Pssst!

I've search but found nothing specific. I rebuilt a 1999 B18B1 with a 1st gen JDM B20 Head as my previous head was damaged from burning a exhaust valve. I installed new King Racing rod and main bearings. All within specs using plasti gauge. Cometic head gasket. NPR rings. Mobil 5w-30 synthetic oil. Rings gaps ok except 2nd rings near max worn indicated by Acura Factory Repair Manual. I had the JDM B20 head rebuilt by local machine shop who I've had no issues with on Toyota Heads. First oil change at 50 miles. Then at 1,000 miles. Engine was running fine till about 6 weeks after rebuild. Wifey has been driving car and I noticed a rod knock noise on cold start up for about 0.5 to 1 seconds and even after engine warmed up and letting it sit for about 30 minutes and restarting the rod knock noise is present. I also noticed when warm and first start up it takes up to 6 seconds for oil light to go off.

I believe I might of left out a oil plug that is causing low oil pressure or maybe something else causing low oil pressure or excessive oil drain back. I replaced the oil filter thinking maybe fault oil filter drain back valve and change to 20w-50. Did help. But I believe the VTEC engine or heads are the ones with the oil plugs. I'm not sure what's going on. Please any help. Thank you.

JRCivic1

King bearings suck.

NVturbo

Combination of crappy parts and incompetent work

shipo

I agree with the other comments, that engine is coming out again; whether you opt to rebuild it again or just swap in a used motor is your next decision.

Free Man

Free Man

muellersfan

Destroyed bearings alone will cause low oil pressure. By bleeding too much oil from the crankshaft, worn bearings prevent the oil pressure from building up.

OP - When rebuilding an engine, there's a long list of micrometer measurements required prior to engine assembly, in addition to the mentioned plastigauge readings. Engine parts also must be thoroughly washed, dried, and bagged, and assembly must be done in a clean environment.

turboLScrx

shipo

That used to be something which was sort of true, like back in the 1980s, however, such advice is no longer valid.

muellersfan

Did a complete engine build 1.5K miles ago -- full synthetic all the way!

1HGEJ2

iTrader: (1)

drain oil and look if it have some metallic flakes in oil. if yes pull the pan and look for some big flakes...if yes rebuild the engine..dont use this crank again..regrind it by a profi machineshop or use an other crank

Pssst!

Damn. Thanks guys. Need To decided next step. What Bearing brand would you recommend? Honda OEM or any other reputable source?

shipo

You cannot go wrong with OEM, I've also had good luck with Mahle/Clevite and Sealed Power bearings.

Free Man

JRCivic1

I use OEM Honda bearings in all of my builds and have NEVER had an oil pressure problem or rod knock. Yes, more expensive. Yes, installation requires measuring and actual work instead of dropping them in a crossing your fingers, but in the end... worth it.

muellersfan

And there's no viable option.

Pssst!

main cap #3

shipo

Hmmm, I've been building engines for nearly 40 years and to say I'm having a problem with your claim all aftermarket bearings have no chance of measuring up to the quality of OEM bearings is an extreme understatement. Please provide some specifics and supporting documentation if you have them.

muellersfan

The crankshaft journals may be out of spec. Do the service manual micrometer measurements.

muellersfan

I agree. The only advantage of Honda bearings over aftermarket ones is that Honda offers a much wider variety of bearing thicknesses.

Free Man

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

which is why that is also all i use only OEM. Taiho/Daido has been Honda's supplier for over 70 years. Good enough for me in only the 20 years I've been at this

muellersfan

Unmentioned Honda bearing downside: Way overpriced

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's on you. I gladly pay for the piece of mind. As do many vets here. Pay to play, or you pray.

muellersfan

I own my decisions.