I was replacing my tps on my p73 intake manifold and I went to go check voltage between the yellow wire and the ground and I was getting a reading of .27 which is weird because it is supposed to be 5v. So I switched out the ecu just in case and im still getting the same reading. For a procedure so "simple" as calibrating, it's becoming increasingly difficult if it's not reading right. If anyone has any input on my situation please contribute.

 

Check the ref signal at the ECU and work your way forward. Sounds like high resistance somewhere, possibly corrosion or even a bad connection...

 

I'm going to use one of those clip on splicers right by the ecu to see what the deal is tomorrow but
besides that could there be any other causes?

 

How are you checking the sensor? Have you checked for 5v from the neg battery to the yellow cable?
If your not getting 5v there then trace back to the ecu.
If you are getting 5v then probe the grn/blk wire and apply your probe to the negative side of the battery and check for continuity. Should be very low less than 1 ohms.

 

I probed the 5v constant at the ecu and im getting .27v at this point I have no idea what to do

UPDATE: for the hell of it I probed the 5v constant for the map sensor and im getting the exact same reading as the TPS

 

You must be probing the wrong connections or with the key off.
The ignition needs to be in the on position.

 

Ill be of more help if you state your ecu, harness and year.

 

ignition is on "II" ON i know im probing the right connections i have the wiring diagram

 

ecu's p28 and p06 converted to p28, obd2 motor with obd2 integra harness in 94 eg

 

What pins are you probing?
The cponnector should be disconnectd with the key on and probe threw the connector for the 5v positive

 

D19(red/white) for the map and D20(yellow/white) for the TPS just so theres not confusion its obd1 cabin

 

Okay test for 5v at the ecu at d20 if you have the same readings your ecu is the problem.

 

well i tested both ecus and they were previously working perfectly on my other set ups. I guess i'll pick up another ecu just to make sure. Until then is there ANYTHING ELSE i should check?

 

Have you checked for voltage at igp1 and igp2??
Also for the grounds into the ecu should have continuity to the chasis.

 

I check the voltage in both igp1 and 2 and they read the voltage of the battery, which i had tested today and is in perfect working condition. Previous to me wanting to replace the tps the car turned on and worked, the idle was a bit erractic and it died out sometimes at a stop (obviously because of the TPS)

 

Bump this is still an issue

 

Have you checked your grounds?
This is a weired issue if both of your ecu's are doing the exact same thing.

 

Was the tps the only thing that you changed?

 

Yeah thats the only thing. I'm stumped.....

 

If two ecus doing the same thing, it's likely not the ECU, esp if you already tested it on another car. (before and after I hope?)

Take off TPS connector / remove tb, check for resistance at the terminals (since you have the wiring diagram, I'm sure you know what to do. This is the easiest, thus do this first. you should have varying resistance when rotating the tps. If you have no continuity/very high resistance at stock/fully closed position, change TPS, it's shot. Usual reading is 800-900ohms (sometimes a little more, depending on TPS age) at fully closed position. You can adjust the TPS to these numbers at least if you don't have the 5V to reference. It should get very close with the above readings.

If you're not getting 0-4.5V on the tps signal wire and ground,
There's 3 wires on the thing: the sensor power wire, the signal wire, and the ground wire. they're all traceable back to the ECU, check for continuity for each, this will determine if you have an open circuit on any of three wires. If they check out okay, then it means you have a short. Locate by checking for continuity between the three wires, and also with ground to confirm.

All this can be done without switching on the car.
You wouldn't want to do that and fry another ECU if you have a short.