Builders help Torque reqd to turn crank estimate
Hello all,
I was wondering roughly how much torque is required to turn the crank on an assembled b18C with the plugs out before break in.
Is this a function of chamber volume and SCR even without the plugs in? What will affect it? Just mechanical resistance?
Thanks and sorry for the noob questions.
I was just hand cranking my motor and it felt difficult to do so wanted to know if that's normal.
I was wondering roughly how much torque is required to turn the crank on an assembled b18C with the plugs out before break in.
Is this a function of chamber volume and SCR even without the plugs in? What will affect it? Just mechanical resistance?
Thanks and sorry for the noob questions.
I was just hand cranking my motor and it felt difficult to do so wanted to know if that's normal.
i belive it should be under 20lb/ft
mine was about 16 lb/ft
recommended is to rotate the crank after each bearing installation check if the bearing you just put in binding or not.
mine was about 16 lb/ft
recommended is to rotate the crank after each bearing installation check if the bearing you just put in binding or not.
if already assembled, those readings will be worth jack squat. Since what you will be feeling at the crank is not the resistance at crank, but how tight a p2w clearance and piston bore you use. naturally a bigger bore will offer bigger resistance to initial movement.
Like Raverx3m said, should be done after bearing installation. I usually check by hand. If I can rotate the crank by hand sans rods and pistons after torquing the main caps to spec, then they're good to go.
You can't torque each main cap and test, because main caps have a torque order/sequence that should be followed to reduce chances of warping the crank/ruining the crank journal surface.
Like Raverx3m said, should be done after bearing installation. I usually check by hand. If I can rotate the crank by hand sans rods and pistons after torquing the main caps to spec, then they're good to go.
You can't torque each main cap and test, because main caps have a torque order/sequence that should be followed to reduce chances of warping the crank/ruining the crank journal surface.
if already assembled, those readings will be worth jack squat. Since what you will be feeling at the crank is not the resistance at crank, but how tight a p2w clearance and piston bore you use. naturally a bigger bore will offer bigger resistance to initial movement.
Like Raverx3m said, should be done after bearing installation. I usually check by hand. If I can rotate the crank by hand sans rods and pistons after torquing the main caps to spec, then they're good to go.
You can't torque each main cap and test, because main caps have a torque order/sequence that should be followed to reduce chances of warping the crank/ruining the crank journal surface.
Like Raverx3m said, should be done after bearing installation. I usually check by hand. If I can rotate the crank by hand sans rods and pistons after torquing the main caps to spec, then they're good to go.
You can't torque each main cap and test, because main caps have a torque order/sequence that should be followed to reduce chances of warping the crank/ruining the crank journal surface.
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b20beast83
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Oct 19, 2009 12:45 PM



