vtec pressure switch
i have a 95 civic dx with a d15b p28 ecu i figured out the cel i was throwing was a 22 i replaced the pressure switch yesterday well lat night and guess what still throwing the the same cel so now whats wrong with the car im stump and i hope someone can help me out with mt problem
Check the wires. Make sure they're connected correctly. Disconnect the round connector. Put key in ON position. Check the voltage between (blue/black wire?) and body ground- should be 12v. If not, check the (blue/black?) wire for breaks. Check voltage across the two terminals of the connector (blue/black & black wires?)- should be 12v. If not, check the black ground wire for breaks & proper grounding.
Check for breaks means follow the wire and look for places where its plastic sheath has worn away or any other way the wire could be grounded, broken or disconnected. If the first wire doesnt show power when the multimeter is grounded, then that wire is not connected. If that wire shows power when the meter is grounded to the body ground but not when the meter is grounded to the second (ground) wire, then that second ground wire is not connected.
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No. That should have done it. How soon after you start the car did the cel come on again?
Btw, never replace a part until you have properly diagnosed it
Btw, never replace a part until you have properly diagnosed it
it shut off for like 2 seconds and came back on almost emediatly and its throwing the same cel 22 i got a multimeter but ive never used1 b4 so i dont kno how to operate it can u tell me how so i can chek it im off thursday so ima atemp to chek it out thanks n advance
well, if you have replaced the switch, checked all the wire leads, fuses, and grounds, and reset the ecu, there is nothing left to check.
Is it possible that you read the ecu code wrong?
Is it possible that you read the ecu code wrong?
you don't need a multimiter. Just look to see if there are any cracks or breaks in the wire.
You might do a continuity test from the ECU to the switch.
Just read the manual that came with the multimiter.
All you have to do is set it to resistance (ohms) and touch one end to the pressure switch pin on the ecu and the other end to the line going to the switch.
If there is no resistance, then your problem is probably the wire grounding out somewhere in between.
Check all your grounds too: battery, chassis, and engine block. Make sure everything is clean and tight like a virgin *****.
You might do a continuity test from the ECU to the switch.
Just read the manual that came with the multimiter.
All you have to do is set it to resistance (ohms) and touch one end to the pressure switch pin on the ecu and the other end to the line going to the switch.
If there is no resistance, then your problem is probably the wire grounding out somewhere in between.
Check all your grounds too: battery, chassis, and engine block. Make sure everything is clean and tight like a virgin *****.
ok i checkd the grounds that i could c and they semd ok and the wires were wrapd up prety good to c any breks and the wire at the conector to the switch had a hle but thats from me useing a test lite ima put electrical tape on it and then atempt the multimeter since ive neve used 1 b4 lol like a virgen pusc ha ha ha
set the meter to the 20v setting, connect the red probe to the DC terminal and the black probe to the COM terminal. Test as previously described. Don't leave the meter on when you're not immediately using it.
It should say COM next to the ground plug on the meter. Connect the red probe to the hole that has what looks like VQ-mA next to it. Turn the dial (probably counter-clockwise) to the 20V setting next to a "V-" (with 3 dots under the straight line), NOT V~ (with 3 dots under the squiggly line) and test.


