i have a fully built valvetrain in my 97 itr motor...i cant stand the valves or rockers ticking so much....should i go to tighter valve-rocker clearences then stock or just leave them stock? thanks

 

If you go a tighter valve lash you run the risk of burning the valves because they won't seat tight/long enough to release heat.

 

im just imagining here, i dont mean to have the cams touching the rockers all the time, i would think the valves would seat right, also that would give the valves say .002 more lift if i went to a .004 clearence on the intake which would release heat quicker...thats been my thought. i just wanted to see what everyone else thinks....but since i have atleast 1 person disagreeing i dont want to harm the motor so i probably wont do it.....any other opinions?? thanks much.

 

What`s the valvespring/valvetrain manufacture`s recommended specs to set the lash at? Do that? What is it set at right now?

 

right now its set at .006-.007 intake and .007-.008 exhaust...doesnt the vavle lash go by the camshaft manufactures specs?

 

First off let me say that all b series valvestrains are very noisey. The dealerships played around with all types of oil to get rid of the ticking noise. I put ctr cams in my gs-r and it ticked like crazy. I soon found out the it had nothing to do with the clearences but all to do with the lost motion assemblies. Bigger cams will cause the lost motion assemblies to "bottom out" causing that ticking noise. After hearing this from a well known speed shop i shruged my shoulders and procceded to beat the hell out of my all motor Gsr. It ran amazing for many miles so i wouldn't be to concerned with it. How does it run though?

 

runs pretty good.....13.8 1/4

 

Yeah. Like Amped said, the ticking is a Honda specialty. You can only reduce it so much. My friend Derek (D-Rob) has Skunk2 Pro 2's in his engine with Skunk2 valvesprings/retainers. Well... his dad tightened the valve clearances up a bit to get rid of some of the ticking... and well... later that night, it was having issues staying running. When coming to a stop it kept trying to die out and stall. Turns out his dad tightened it .001 out of spec from what Skunk2 recommends and that caused it to run like that. Loosened them up a bit, and ran like a champ again. It ticked when tightened up as well. So it's not like it got quieter after the tightening.

 

You do not want to run your valves tight. I would adjust them to spec with the engine fully cold. With tight valves you run risk of burning valves. Plus it will lower your manifold vaccum causing your map sensor to run make the car run rich. I would rather deal with the tick.

 

^^^ Yes. Valve settings need to be done with a bone cold engine.