Tensioner Bolt removable??
Okay, I need to know if the timing belt tensioner bolt is removable WITHOUT taking the whole timing belt assembly off?--because I can never get that crank pulley off.
Or is the tensioner, spring, etc. going to fall off if the bolt is removed--to be replaced because the bolt itself is rounded....which leads to my next problem: How can I get that rounded/stripped head off? I was thinking of trying that "Gator Grip" socket on TV--anyone ever had any experience with it?
Or is the tensioner, spring, etc. going to fall off if the bolt is removed--to be replaced because the bolt itself is rounded....which leads to my next problem: How can I get that rounded/stripped head off? I was thinking of trying that "Gator Grip" socket on TV--anyone ever had any experience with it?
If you're looking to get that stripped bolt out, run down to your local parts or hardware store and get a pair of vise-grips. They're like pliers sort of, but you turn a screw on the end of the handle to adjust to the size of the bolt, then clamp them down, and turn. Works great for taking off bolts with stripped heads.
As far as the first question: I have no clue. I'm about to replace the timing belt on my car myself next weekend. Should be fun...
As far as the first question: I have no clue. I'm about to replace the timing belt on my car myself next weekend. Should be fun...
Yeah, I've heard that before but where the bolt is, there's lack of space to fit a vise grip in due to the lower timing belt cover. Although, there's an opening where the tensioner bolt is, which is enough room for a socket to fit, but that's it. Also, I don't have that much room due to the engine mount, engine bay wall, etc. (engine still in car). Thanks for the input though matt-eg.
if you take out the bolt entirely, yes the whole assembly will fall apart. i hope you're prepared to remove your drivetrain because that's just about the only way you're gonna get it off.
how i did it was after i pulled the motor out, i hammered a 13 mm 12 point socket on to the stripped bolt head. it was crazy, i first had to get creative with the dremel, but in the end it worked, and now i have a neat souvenir because that bolt and 13 mm socket is now a permenetly one piece, which sits on my desk.
how i did it was after i pulled the motor out, i hammered a 13 mm 12 point socket on to the stripped bolt head. it was crazy, i first had to get creative with the dremel, but in the end it worked, and now i have a neat souvenir because that bolt and 13 mm socket is now a permenetly one piece, which sits on my desk.
from now on i will ONLY use a 6 point 14mm on that bolt. and if i have any doubts of freeing it, i will not hesitate to take off the front driver side mount, so i can have more clearance.
So I guess I'm going to have to take that stupid crank pulley off after all. Does anyone know the size & what kind of screw strong enough to use to make one of those flywheel-to-case lock (if anyone knows what I'm talking about
) in order to pull the crank pulley off.
Also, once I get that crank pulley bolt off, can I just shoot it tight w/ an air gun a couple of times or that won't be tight enough?--Don't have torque wrench.
) in order to pull the crank pulley off. Also, once I get that crank pulley bolt off, can I just shoot it tight w/ an air gun a couple of times or that won't be tight enough?--Don't have torque wrench.
that should be good enough.
a good method to lock up the flywheel is to take off the flywheel cover and thread a bolt on the the back of the flywheel (sometimes there's room for this to work) and then thread one of those 17mm bolts into the bellhousing. use a wrench between the two to lock em up. if you cant thread something into the flywheel try using the holes drilled for balancing to hold a bolt.
this is kinda hard to explain in words, so i hope you understand what im saying.
it would be a lot easier to buy the SP (shiley products) tool that's specially made for loosening the crnak pulley. its not more than $60.
a good method to lock up the flywheel is to take off the flywheel cover and thread a bolt on the the back of the flywheel (sometimes there's room for this to work) and then thread one of those 17mm bolts into the bellhousing. use a wrench between the two to lock em up. if you cant thread something into the flywheel try using the holes drilled for balancing to hold a bolt.
this is kinda hard to explain in words, so i hope you understand what im saying.
it would be a lot easier to buy the SP (shiley products) tool that's specially made for loosening the crnak pulley. its not more than $60.
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i beat the hell out of a lot of tools and various locking devices trying to get a crank pulley off this weekdend - what i found best for locking up the flywheel was sticking a fat bolt between one of the balancing holes on the inside face of the flywheel and the block itself. put the threaded end into the balancing hole (at an angle) and the cap end against a corner or nook of the block. keep pressure on your socket (so the bolt doesn't fall out
) and then get on it with a big socket and a BIG extension pipe. it'll come off.
) and then get on it with a big socket and a BIG extension pipe. it'll come off.
So I guess I'm going to have to take that stupid crank pulley off after all. Does anyone know the size & what kind of screw strong enough to use to make one of those flywheel-to-case lock (if anyone knows what I'm talking about
) in order to pull the crank pulley off.
Also, once I get that crank pulley bolt off, can I just shoot it tight w/ an air gun a couple of times or that won't be tight enough?--Don't have torque wrench.
) in order to pull the crank pulley off. Also, once I get that crank pulley bolt off, can I just shoot it tight w/ an air gun a couple of times or that won't be tight enough?--Don't have torque wrench.
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clindberg86
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jun 26, 2014 08:51 AM




