my tie rod on my 95 coupe is fucked up. every time i go at a stop the car vibrates and makes a weird noise when i shift. now i kno a tie rod is not that bad in price but how do i replace it do i have to get anything pressed in?????? i really dont have the money to get it done by a mechanic so i am trying to do this with me and my freinds but none of us kno if anything needs pressed.
please any help would be appreciated.
thanks
cliff

 

Nothing needs to be pressed.
helms has an easy to understand write up on it.

 

could it be anything else in the car to make that feeling driving or that noise?????

 

replace the damn part. Inner and outer tie rods do not need to be press in or out. you just un screw, take off the part, put the new on, and bolt it back up.

 

You'll need a tool to separate the tie rod from the knuckle.

There are two options: a pickle fork, which looks kind of like a tuning fork that you hammer into the balljoint. This will tear the rubber boot 50% of the time. This isn't a big deal if you are replacing the tie rod, but if you need to replace axles in the future and you aren't going to be throwing stuff away, get option #2:

A bearing puller. It looks like a U with a threaded rod in the middle. The 'fingers' on the end of the U fit around the upright, and you turn the threaded rod against the end of the tie rod / balljoint that you took the nut off. Three or four turns and that sucker will pop right now, with your rubber boots still in excellent condition. I bought one, but I believe that you can borrow one from your local parts retailer.

What makes you think that the tie rod is the problem? I own two fix it manuals, the factory manual and the cheap haynes manual. Haynes has better troubleshooting info, while the factory service manual has pictures of EVERYTHING. Buy, beg, or borrow a copy of those manuals -- they have paid for themselves many times over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll need a tool to separate the tie rod from the knuckle.

There are two options: a pickle fork, which looks kind of like a tuning fork that you hammer into the balljoint. This will tear the rubber boot 50% of the time. This isn't a big deal if you are replacing the tie rod, but if you need to replace axles in the future and you aren't going to be throwing stuff away, get option #2:

A bearing puller. It looks like a U with a threaded rod in the middle. The 'fingers' on the end of the U fit around the upright, and you turn the threaded rod against the end of the tie rod / balljoint that you to
ok the nut off. Three or four turns and that sucker will pop right now, with your rubber boots still in excellent condition. I bought one, but I believe that you can borrow one from your local parts retailer.

What makes you think that the tie rod is the problem? I own two fix it manuals, the factory manual and the cheap haynes manual. Haynes has better troubleshooting info, while the factory service manual has pictures of EVERYTHING. Buy, beg, or borrow a copy of those manuals -- they have paid for themselves many times over.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those tools are not necessary and will cause you more hassle. The bolts are tapered so they do not just pull out.
Get a hammer and hit the side of the knuckle joint-NOT THE TIE ROD BOLT-hit it a few times and it will pop loose. When undoing the nut on the bolt, you may find that after about 8 threads it stops undoing and the joint will spin. Get a long bar, slide it through and find a steerdy point under the engine bay, apply pressure and the bolt will un do.

Also I belive that there are no inner tie rods, just the outer ones. Do you feel a vibration through the wheel, and is there a lot of play? If so then prob your rack. I just did 2 of them and not hard at all.

May also be a bearing, drive in a straight line slowly(10mph) and see if you hear a groaning sound when turning the wheel one way or another. Or jack up the car, hold the wheel at 12 and 6, and see if it moves.

Hope this helps, if it is your rack let me know and I'll help you as much as I can.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Those tools are not necessary and will cause you more hassle. The bolts are tapered so they do not just pull out.
Get a hammer and hit the side of the knuckle joint-NOT THE TIE ROD BOLT-hit it a few times and it will pop loose. When undoing the nut on the bolt, you may find that after about 8 threads it stops undoing and the joint will spin. Get a long bar, slide it through and find a steerdy point under the engine bay, apply pressure and the bolt will un do.

Also I belive that there are no inner tie rods, just the outer ones. Do you feel a vibration through the wheel, and is there a lot of play? If so then prob your rack. I just did 2 of them and not hard at all.

May also be a bearing, drive in a straight line slowly(10mph) and see if you hear a groaning sound when turning the wheel one way or another. Or jack up the car, hold the wheel at 12 and 6, and see if it moves.

Hope this helps, if it is your rack let me know and I'll help you as much as I can.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nothing but road noise i have very crappy tires on the car and it did at one time sound like a wheel bearing but when i borrowed drags at the track the noise dissappeared.

i jacked the car up also and held the wheel at 9 and 3 oclock and moved it left to right..... alot of play 12 and 6 nothing.......
thanks arsenal for helping me out with this. people like u keep me loyal to honda-tech.

 

I have a helms for my del sol prolly the same how to as ur coupe. just hit me up cliffy

 

actually when removing a BAD tie rod end, you CAN POUND THE BOLT with a hammer sine you will not be re-uysing those threads

good luck dude, they are only $15 each or so, but make sure you note the location of the adjustment nut on the tie rod itself so you do not mess up your front end alignment too badly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by owen_the_soyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually when removing a BAD tie rod end, you CAN POUND THE BOLT with a hammer sine you will not be re-uysing those threads

good luck dude, they are only $15 each or so, but make sure you note the location of the adjustment nut on the tie rod itself so you do not mess up your front end alignment too badly </TD></TR></TABLE>

Smart ***
Sounds like a new rack if you could move the wheel at 9 and 3-I assume you have powersteering? Check to see if you can move the steering wheel slightly to see if there is any play.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Smart ***
Sounds like a new rack if you could move the wheel at 9 and 3-I assume you have powersteering? Check to see if you can move the steering wheel slightly to see if there is any play.</TD></TR></TABLE>
removed power steering and now it is a bitch to turn( i dont mind it tho :-P)
i actually figured it out and was niether lol luckly for me the tie rod is getting bad but not all fucked up yet my rear motor mount bolt came out of the chassis motor mount!!!!!! i have no clue how the hell this happened the mount turned out to be fine and now fixed it and threadlocked the bitch ehehe. thanks tho for ur help arsenal

 

I alos removed powersteering, but I would suggest putting a Manual Steering rack from a 92-95 Civic CX. The rack is alot lighter and easier to turn. If you don't do this make sure you have a breather on the PS rack.

 

what are you talking about Aresenal "Also I belive that there are no inner tie rods, just the outer ones" There are both inner and outer ones.

 

Not on all cars. Checking now

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...E+ROD

Yep, no inner tie rod shown, some cars do have them though.


Modified by Arsenal at 8:14 PM 10/21/2003

 

#7 would be the inner, just named differently