valvetrain removal
How does one remove the valves and springs from a b16 head? The cams have been removed, as well as the hex bolts on both sides. Do those two long bars unscrew or what?
I'm installed portflow springs and getting the head milled, and didn't want to F anything up. Thanks....
I'm installed portflow springs and getting the head milled, and didn't want to F anything up. Thanks....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zensoku207 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How does one remove the valves and springs from a b16 head? The cams have been removed, as well as the hex bolts on both sides. Do those two long bars unscrew or what?
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To remove the valves, you will have to take off the head, but you are already doing that! You will need a special tool to get the valve springs off, or you could just fork over the 40 bucks the machine shop will charge you to do it! You have to press down on the top of the retainer while the valve is being supported from beneith! Then there will be two little valve keepers that you pop out from around the top of the valve, then the springs and retainer slide right off!
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To remove the valves, you will have to take off the head, but you are already doing that! You will need a special tool to get the valve springs off, or you could just fork over the 40 bucks the machine shop will charge you to do it! You have to press down on the top of the retainer while the valve is being supported from beneith! Then there will be two little valve keepers that you pop out from around the top of the valve, then the springs and retainer slide right off!
By the keepers you mean the nuts right? The head has already been removed, and the plan so far is to compress the springs, and undo those then pull them out.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
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From: First in Flight, Type Rs of East Coast, NC, FL
No, by keepers he means two little tapered thin curved pieces of metal that when put together fit in the groove of the retainer, and hold the stem of the valve into the retainer. When you get a tool to do it, it will either be a c-clamp style, or a bar parallel to the head with a handle on it that will allow you to put pressure on the retainer, pushing it down, and most of the time the retianers will pop up if not push up and down somewhat on the tool till they become loose. Sometimes having a magnet will help in keeping track of them.
ok i see what he was talking about now. definitely going to need one of those compressors you were talking about tho to get the clips off the retainers. is that pretty much a dealer item or could i find it at like napa?
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From: First in Flight, Type Rs of East Coast, NC, FL
I am borrowing one from a friend now to take apart my heads. It is the kind that mounts to the holes that the cam caps mount to per side, then has a rod that slides into its brackets, and then u use the lever I was talking about to press down on the retainer and compress the spring. I have used the air compressed c-clamp style on some Winston Cup heads before, it worked well but dangerous with all the spring pressure they have haha.
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Yeah I am very interested in how to go about doing this too. I have a 1st gen B16 that I am installing a complete set of Portflow inners and outters and also a CTR intake cam and Hayame Cam gears. figured gonna have to pull the head, cause I dont have whats needed to compress the cylinders.
so from there what tools do you need in all a nice comprehensive list would be nice
figured:
Tools:
rachet set - deep sockets
valve adjustment tools
valve spring compressor
Assembly Lube
parts:
valve seals
cam seals
cam cap
head gasket
valve cover gasket kit
what all else would you need Im sure Im forgetting some things, and then what would the process be to go from here?
as much info as possible would be nice.
so from there what tools do you need in all a nice comprehensive list would be nice
figured:
Tools:
rachet set - deep sockets
valve adjustment tools
valve spring compressor
Assembly Lube
parts:
valve seals
cam seals
cam cap
head gasket
valve cover gasket kit
what all else would you need Im sure Im forgetting some things, and then what would the process be to go from here?
as much info as possible would be nice.
pretty sure u got to compress the springs....as far as cylinders, there are compressor air items you can use to boost the valves during removal and install....thas about the extent of my knowledge on this subject tho....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vardoulika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I am very interested in how to go about doing this too. I have a 1st gen B16 that I am installing a complete set of Portflow inners and outters and also a CTR intake cam and Hayame Cam gears. figured gonna have to pull the head, cause I dont have whats needed to compress the cylinders.
so from there what tools do you need in all a nice comprehensive list would be nice
figured:
Tools:
rachet set - deep sockets
valve adjustment tools
valve spring compressor
Assembly Lube
parts:
valve seals
cam seals
cam cap
head gasket
valve cover gasket kit
what all else would you need Im sure Im forgetting some things, and then what would the process be to go from here?
as much info as possible would be nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, you gotta get this air compressor adapter that pressurizes your cylinder so the valves stay closed. You could also try feeding rope into the spark plug hole, but the other method is better. Also, pickup a helms manual. Those torque specs are very important.
so from there what tools do you need in all a nice comprehensive list would be nice
figured:
Tools:
rachet set - deep sockets
valve adjustment tools
valve spring compressor
Assembly Lube
parts:
valve seals
cam seals
cam cap
head gasket
valve cover gasket kit
what all else would you need Im sure Im forgetting some things, and then what would the process be to go from here?
as much info as possible would be nice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, you gotta get this air compressor adapter that pressurizes your cylinder so the valves stay closed. You could also try feeding rope into the spark plug hole, but the other method is better. Also, pickup a helms manual. Those torque specs are very important.
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Posts: 2,968
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From: First in Flight, Type Rs of East Coast, NC, FL
Personally I would never try the rope trick. If you or anyone u know has a CLT, cylinder leakdown tester, you can take one of the hoses from it, or the tool for that matter connect the compressor to it, and fill the cylinder with air. I have never done it on car but I wouldnt take the head off if all I was doing was changing springs. I cant remember if you want the piston at tdc or bdc but I am pretty sure tdc to prevent it from falling into cylinder in case air fails at all.
The springs shouldnt shoot across the room as long as you slowly release them after removing the keepers. Have a friends with a magnet standby and get the keepers as you press on the retainer.
The springs shouldnt shoot across the room as long as you slowly release them after removing the keepers. Have a friends with a magnet standby and get the keepers as you press on the retainer.
I mean the head is already removed, so i dont have to worry about the valves dropping. But the springs are way too tight to try to press with my hand and undo, let alone put back together......
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