Ive searched and been reading up on the DIY motor mounts and coulnt come up with an answer.Which is stiffer?The poly or the window weld?

Also when taking the mounts out Id take out one at a time and use a floor jack.Where to put the jack?Not the oil pan?

Thanks

 

you mean poly by the aftermarket inserts? window weld is polyurethane.
im sure the aftermarket are stiffer; but the window weld works great and its cheap; have been using it for a long time now

 

Ive heard of people using polyurethane and some using window weld.Im thought the window weld was a little stiffer.What all types of caulk style stuff could you use?

If I do just the rear, 2 lower mounts it should stiffen things up without viberating everything, correct?

 

i would not recommend using caulk; i mean why would you even want to, having 3m window weld available..
window weld is polyurethane based.
yeah the torque mounts are the ones that you fill; but expect more vibration transmitted to the chassis

 

Are there different stiffness ratings of Window weld or is it all the same?

Wheres the jacking point to support the engine and tranny?

 

there are ways to do the window weld very cleanly. Most inserts a HUGE pain in the **** to install and the window weld way is actually pretty easy.

I have one reccomendation for you tho,

Be sure to have a few days to let your car sit or get a spare set of mounts. Window weld takes a long time to dry completely when applied that thick. I actually reccomend applying it in small steps....like 1/4" at a time so that it hardens properly. You can apply a little bit, wait about an hour, apply another layer and do it until you have filled the mount. It is a very long process, but if done correctly, you will be very happy with the results.

Back a few years ago when I did my mounts like this for the first time, I made the urethane (window weld) come over the outside of my mounts, so when it was all dry and hard, I took a SHARP knife and cut it all flush to make it look clean. I even took a propane torch and melted it a little bit to give it a shiny finish.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P@@RB@Y &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there different stiffness ratings of Window weld or is it all the same?

Wheres the jacking point to support the engine and tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE>

since you only need to do the torque mounts (rear mount and two front torque mounts) you will not need to support the engine. Just let the transmission upper mount and the mount by cyl #1 hold the engine in place.

 

The driver side and tranny mount will for sure support the engine?

Yeah I plan to have some down time, that or buy some used mounts.

Anybody drill any holes once done to help with the viberations?

Would it help to heat the window weld up in a hot pot of water before applying?Or maybe a hair dryer?

 

no, window weld is fine just as it is in the tube. Just be sure to cap it off well when you are inbetween steps.

yes, the two upper mounts will be more than enough to support the engine.

Window Weld is not as solid as you think. It is just like really stiff rubber, at most. There will be no need to drill holes unless you want it to be like stock again.

 

Actually a really easy way to smooth things out to make it look good with out creating a mess is use a Ice cube. The window weld doesn't stick to it and it comes
out very nice.

 

yeah, it is only natural that WW repels water...