Hi,

I been having this mis fire on my 2.0 liter build after my head gasket changed...

It only happen at a normal temperature low rpm around 2k rpm to 3k rpm while cruising at a part throttle it would misfire as I hold it at 2.5k rpm then as soon as I put a little more gas the engine would stall right away while a check engine light come... but as I let of the gas off then it turn right back on like normal with no more check light and it would run like normal but still have that misfire...... im not sure what cause it to misfire/stall since I changed a few part already

I try jumping connector but no blinking light nothing at all but I do notice my connector doesn't seem to work right cuz when I try to jump the connector to adjust timing on dizzy the check engine does not come on just nothing at all........

Part I have changed

dizzy cap and rotor
coil/icm
spark plug/ wired
fuel filter
fpr at 45 psi
valve adjusted to spec for pro2 cam
installed cam back as it was degreed

any help would help me a lot

Thanks


1994 B18B Block Benson Sleeved to 85mm
85mm WISECO shelf pistons
EAGLE LS Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
89mm LS Crankshaft
ACL “Race” Rod Bearings
OEM Honda K20A Main Bearings
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Conversion Kit

1997 GS-R Head
Hot Street Package ported and polished
Rocket Motorsports SL Dual Valve Springs
Rocket Motorsports Ti Retainers
SUPERTECH Stock Sized Flat Faced Valves
NEW OEM Honda Spring-style LMA’s
Golden Eagle Vernier Cam Gears
Skunk2 Pro2 Camshafts
HONDATA Intake Manifold Gasket
EDELBROCK Victor X Intake Manifold (TB and gasket matched)
Pro. Products 68mm TB
3” Intake with Velocity Stack and Filter
RAGE Big Tube Header
2.5” piping
MAGNAFLOW Race Muffler
ge fuel rail bdl fpr
RC Engineering 310cc Injectors
HONDATA S200 ECU Management
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump

 

Help?

 

Lot of things to check, start with the throttle angle sensor and MAP.

310cc injectors are a bit small for a 2 liter with that level of modification.

 

Ok ill check that first since my tps wire are just twist and turn ..maybe it not getting power

 

I have often found that 2.0L GSR builds require a hell of a lot more timing in the 2k-3k rpm range from 11" vacuum all the way to full vacuum (light throttle), than a standard 1.8L gsr build. especially if the compression ratio is lower than stock gsr compression.

adjust your distributor (ignition timing) before anything, then focus mainly on the tune.

also doesn't hurt to double check the valve lash adjustment, you may find a few valves that are too tight, which will cause them to hang open a little once at operating temp, causing cyl compression leakage

 

Ditto what motoxxxman said, however I would solder and shrink tube ANY "twist and turn" wiring first. 94

 

looking over your calibration, the fuel and ignition maps actually look pretty good.

first thing I'd do is lock the ignition timing through the smanager software. at top click "online", then click "set timing" and set it to 16 degrees and adjust the distributor as necessary til the timing light shows the pointer lining up with the middle mark in the group of 3 on the crank pulley.

hopefully that will cure misfiring issues. if not, you may just need to add more timing to the part throttle portions where you're getting some breakup.

as for the rich/lean bounce, go to the closed loop tab in parameters, and set it to wideband input (LAMBDA target). you currently have it set for voltage target, but try the lambda target setting. if it still bounces really rich/lean, you can try reducing the numbers in the "rate of change" box at the bottom of the closed loop tab.

no matter what you do though, after making any changes be sure to save it under a different file name so if anything goes wrong you can still have the original file to go back to and start over.