i put the plug back on the bottom of the throttle body but still hooked the fast idle valve up (because i didn't know how to loop the coolant hoses connected to it). i went to fire her up, and there she went. fired and idled at around 1.7K RPM. the only problem is this: the thing sounds horrible! it's SOOOO fuggin' loud. it IS open header but it was never this loud before. i don't know if it's normal for it to be this loud, maybe it IS normal. also now when i gun it, it complies. it revs as soon as i hit the throttle; no hesitation, no stalling, no bogging.

but at idle, i can't tell if there's something wrong. it has this ambiguous sound. it sounds like it's misfiring, but it could just be the open header. so i won't really know until i hook an exhaust up. i also still have a code 5 (mechanical MAP) i really don't know why. it's a brand new MAP sensor. i have a feeling, it's dumping fuel in my motor because when i pulled the plugs they had such a strong fuel smell and they were black.

also, when it idles at just under 2K, it'll do that forever. the rpms won't come down. anyone have any ideas. do i need to close the plunger in the fast idle or something?

 

U shouldnt have to adjust the FITV...It comes pre adjusted from the factory and when you begin to mess with it it usually gets worse. If you are sure that it is the FITV then u should just fork over the $$ and get a new one. As far as looping it to get a diferent coolant signal...u can get another coolant signal from the head...u have a OBD2 right? U try to disconnet the IAC and see what happens? If u want I can get u a new FITV for like 85.00..Lemme know..Hit me up U...

 

just remove the fawkin valve and plug up the bottom of the throttle body with a plate.Another method that i have seen work is to plug up the holes with that aluminum epoxy stuff.Or try to get obd2 type tb from an Si or a type r.i plugged mine up with a plate of aluminum.Allthat valve is for so that the engine will idle high when its cold so it will warmup faster.As far as the funny sounds from your motor,check your spark plugs,see how they look.

 

I would still drain that fuel. Remember H22s need 93 octane, and that your current fuel may have gone bad. If it's misfiring, it's probably b/c of the fuel you're using. Replace it before something serious goes wrong. Even if there is nothing wrong, it's better to spend the $20 on a fresh tank of gas than risking further damage.

 

Oh yeah, congrats on getting the thing to work...

 

Is the throttle closing all the way(maybe the cable is too tight)? Check the voltage on the tps, when closed you should see .45v. If not the ecu will never cut fuel at idle, also won't run idle routines to keep idle steady.

 

Sleeper - how do i measure the voltage at the tps with the plug on?

Aeolus - i was going to put an aluminum plate on the bottom of the TB to block off the fast idle but i don't know how to re-route the coolant hoses that go to it. tell me how! oh yeah, don't you read. i checked the plugs. read the 1st post.

Dunreit - you're probably right. today, if i can find a big enough container, i'll drain that crap.

 

I just use some small pins. You'll need 2, insert them between the rubber and wire on the back of the tps connector, and bust out the voltmeter. Refer to your helms for wire colors, they are probably different on your engine.
JDM's usually have actual screws allowing you to adjust the tps. USDM screw heads are sheared off, if you have this, just use a dremel to slot them for use w/ a flathead screwdriver.

Coolant hoses, just get a barbed connector(barb on both sides), take both hoses going to the FITV and connect them together.

 

Your best bet would probably be to buy a large gas can, and then drain it out in increments. Or find some 5 gallon buckets and drain the fuel out into those. The only thing I don't know how to help you out with is disposal, as places to rediscard waste are far and few between in this area. If you need some help, let me know and I'll try to swing by...

 

Boss.

The coolant bypass is easy......get a female to female tube connector Basically you make it a strait through or.......get a piece of hose to replace the two hoses with the new one...... sorry that your car is giving you so much trouble.

 

DunReit - i'll collect 3 of the 5 gallon gas cans and drain it in there. then i don't need to dispose of it; i'll keep it for use in the lawn mower.

Sleeper - i'll try that with the pins. i do have screws on it and it's slotted so it's easy to adjust.

Spade - ok i should be able to do that.

 

one thing, i think its a male/male connector you'll want to use..
get rid of all the nasty metal tubing down there too, just connect the hoses together.

 

Spade feels stupid.......had the male/male in his mind but mixed them up.

 

Did you fail sex ed or something there Spade?

 

haha yeah i knew what he meant. i've discovered another weird thing. i was checking the plug which plugs into the tps for voltage accross the two outside terminals and got nothing. it should have 5V. BUT i'm not getting a CEL for it. usually if there's bad wiring it'll throw a code. my multimeter may be old but it still works, i tested it on the battery terminals and got 12V. for some reason it's still giving me a code 5. there's some real messed up stuff here.

 

Was the car on?


Edit: D,

that was low ROFL.......what is sex ed?


[Modified by Spade, 10:31 AM 6/20/2002]

 

the key was at the number 2 position.

 

I hate trouble shooting electrical.......sounds like you have some poking around to do......wish I could help, that is always fun.

 

Spade - hehe, as long as you know WHAT goes WHERE, thats all that matters.

Boss Hogg - I believe the TPS reads 0-5V, based on, you guessed it, throttle position.. car should be at least in #2 position, and you should see ~0V at closed throttle, up to ~5V for WOT.