ok me and a buddy put a b20 in his gsr. and ever since it has been in the v-tec hasn't worked. when we put the motor in we had new valves and valve seals put in. they also port matched the runners. so here is all the things that i have checked and or replaced.

1. the v-tec silinoid
2. the plug under the head for b20/vtec
3. the pins in the vtec rail
4. valve adjustment
5. the main bearings replaced
6. the oil pump checked good
7. wiring at the silinoid is working. tested with a test light.
8. running 20w50 oil

i think that is everything. is there anything that you guys might have experanced. that might be able to help me out.the only thing i haven't checked is the oil pressure the oil light isn't coming on but i don't think it will if it is under a little. it has to be drastic to come on. i have checked all the parts that have to do with the oil pressure. i am stuck if you guys have any good ideas. thanks in advance

also there is no engine codes. not even after driving for a while


Modified by b20turbojason at 9:46 PM 1/12/2004

 

try grounding ur v tec silinoid. my buddy had the same problem. all he did was ground the silinoid. try that... let me know if it works.

 

is it warmed up enough before hitting vtec?

 

yeah it is warmed up before trying to get it into vtec

 

have you guys changed the gaskets in the vtec solenoid? they could be clogged.

 

well if that is probable i will try that but it isn't leaking oil. but i guess it could be losing pressure at the silinoid. i did change the silinoid but i reused the gasket. cause the one i got didn't have one.

does anyone think that maybe the machine shop could have done something wrong and messed up the head to the point that v-tec wouldn't kick in.

when i first put the head on the car the first time it sound like it wanted to engage but never did. but now after checking the plug in the head and the oil pressure valve on the block under the head along with everything else i get nothing.

i know there is some guyz on here that know all about this stuff. help me out

 

i tryed the grounding of the silinoid it did not work. the vtec sounds like it is about to kick in but never does.

 

Try checking the oil pressure sending unit (back side of block), thats what did it to my swap, it came off one day and I had no Vtec, I put the one wire back on and it was fine.....sometimes if you have a problem with the speedometer (b/c vtec is partly contolled by speed) that can also do it... I had that prob also but it was an easy fix.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20turbojason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tryed the grounding of the silinoid it did not work. the vtec sounds like it is about to kick in but never does.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How extactly does vtec sound like its going to kick in? Either its not engaging or it is, theres no inbetween.

Anyways i would check all the parameters of what the ecu reads to enable the engine to crossover into vtec (VSS signal, oil pressure, engine speed (rpms), engine load, and water temp). Then go from there. Good luck!!

 

i have check both of those also. it is weird. i am leaning towards the head.maybe the machine shop messed it up. they didn't seem to be the best place to take it to after i got it back. it was painted and when they did the port job they left it dirty with metal shaveings more like metal dust. poured oil on it a couple of times and drained it , and check the checked the silinoid to make sure it wasn't clogged and also checked the oil vtec line to make sure it wasn't clogged. i am just real ify about there work. they left out one of the pins in the head that makes the vtec work but i replaced that. still no vtec. i am just wondering if there is anything else to check. thanks civicvteckid for the idea

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20turbojason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have check both of those also. it is weird. i am leaning towards the head.maybe the machine shop messed it up. they didn't seem to be the best place to take it to after i got it back. it was painted and when they did the port job they left it dirty with metal shaveings more like metal dust. poured oil on it a couple of times and drained it , and check the checked the silinoid to make sure it wasn't clogged and also checked the oil vtec line to make sure it wasn't clogged. i am just real ify about there work. they left out one of the pins in the head that makes the vtec work but i replaced that. still no vtec. i am just wondering if there is anything else to check. thanks civicvteckid for the idea</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have checked all areas for troubleshooting vtec. Then i would start suspecting the machine shop too. Take the head to a reputable machine shop and see what they think, and possible get it fixed.

 

not sure turboxsi that is what my buddy said. i don't have that much experiance driving a vtec car. mine have all been non-vtec. if i remmeber right it always seemed that his vtec kicked in a little slow. like drawn out you could say. the prelude i drove last night the vtec kicked in fast and hard. he's probably just getting over excited and thinks he hears that noise.

