Check it out, a few questions with things to point out, most highlighted in pink.

1.Sticker shows P30-A02, which should be usdm P30, right... or is it a PR4/P61/other (see 2.)?
2.Bar in middle shows PR4 (black)(90-93 ls/gs teg). Is it even a PR4 for sure (see 3.-5.)?
3.Far bottom right and far upper left - just a wire with no resistor, is this normal?
4.(Multi-part question)Left center - instead of a black jobber (jobber = what I believe should look identical to what is directly to the right/above of the three resistors shown which is pretty hard to see even in this pic), it's 3 single wires with resistors missing two in the link. Am I missing the black jobber, does it matter, are the 3 resistors doing their job correctly?
5.Top right of ecu & very top right - wtf... it's not connected. Anybody know what the smaller board does and basically if this isn't connected, the ecu ain't worth a damn? Can be fixed easily as seen (I'm not shabby at soldering, wires & boards)?
6.Ignoring any questions above, <U>what board do you think this ecu is, not taking the casing into consideration?</U> (or is it anything I want that is obd1?)
7.<U>Can it be chipped as is to run as a P30???</U> (after fixing the wire if necessary)


Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting

Thank you to anyone who can provide insight to any of these questions.

Bump for looking, and feel free to link this to other sites. Maybe you know someone that does know?


Modified by gmoneyef at 10:41 PM 10/27/2006

 

thats a 1720 board its a ls thats been converted to vtec and that peice to the side is a knock board.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FaceTuned &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a 1720 board its a ls thats been converted to vtec and that peice to the side is a knock board.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that. So you think the white wire connecting the knock board can be fixed? It looks as if I peel some back and solder them back, it may work.

If that can be fixed, I would only then just need to get a p30 stock chip, slip her in the el socketo to run it as such?

 

I wouldn't worry about the knock board. It is not really that effective anyway. Your board was a PR4 because there is #232 code on the MCU. If you want a P30, just get a chip with P30 code on it and request that the knock sensor is disabled.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't worry about the knock board. It is not really that effective anyway. Your board was a PR4 because there is #232 code on the MCU. If you want a P30, just get a chip with P30 code on it and request that the knock sensor is disabled. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So basically to sum this up. Everything is ok and I just need a usdm p30 chip with base fuel/timing maps and definately knock disabled.

What other differences are there between the pr4 and p30 to get modded in the chip; like governor, o2's (1 or 2), etc.?

 

burn a chip and run it. not sure on the differences, you can check no speed limit, custom rev limit and stock a/f maps and ign timing for your motor. o2s can be disabled as well

 

You could use the JDM #203 stock map or the USDM #305 stock map for your ECU. You would need to disable the knock sensor in either of those. The JDM map has about 1.25* more timing in the upper range of the low cam map, and about 3% less fuel. The JDM map also has an additional 100 RPM before you hit the rev limiter, but it also has a 180 km/H speed limiter.

If I was setting your ECU up for a stock or mild B16, I would import the JDM maps into the USDM code and only disable the knock sensor.

OBD-1 only uses one o2 sensor, and I would definitely leave it enabled to save some gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Danny_EJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">burn a chip and run it. not sure on the differences, you can check no speed limit, custom rev limit and stock a/f maps and ign timing for your motor. o2s can be disabled as well</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could use the JDM #203 stock map or the USDM #305 stock map for your ECU. You would need to disable the knock sensor in either of those. The JDM map has about 1.25* more timing in the upper range of the low cam map, and about 3% less fuel. The JDM map also has an additional 100 RPM before you hit the rev limiter, but it also has a 180 km/H speed limiter.

If I was setting your ECU up for a stock or mild B16, I would import the JDM maps into the USDM code and only disable the knock sensor.

OBD-1 only uses one o2 sensor, and I would definitely leave it enabled to save some gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks for the feedback. Well, I would probably get a couple chips to swap. I am basically trying to pass bar with this ecu so the usdm maps would be better for that. I already have the jdm p30, so no need for that chip. maybe just to rid the governor.

Anybody have experience with refs and whether they could tell this ecu is not authentically usdm p30? Anyone herd of them removing sensors to test the ecu, like they should set off cel when unplugged/removed (since this boards knock is not attached)?

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the ref reaching around and under your intake manifold to unplug the knock sensor. I would be a little more concerned about the fact that the sticker cannot be original, and will either show signs of being removed and stuck on your case, or simply a forgery. Also this ECU will not bolt into EG/EJ/EK chassis properly because it has the 2nd gen Integra bolt pattern.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't worry too much about the ref reaching around and under your intake manifold to unplug the knock sensor. I would be a little more concerned about the fact that the sticker cannot be original, and will either show signs of being removed and stuck on your case, or simply a forgery. Also this ECU will not bolt into EG/EJ/EK chassis properly because it has the 2nd gen Integra bolt pattern.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I noticed the bolt pattern. I actually have an ED7, and it looks as if it would fit if mounted 180 degrees with plugs facing right, not left. Not sure what they would say about that. I'll have a jumper to extend the wires a bit.

The sticker looks pretty legit with exception to someone stating that the AW was not a P30 usdm code (not sure even what those on the side mean). Further that, do they just look at the numbers or scan the barcode? I would wonder if the barcode even matches the numbers?