So, I am armed with some new info on my car running too damn hot problem.
To refresh... On track days car heats up, HOT, but pyrometer check on all hoses are all ok and fan is not on. Now on highway, under load, (up long hill, run up through the gears at full throttle) it starts to heat up. Funny thing is, if I let off and coast with clutch in, the temp stays up, but as soon as I release the clutch and get back on the gas, the temp gauge drops back to normal instantly, I mean fast, not normal.
Now what I am thinking is this.... The guage sending unit is messed. Why? Well, the gauge goes up, only under heavy load, the fan operates completely normal in traffic etc but doesn't seem to be affected by the rise in gauge temp at the track etc. I believe that the sending unit and temp switch are separate, correct? So if the sending unit is messed it won't actually affect how the car runs and also won't affect the fan. Also, when the thing is pegged past the red zone, there is zero coolant overflow, and the engine doesn't seem hotter than any other time I would open the hood after it has been running for a while.
Anyone agree/disagree, have any experience with this?
Thanks!

 

paul--

i have seen a very similiar situation with my friends 92 dx hatch. (he now has a 96 ex d16, and a turbo) --his car will do the same, but when he shifts, the temp needle sometimes pegs the H, then when he is back on the gas the needle drops down to normal. FAST. his car isnt really running hot--he has an integra radiator, and his fan is setup with an aux. switch, whereas on hot days, its always on.
obviously, the problem is electrical, at least in his case with the jumping needle. maybe try a new temp sending unit-get one used out of a newer civic -- like 95. i know they are expensive @ the dealer. --just an idea-- (**my friend hasnt done this**he just uses a autometer temp gauge instead.)

 

I have the same problem with my car on the track... The car will slowly over heat when you don't keep the revs up. My engine thermostat is toasted and is sticking close or is restricting flow when there isn't enough pressure form the water pump (idle). I know because the radiator air comes out cool at idle albeit the gauge shows the temp is higher than normal and the air heats up rapidly when you rev it slightly.. So it might be a good idea to change it..

The rapid gauge movement might be caused by air pockets inside the cooling system moving around. Make sure to let all the air out when you refill the system.

Charleston


[Modified by CivicFerio, 10:54 AM 8/15/2001]


[Modified by CivicFerio, 10:57 AM 8/15/2001]