what are the accepted NA tuned limits for daily driven reliability?
Has anyone out there tuned a B18C to 115-130hp per liter and had
good service from it without component failure? If so, what are the
major factors that contributed to the success of the build?

 

yeah it has been done plenty of times. one of my customers makes 221 n/a with a 1.8. stock sleeves.on 93 pump gas no octane boost!! he drives the car everyday and drives it alot. he also has a very very heavy foot. the car really has nothing to crazy. the head is a stock type r w/ a really mild cam and the bottom end is just a good piston rod combo. as far as the success of the build that is all in an experienced builder. there are alot of guys with expierence but they still suck. you just have to find the right one. any help i can give you just ask. throw me an IM.

 

good thoughts, definately. I have a guy that is a very good mechanic who I work on my car with. he doesnt buy into fads and knows the internal combustion engine well and why and how it works. plus he works on honda/acura all day every day which makes the arrangement ideal.

my goals:

first to brake in the engine and allow it to settle in for 10-15K miles with stock settings.

My engine in it's baseline form: 5000 miles

10.8-11:1CR
GSR head refreshed with stock Valves/new seals, ITR LMAs and Valvesprings
GSR cams, cogs, new timing belt, tensioner, water pump
VVIS system intact with OBD2 P72 ECU, tapered 70/60/68TB portmatched
and secondary openings tapered to limit, knifedged butterflies
Stock GSR Fuel system, Header (3mm lift to ports), 50K Cat and B pipe, 98+ITR muffler
NEW USDM ITR block
fluidyne radiator operating at 35-40% gague reading with stock
both stock fans installed
50/50 honda coolant
fan switch and thermostat (would like to see a solid 30%)

broke in on 5-30w dino GTX, changed at 1500, at 3K went to
10-30w ATM Amsoil severe service. In 2K with some hard driving
I have seen .75qt of blowby on the new engine on the full syn.
at 2500 I advanced the timing from 16 to 18BTDC.

I recently dynoed at 158/121 at 92.9deg SAE corrected w/ 118whp/tq
at 5252rpm.

when first I tune the motor, I plan on doing hondata with properly
sized injectors for up to 200whp, leaving the ITR muffler and
stock GSR cams. I want to add cam gears, tune them and
add a 4-2-1 header and free flow ca, B&M fpr. my goal is to make
175-185 at the wheels with 135-140tq and 125-130whp/tq at 5252rpm
if necessary, I will increase my drain intervals from replacing a quart
of amsoil at 3000 and draining at 7500 by 2500 miles. also, if necessary
I will run a cooler thermostat. I would like to see 8500-8750 reliably,
so a catch can setup and a new set of nitride coated Ti retainers would be
in the plans as well. I want to see this power tuned with stock or better
MPG, at least thats the goal.

for now, I think this is a realistic setup. I want to then do the 4.785 final
drive gear in my GSR tranny, refresh the synchros and put in an
ITR LSD. For a clutch, the ITR pressure plate and kevlar 6spring/rivet disk
should work well with my ITR flywheel, lightened and balanced to 13lbs.
this way, I can keep my car in brakes and tires I am sure
120hp per liter will be enough for a while... any thoughts on how to
keep this beast happy would be greatly appreciated

once I am on this kick for a while, a new set of valve springs and 250/245-
260/255 cams with head work for 11.5-12mm valve lift, 11.5-11.8:1 CR
and retuning would be the long term goals... granted I can stay in this motor
as a daily driver w/o beating it up to bad!