Ok gsr oil pump is fine. Yeah maybe to little oil is causing it, might as well give it a try and add alittle more. Hows your oil pressure??

 

that is the thing i am going off the stock engine light not comeing on. i can't seem to find the right fittings for this cheap-o oil pressure gauge.

 

The dash oil light i believe only comes on in extremly bad oil starvation situtations/low pressure. You can still have bad oil pressure, but not bad enough to cause the light to turn on.

 

that is what i thought. i am going to try and get the oil pressure gauge hooked up

 

Yeah i thinks thats your best bet at this point!!

 

i definatley think that is your problem for one the gsr motor/pan takes 4.25 qrts of oil (im sure your motor would be the the same if not close)and with the deeper oil pan your using a b20 pickup which should be shorter so im sure (turboxsi) is correct in it being lack of oil pressure..

 

i am going to do that to night put more oil in it

 

also check and see if one of the pistons are missing in any of the rockers (since u said the machine shop recentley did work on the head)

 

Don't know if it was mentioned already but did you happen to check your temp sensor on the head near the VTEC solenoid? If that temp sensor goes bad you won't have VTEC engage either.

Seems like you have done a good look over on everything! Swap out that sensor and see what happens. Also when taking it out be careful cause coolant will come out so make sure its not hot. Let it cool down and have someone help you plug it while swapping out. Good Luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by velocitytrends &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't know if it was mentioned already but did you happen to check your temp sensor on the head near the VTEC solenoid? If that temp sensor goes bad you won't have VTEC engage either.

Seems like you have done a good look over on everything! Swap out that sensor and see what happens. Also when taking it out be careful cause coolant will come out so make sure its not hot. Let it cool down and have someone help you plug it while swapping out. Good Luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup this is true i had a friend who had this problem on his car..

 

ok i tried adding more oil didn't work. the dowel pins in the head i have checked. but the temp sensor if it doesn't work then wouldn't that mean that the gauge wouldn't work. or is that another sensor. it is not that much right maybe 10-15 dollars. maybe i will try that.

 

YOUR OIL PRESSURE HAS TO BE AT LEAST 4.00,AND YOU ARE USING THE WRONG OIL SPECIFICATION, TRY THE 10W4O

 

What ECU are you using..

to take all the oil/temp/vss (all sensors needed for vtec) problems away, try chipping the ECU with a program with all that stuff removed.

Also how do you have the Oil running to your head from the block??

 

the oil that i am running is fine i know it isn't spec but it will work. i know of a few people running it with no problems. the oil line is running from the oil pressure sending unit in the back of the block. not home made it was a kit bought from a reputible shop. still leaning towards the head though even though i have checked the dowel pins

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20turbojason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but the temp sensor if it doesn't work then wouldn't that mean that the gauge wouldn't work. or is that another sensor. it is not that much right maybe 10-15 dollars. maybe i will try that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Temp gauge gets it's reading from a different sensor (Coolant Temp Sending Unit, has nothing to do with the vtec not working).
Does your radiator fan turn on, when engine warms up?? If not i would check the Temp. sensor (Actually called the Thermostat), it could have gone bad. The Thermostat sensor is located inside the thermostat housing, which is where the lower radiator hose attaches to the motor. Its a cheap sensor and easy to replace. Good luck, hope you get the car running soon!!

And do you still have the oil pressure sending unit wired to the ecu or did you disconnected it so you could add the oil lines needed?

 

well i dont have any coolant issues so i don't think that is the problem. as far as the oil sensor it is t'ed off for the oil line and the sending unit. so it is still conected

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20turbojason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did put a test light to the vtec silinoid and when driving when the vtec was sapposed to kick in the light came on. so it isn't that i assume the wiring. i had a valve adjustment done and when doing that we checked the dowels they are there. and the car isn't at any time throwing any codes. </TD></TR></TABLE>


If the test light came on then the oil pressure is fine. The ecu checks the oil pressure before activating vtec. So, if the test light came on at the vtec act. point then sensors are fine. If you connect a wire from the battery to the sld wire then the sld should click telling you it is opening. If you get no click then it could be a ground problem with the sld. Yes there is a rubber gasket sealing the sld internals but it has to be ground for it to activate. It usually grounds thru the bolts. If you get no click from the sld then I would look at cleaning the bolt strike area.