first off heres how i do the valve adjustment

i take the medium clearance feeler gauge and tighten the bolt then check it with the minimum clearance feeler and it slides easily while medium one slides in with some force.
then tighten them all up with the torque wrench

but even after that i still get noise.
theres always one or two valves that are noisy what is the problem.

i had brand new lmas in mine and i have 2 stock b20 and a gsr that i did also and they all have one or two valves that are ticking

 

are you setting them to the factory spec? i noticed you said "medium" and "minimum" but didn't give the exact numbers that you set the valve clearance at. are you turning the engine to the proper position before setting the valves? it has to be in different positions to set different cylinders.

 

Does it sound like there is 1 or 2 valves that needs to be adjusted or all of them ?

Edit: didnt read properly.

I have the same problem, 1 or 2 valves. But for me it seems to be the cams (s2pro2) in combination with the thin material hytech / tri-y header. The sound is "leaking" out, making the ticking more pronounced. Tried a B16 oem header and it was quiet again.

 

The last B20 I did (last week) I set them cold (shop was 50 deg) to .005" intake and.007" exhaust. I always go over and tighten too much (compress valve spring a bit) then back off and go for a tight fit but not jammed. Works nearly every time, but sometimes one or two have to be adjusted later on quiet cars (CRVs).

 

yep i have service manuals for each engine and follow them exactly as they say for specs and everything....

if its .005 to .007 i use a .006 and make it snug where i have to put some force to slide it back in then i check with the .005 and if it slides with little force that means im right where i need to be... but every single engine theres always that one or two ticking sounds.

on the b20s i know which valves are doing it but yet i still cant get them to stop ticking.

both b20s are bone stock
and one stock gsr also

 

B18a1 b18b1 and b20's will never be quiet.

Your fine. As long as your within spec. Noise will never go away.

Unless you put new rockers in it

 

but why is it only few valves that tick. most of the time i noticed are close to camgears

 

Never seen a B series (or H for that matter) that didn't tick. As long as you're sure they are all adjusted correctly I would not become obsessed with it.



And FWIW I adjust to medium spec on the intake and max spec on the exhaust. The exhaust valves tend to tighten up first when not maintained. I have replaced more that a few burned, or dropped exhaust valves from customers who neglected the valve adjustment.

 

Its always the vaves nearest to tbelt in my experience.

 

what can be done to fix it and why does it happend?

 

I would assume/ replace rockers.

But your ok as long as your with in spec. Dont worry about the noise mang!

Why does it happen?

Because metal to metal eventually wears down.

 

i just adjusted the ones in my b20. i went to .006 in and .007 exhaust. it ticks a bit but that better than the opposite possiblity of tightening up and burning a valve which the b20 i know has a good tendancy to do if left alone for a long time. i think the helms says like .003-.005 on the intake and .005-.007 exhaust i sort of feel those are pretty tight

you sure its not the injectors? also just curious do you have a pretty tight or loose timing belt

 

yep definitely not injectors. and 2 of these engines is honda original timing belt

my jdm b20b only has 30k and it makes that same sound on the cam gear side also
seems like its a exhaust side on both b20s and was on my gsr