
