already searched. does anybody know what you are supposed to torque the rod bolts too? the rods are for a b16a2. Thanks.


Modified by gunmetalcivic at 11:55 PM 4/30/2004

 

I would assume stock specifications. Or you could just call Eagle and ask.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gunmetalcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">already searched. does anybody know what you are supposed to torque the rod bolts too? the rods are for a b16a2. Thanks.
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What size bolts do they have?

 

if they are arp, they are stretch bolts, and if you dont have a stretch gauge, you torque them 30lbs, then loosen them, tighten them to 30lbs again, then loosen them, then torque them to 30lbs for a 3rd time, and your done. im thinkin the stretch on them is between 0.068 and 0.078, but you can check that at arpfasteners.com.
good rod bolts are always stretched because it is so much more accurate than torque.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you torque them 30lbs, then loosen them, tighten them to 30lbs again, then loosen them, then torque them to 30lbs for a 3rd time, and your done. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There's no need to do that. Just torque the bolts once.

 

i torqued them down to 30lbs. hopefully its right .thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gunmetalcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i torqued them down to 30lbs. hopefully its right .thanks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What size bolt heads do they have. Guessing on rod bolt torque is bad. (unless you don't mind your motor going to chunks) I have the specs for the different size bolts in front of me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guessing on rod bolt torque is bad. (unless you don't mind your motor going to chunks)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im going to have to second this... ive seen way to many people screw this stuff up. you need to be 110% sure. Unless, of course... you have the money to do it time and time again, and like to blow stuff up... very expencive stuff.

 

if they are arp, you have to torque them 3times to get the proper stretch out of them...ive been doin this for years. even if they arent arp a good engine builder will torque them down mark the bolt/nut, loosen the bolt/nut, then re-torque so he view the stretch he gained...like i said, ive been doin this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if they are arp, you have to torque them 3times to get the proper stretch out of them...ive been doin this for years. even if they arent arp a good engine builder will torque them down mark the bolt/nut, loosen the bolt/nut, then re-torque so he view the stretch he gained...like i said, ive been doin this.

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BULLSHIT, once they're streched to a certain point they should be replaced. You either torque them to spec once, or use a stretch gauge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BULLSHIT, once they're streched to a certain point they should be replaced. You either torque them to spec once, or use a stretch gauge. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you ever installed/ran arp rod bolts? they recommend a stretch gauge, but if you do not have one, they instruct you to torque them three times.

stretch is measured in two different stages, free length and torque length. you measure the free length before you use them, so if you plan to re-use them, you can measure to see if theyve stretched. rod bolts are not "torqued" but rather stretched for a more accurate clamp across the pistons/cylinders.

so, now, with picture proof, i will say you, Chiovnidca, are full of ****!

now who's your daddy?!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so, now, with picture proof, i will say you, Chiovnidca, are full of ****!

now who's your daddy?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see a little red x. LOL Maybe it will show up later. Here's what Eagle recomends:

 

did my image ever appear? i can see it, even at my friends house.

all im saying is that any reputable engine builder always torques rod, head, and main bolts at least twice to get good clamping. its a rule of thumb for engine builders...thats it.

i personally dont care for eagle products either. id rather run a honda rod that has been shot peened/polished before i ran an eagle h-beam. if im going aftermarket, im goin carillo. MPO

 

Ok, I see now. Sorry about being a dick, but it still doesn't have to do with "stretching" the bolt. That's what threw me off. It has to do with friction. From ARPs site:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/fastener.html

Using A Torque Wrench
If the stretch method cannot be used in a particular installation, and the fasteners must be installed by torque alone, there are certain factors that should be taken into account. ARP® research has verified the following “rules” pertaining to use of a torque wrench:

1. The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP® lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing.