There's no reason to really want to go that high... My friend's stock sleeved/rod CRVTEC running 84.50mm 12.0:1 JE slugs spun to ~9000rpm... Even with the JUN3's the peak power was at ~8800rpm.... Just build the motor and go with what you want after... Latez

 

We all run stock sleeves, and I have stock usdm itr pistons. I broke my motor in on ctr cams and itr valve springs. Now I am running Skunk stageII's with Skunk's springs. And with Hondata It makes power all the way to 9K.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What does everyone think of these parts:

JE pistons, crower rods, ls crank (balanced and knife edged crank, micropolish crank journals), honed cylinder walls, meziere water pump for GSR, unorthodox oil pump for GSR, AEM cam gears, AEM pulleys, powercore header, ACT flywheel, ACT stage three clutch, P&P B16 head (maybe stock cams, and springs), ARP head studs and rod bolts, ITR intake manifold.

A reliable LS/VTEC that can rev all day? Or did I over do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha..this funny...
before you actually do all of this, just stick around and learn a bit more..makesure you make decisions that you wont regret..!
What kinda power do you wanna make? Lots? Or just enough to have fun and keep it reliable? ..for whatever you decide to do, youll be perfectly fine with HONDA oil and water pumps. just make sure you get the ITR/GSR ones!

 

I want the car to be reliable, but I also want 13s. I have the whole LS engine (B18B) my car has a B18A right now (90 teg hatchback). I was looking for a little over 200whp. It is either this or turbo the LS motor and spend 3500 on a revhard kit and maybe run low 14s. What could I get with spending 3500 on an LS/VTEC?

 

bump

 

If you want just 200 whp on ls/vtec, you could probably pull that off with some high comp pistons, decent rods, and just be sure to get the vtec pumps. Little bump in the fuel system and some tuning and you should be good to go. Just listing the spendy stuff mind you. Quality intake, headers, etc are to be assumed.

 

Will the stock rods work well with a setup like that? If not, what kinda rods should I go with?

 

..Maybe you should take a look @ THIS.
Then check out the whole site has to offer @ http://www.importreview.com and try doing some seaches on here to learn more about whats good and whats not and about whats the most inexpensive..but remember its still quite costly....
10k.

 

Thank you! That was very helpful. I searched all over and couldn't find info that good. This bud's for you

 

i say u resleeve the b18a/b to a 2.0L, then 200+ whp will be easily possible and u wont need an extreme setup to acheive that and help keepin ur motor more reliable, wont need to rev it as high, im sure ull like that extra torque too, thats what im thinking about doing

 

forget about that forged stuff.

-micropolish, ballance ur b18 crank
-get .25 overbore ctr pistons
-shot peen rods
- ballance whole bottomend
- b16a head
- ITR valvetrain
-Itr cams
-itr oil and water pumps
-skunk camgears
-aem short ram or j's racing intake
-JDM ITR header with 2.5in exaust
- tune with hondata

190whp easily if built properly

 

i will be posting dyno results of my brand new R block with b16a head...

and you'll soon realize that an OEM R block with decent cams in a b16a head will be super reliable and make 185+whp.

with crazy high lift cams it will make even more power...

so why would you bother with an unreliable ls/vtec that might make the power...but not go for more than 30k miles...

now of course there are some that last...but its rare...

i've seen many in this area...and all have had problems...and i know its mostly due to the engine builder...however you're taking a block that wasn't meant for vtec and fabricating oil lines, using a block that was not meant to lubricate as well, rev as high...etc.

so why go against honda engineering? honda engineers are the smartest people in the world, they build amazing engines...

seems crazy to me...especially when you can run a GSR block and have better success because its simply a better platform.

 

Can't I just use the VTEC oil squirters or is that too hard to install in a LS block?

 

B18B you can, B18A doesn't have the holes, if you are going with all that forged stuff you don't need them that much, just get the proper pumps.

