Do I need to grease the throw out bearing and the shaft before I put back my trans with the engine?

 

Apply a light coating of moly grease to the throwout support shaft. I use WD-40 on the input shaft. Slide the clutch on the shaft to wear off any debris, and use brake cleaner to dry the shaft. Some people use a light coating of anti-seize on the splines, but I just clean them good, haven't had a problem with it. Either way should work just fine, jsut don't get carried away.

 

Thank you. That helped me out a lot. A good friend of mine (who happens to be a nissan guy) told me I need to make sure and put lots of grease! Smh... And for the record I like Nissans and alot of other cars. Anyways I've also payed a visit to my local speed shop. They told me the same thing. Apply a very little he said. If you put a lot of grease it will get everywhere and ruin the clutch disc because it won't grab....obviously. Your help is very much appreciated! Peace bro

 

Where do you get Moly grease? I used Red High temp Antizeise greese when I installed my clutch kit this past summer and it seems it wore off as the throwout bearing are making a lot of noise. Will this one work?




This is the one I used...

 

Im not sure if that grease will work or not... I used valvoline high synthetic grease.

 

Throwout bearing noise is the result of a bad bearing, uneven pressure plate fingers/distorted clutch plate/misalignment of dowels, or a defective unit in most cases.

The grease you use must repel moisture, and be fluid enough to allow the clutch to move in cold weather.

As a general rule, you should avoid using lubricants on the splines, and apply a moly-style grease on the release bearing support and pivot ball. These are the only surfaces where a lubricant can be used safely. Cleaning and dressing the splines does take time, but it is a better alternative to applying grease if you can avoid it. If you do choose to apply lubricant to the splines, only apply enough to coat the working parts, and remove any and all excess. You goal is to prevent rust that may cause the clutch disc to stick on the shaft.

Molybdenum is used in a lot of anti-seize products, and high pressure greases, and is desirable in these applications.

 

Oh ok good to know, unless the actual promble is the input shaft bearing.. I guess I got a defective one throwout bearing, because it seems odd that it will go bad in less than 3000 miles. I installed the new Exedy clutch kit when I installed the new used engine back in June but I did not get to fully drive the car until months later as it took me some time to finish it up to the point where it was derivable.

 

Whats up my fellow Honda friends? I know it been a while since my last update on my transmission issue. Thank you once again for all your help. I got back the trans and my brother and I installed it today and after 6 months of sitting in the winter when all was done she started up with one turn of the key. After we got in and took it for a test drive. My type R trans works 100% with those carbon synchros I had installed. It feels way better than when I first bought it from the depot. The guy Rob at S&S speed shop had to take it to his friend Ralph at DRT. Those guys are the best! They made it happen. I could hug those guys! They really know what they're doing! I definitely recommend DRT for trans rebuild. But anyways my trans works perfectly fine now and I'm baby it for now til I break it in. Again thank you all. Peace, Love and Respect!