 

well what i am probably about to do is get another gsr head from my freind that has one laying around. slap that on if it works then i am going to make the old machine shop pay.

 

Sounds like a good plan if all else fails. Yeah you buddy probably is getting over excited about thinking he hears vtec. Its probably just the rpm's getting higher, causing the tone of the engine to change(but not with the help of vtec that is). Trust me he will be able to tell if vtec was working correctly.

 

Check your wiring. Again. I checked mine like 5 times, and on the 6th, i found the problem

Directly connect the SOLENOID to the + side of the battery, you don't ground out the solenoid, its connected to the block, so its already grounded. Cmon guys.

If when you connect the solenoid wire to the + part of the battery and it clicks, thats not the prob, if it doesnt prob solved.

 

cool i will try that. thanks that is what i am looking for.

i did double and triple check my wiring and the factory ground. what was it that you found that was wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Devlins 91LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Directly connect the SOLENOID to the + side of the battery, you don't ground out the solenoid, its connected to the block, so its already grounded. Cmon guys.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure about that, because from what i understand (could be wrong) there is a non-metallic gasket inbetween the solenoid and the head (not block), and therefore there isn't a complete circuit (due to the gasket) and therefore no ground.

Its just like the ground from the head/valvecover (in front by radiator) to the frame of the car, you don't connect it to just the valve cover (you know that empty hole on the right-front of the valvecover just sticking out), because there is valvecover gasket b/w the valve cover and head so once again no ground there(or very weak), due to the insolating gasket. Thats why this ground is connect (bolted down by valvcover bolts) to the valve cover screws, which are screwed into the head, which inturn completes the grounding circuit for that particlar ground.

Anyways i do agree with checking over all your wiring, many friends of mine, including myself, have found their problems with their swaps in the wiring.

Good luck with your B20/vtec, it'll be a great ride once working properly.

 

Personally, i had a problem with the engine bogging down under full throttle. I went through all the wiring and found that two out of the three of my TPS wires were crossed. This was quite an easy fix but it was still a problem for about 2 weeks till i checking and double checked the wiring.

Your problem sounds alittle more extensive but who knows it could be somthing just as easy, i would look at the wiring again, before purchasing a new head.

 

hmmm i also would like to know why your vtec is not working cuz mine is not either and i checked everything you did. let me know if you figure it out

 

If you have a multimeter, put a lead on your vtec solenoid wire and while your friend is driving look for 12v when vtec is supposed to open. If it doesn't you've narrowed your prob to electrical. If it does open and you are sure you're not getting the high cams, then you have an oil pressure problem (which should through a code-BTW-vtec pressure sensor-22?). I also didn't see in your check list oil control orifaces. They are the "dowels" that hold the rocker arm rods in place.
HTH

 

i did put a test light to the vtec silinoid and when driving when the vtec was sapposed to kick in the light came on. so it isn't that i assume the wiring. i had a valve adjustment done and when doing that we checked the dowels they are there. and the car isn't at any time throwing any codes.

 

i had a friend with the same problem, he found out that he had too much oil in his engine, v-tec don't engage when there is too much oil

 

that gives me an idea. i used the gsr oil pan but the b20 oil pick up. how much oil is needed in this combo. or should i just go to the b20 oil pan and run the amount of oil for the b20. cause i think that the crv's take more oil than the gsr. and i am putting 3.75 quarts in it. but i didn't know that to much oil would do that. makes sense though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20turbojason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did put a test light to the vtec silinoid and when driving when the vtec was sapposed to kick in the light came on. so it isn't that i assume the wiring. i had a valve adjustment done and when doing that we checked the dowels they are there. and the car isn't at any time throwing any codes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you checked your oil pressure?? And have you tried replacing the b20 oil pump, the b20s pump may not met the oil needs of the vtec head. I don't think if you only put in 3.75 qts that your problem is to much oil.

 

i am useing the gsr oil pump. i know the 3.75 oil is not to much but maybe not enough