 

I was planning on getting type r oil and water pumps anyway. I do have the B18B block sitting in my garage. Where are the oil squirter wholes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was planning on getting type r oil and water pumps anyway. I do have the B18B block sitting in my garage. Where are the oil squirter wholes?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't think there are oil squirter holes in the b18b And to save money, there's really no need to get a type r water pump (but if u decide to go that route for the helluvit, don't forget u need a vtec timing belt also) there's no gain in that though, the ls one should be fine w/ an ls timing belt(cheaper also). But absolutely get a vtec oil pump.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so why would you bother with an unreliable ls/vtec that might make the power...but not go for more than 30k miles...</TD></TR></TABLE>my "ghetto" build (just all spare parts I have laying around-- even the worn old piston rings from the b16a1) in my car right now is well over 40k miles and running strong, though I will change the rings when I have the money/time

 

i just got done building an ls/vtec:

block-150
pistons-330
bearings-150
machine work-180

810 and my block is built....and it will last 30k if broken in right and tuned right. even with bs ctr cams and hondata and a good header this motor will make goo power......maybe even 200+ with a gsr head.

how much is a new r block? prolly almost 3 built ls blocks. Granted it isnt BRAND new....but still 1/3 the price

 

also last season we went 12.02 on that same setup plus crower 63403 cams, dc jdm header, and a chipped ecu untuned in charlies car. had it had a better header, ecu and tranny charlies car def would have went 11's on a stock honda bottom end.......maybe i will

 

How would the kind of LSVTEC I am talking about compare to getting a b16 with a bunch of bolt ons such as: intake, header, exhaust, pulleys, ITR cams, cam gears, ITR intake manifold, higher volume fuel rail, FPR, and fuel pump?

You know, the basic stuff.

 

.2 liters makes a big difference beleive it or not, you won't break 200whp on an all motor b16a, and most of the fuel stuff won't be necessary.

On the ITR intake manifold I'm probably gonna get some different opinions on this but a normal late generation B16A intake is better in my opinion. I have seen enough dyno charts to make me believe this. Sure the Type R will make like 3 more peak hp on the top end, but there was like 4-5 more hp all through the runs with the B16A manifold. This was on more than one run and on more than one engine as well.

With pulleys are you going to keep A/C and power steering? If not you could just get one single lightweight crank pulley for the alternator and call it good. I just removed my A/C and roll my windows down. Power steering is more of a hinderance over 20mph.

Lastly what is the engine going to be run as? Street/Strip? Track? Although 200hp isn't that high of a goal, power is still directly proportional to how much you can spend.

How fast do you want to go?

 

MR.Saturn, i agree with what you just said.

the P30 intake manifold is better for midrange and most people just go with the ITR because its from a type R.

and again, why would anyone go with a "FULLY BUILT" ls/vtec setup that costs thousands of dollars, when you can go with a gsr block instead?

i just don't understand...because if you're going to build a motor, why not do it the correct way the first time...and going with a gsr block is the correct way.

 

I'm personally going with a built LS/VTEC myself because I'm going for boost, and building whatever block it was anyway. Plus GSR is a bitch to clear the hood on an EF I have heard. Also I got the B18 block cheap

 

B18A/B/C all have a 270mm deck so they all have the same hood clearance problems... If you're worried about a GSR not clearing then a LSVTEC will have the same problem... My friend (jdmDXrex) has a B18C in his '88 Rex and we cut the entire middle reinforcement layer out just so that it wouldn't destroy his distributor cap and valvecover... Now it's not really that bad and only rubs in a couple spots very very lightly... I guess that's one good thing about the B16A block... haha Oh well... Latez

 

I have a 90 integra so getting rid of PS is gonna be a problem. And because of my girlfriend, getting rid of A/C is gonna be a problem too. I don't want to spend the money on a GSR block cuz I already got a B18B block and for the money I could spend on a GSR engine I could have a more powerful LSVTEC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18A/B/C all have a 270mm deck so they all have the same hood clearance problems...</TD></TR></TABLE>

O didn't know that damn, o well

Why is removing the P/S a problem? The P/S is only useful when parking at at speed under 20mph, after that it just makes it so you can't feel the road.

I can understand the removing the A/C though, although windows work very well if your gonna be driving fast anyway