toe in/toe out, oversteer, understeer?
Trial User
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,974
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From: Sugar Land, TX, USA
Re: toe in/toe out, oversteer, understeer? (sslude)
understeer: Front tires loses traction before rears. Headlights plow into guardrail.
understeer: Rear tires loses traction before fronts. Taillights plow into guardrail.
toe in: Wheels are pointed inward, like a bulldog's feet.
toe out: Wheels are pointed outward, like a duck's feet.
Toe out in the rear will help the car rotate more easily, but it will also be more twitchy at high speeds.
understeer: Rear tires loses traction before fronts. Taillights plow into guardrail.
toe in: Wheels are pointed inward, like a bulldog's feet.
toe out: Wheels are pointed outward, like a duck's feet.
Toe out in the rear will help the car rotate more easily, but it will also be more twitchy at high speeds.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 2
From: Shiny side up dammit, MO
Re: toe in/toe out, oversteer, understeer? (Jesse H)
understeer: Front tires loses traction before rears. Headlights plow into guardrail.
OVERsteer: Rear tires loses traction before fronts. Taillights plow into guardrail.
toe in: Wheels are pointed inward, like a bulldog's feet.
toe out: Wheels are pointed outward, like a duck's feet.
Toe out in the rear will help the car rotate more easily, but it will also be more twitchy at high speeds.
OVERsteer: Rear tires loses traction before fronts. Taillights plow into guardrail.
toe in: Wheels are pointed inward, like a bulldog's feet.
toe out: Wheels are pointed outward, like a duck's feet.
Toe out in the rear will help the car rotate more easily, but it will also be more twitchy at high speeds.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 1
From: Behind The Camera,, FL, USA
Re: toe in/toe out, oversteer, understeer? (carl_aka_carlos)
0 to -.1 is acceptable range for front toe
0 to +.5 in the rear is acceptable range for rear toe.
IMO/FYI
what this looks like with a microscope is this (more exaggerated)
\ \front / / toe out
/ /rear \ \ toe in
when your car is set up this way, your cornering will be more precise
as well as being more stable at highway speeds. at least this is the case
with my DC2. my settings are not completely tuned but here goes:
Potenza RE730s 205/50/15 on stock 1999 GSR rims
F: 1.75" lower than stock
Hot 32.5/32 psi 3/32s
comptech sport springs/koni yellows 335/330 60%/50%
stock GSR upper strut brace/stock lower stabilizer
Toe: -.08/-.1
Camber: -1.6/-1.5 (with me in it)
R: 1.5" lower than stock
Hot 31.5/31.5 psi 5/32s
comptech sport springs/GSR struts 135-195/130-190 rebound stat unknown
comptech 22mm rear swaybar/tiebar brace (set at the stiffest setting)
toe: +.45 +.5
inner tire wear is evident moreso in front... I still get 15K out of a set of Z rated tires if I dont rotate. I can see 20K if I let them go... the rears stay very much
in control all around. I can load my suspension very hard, I have about 165/128
at the wheels in my teg and I have no problem getting it to the ground. no wheel hop, no understeer... also taking the right lines DOES help...
[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 10:33 AM 10/20/2002]
0 to +.5 in the rear is acceptable range for rear toe.
IMO/FYI
what this looks like with a microscope is this (more exaggerated)
\ \front / / toe out
/ /rear \ \ toe in
when your car is set up this way, your cornering will be more precise
as well as being more stable at highway speeds. at least this is the case
with my DC2. my settings are not completely tuned but here goes:
Potenza RE730s 205/50/15 on stock 1999 GSR rims
F: 1.75" lower than stock
Hot 32.5/32 psi 3/32s
comptech sport springs/koni yellows 335/330 60%/50%
stock GSR upper strut brace/stock lower stabilizer
Toe: -.08/-.1
Camber: -1.6/-1.5 (with me in it)
R: 1.5" lower than stock
Hot 31.5/31.5 psi 5/32s
comptech sport springs/GSR struts 135-195/130-190 rebound stat unknown
comptech 22mm rear swaybar/tiebar brace (set at the stiffest setting)
toe: +.45 +.5
inner tire wear is evident moreso in front... I still get 15K out of a set of Z rated tires if I dont rotate. I can see 20K if I let them go... the rears stay very much
in control all around. I can load my suspension very hard, I have about 165/128
at the wheels in my teg and I have no problem getting it to the ground. no wheel hop, no understeer... also taking the right lines DOES help...
[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 10:33 AM 10/20/2002]
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