swapping engine! need help!
ok guys i seriously need assistance on this. i'm planning a d-d swap (same engine just better condition) and i need to know exactly what i need in order to get it all done in one session. i'm talkin about everything i need: filters, tubes, whatever needs to be changed in the process of replacing an engine with the same exact kind of eng. (d16z6 btw) anything will help.
depends ont eh condtiion of the engine.
last time i did a D to D install it was a d16z6 coming out, and a d16y8 going in, and we had to swap over the inatek manifold, header, and water pipe on the back of the block, and it took about 7 hours total form the time he pulled in til teh time he drove away.
anyway it all depends too much on what is broken or old on teh new engine....
last time i did a D to D install it was a d16z6 coming out, and a d16y8 going in, and we had to swap over the inatek manifold, header, and water pipe on the back of the block, and it took about 7 hours total form the time he pulled in til teh time he drove away.
anyway it all depends too much on what is broken or old on teh new engine....
it's a d16z6 being replaced by the same exact thing only in better condition. that's the only thing. i'm considering the y8 im but that's for some other time right now all i'm concerned about is the engine-all stock. again any help would rock. and bump.
c'mon guys i know it may sound dumb but what has to be replaced when swappin for the same engine? gaskets and filters i figured, but hoses? valves? sensors? what else. i need to know soon so i can get the stuff.
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Just replace stupid little things, like the thermostat, coolant hoses, sparkplugs, etc. All the stuff that is just a bitch to find out you need at 11pm on a Sunday night.
Rich
Just use commion sense
Rich
Just use commion sense
where is rockville? i'll be doing the work in darlington on saturday hopefully. help would rock! i might start on friday night just in case i need stuff, that way i can get it on sat. morn. if you want to help i would aprecciate it, there might be a mechanic there but that's really iffy. just e-mail me for directions woody@randomstuff.us
change
water pump
timing belt
cam seal
main seal
rear main seal
oil and filter
coolant
oil for the transmission
thermostat
thing to check to see if it is needed
oil pan gasket
vavle cover gasket with spark plug tube gasket
clutch set (it 5spd)
axles or boots
spark plugs
wires
cap and rotor
pvc vavle
all coolant hoses
fuel filter
mounts
ground straps
starter
alternator
drive belts
these are the thing that should be checked to make sure you dont need to do it later and have the engine almost brand new
water pump
timing belt
cam seal
main seal
rear main seal
oil and filter
coolant
oil for the transmission
thermostat
thing to check to see if it is needed
oil pan gasket
vavle cover gasket with spark plug tube gasket
clutch set (it 5spd)
axles or boots
spark plugs
wires
cap and rotor
pvc vavle
all coolant hoses
fuel filter
mounts
ground straps
starter
alternator
drive belts
these are the thing that should be checked to make sure you dont need to do it later and have the engine almost brand new
change
water pump (done)
timing belt (done)
cam seal (have)
main seal (have )
rear main seal (have)
oil and filter (ok)
coolant (yep)
oil for the transmission (ahhhhh)
thermostat (what if you just did that like a month ago?)
thing to check to see if it is needed
oil pan gasket (new thanks kunkel)
vavle cover gasket with spark plug tube gasket got that
clutch set (it 5spd) ( working on that i couldn't get it ordered till just now so it wont b here on time...doh!)
axles or boots (hmmmm that could be trouble)
spark plugs (that's fair)
wires (Hmmm)
cap and rotor (is squeaking bad?)
pvc vavle (i was wonderin about that. how do you know if it's broken?)
all coolant hoses (should be good seing as i just put in a new radiator)
fuel filter (got that- i figured it would be likely)
mounts
ground straps
starter
alternator (i have a rebuilt in there and another one just kickin it, poss for sale btw)
drive belts
these are the thing that should be checked to make sure you dont need to do it later and have the engine almost brand new
thanks for the checklist that'll make it much easier already.
are there any guesses as to how long this should take for a first time swap? and majority of parts hangin around?
1.8turbolsvtec: dude let me know if you can help i'm thinkin about heading up to where i'm gonna do the work after dinner tommorrow night to get things started as far as removal goes and marking everything. just drop me an e-mail or an im.
i'll post success/ failure story after later on too.
water pump (done)
timing belt (done)
cam seal (have)
main seal (have )
rear main seal (have)
oil and filter (ok)
coolant (yep)
oil for the transmission (ahhhhh)
thermostat (what if you just did that like a month ago?)
thing to check to see if it is needed
oil pan gasket (new thanks kunkel)
vavle cover gasket with spark plug tube gasket got that
clutch set (it 5spd) ( working on that i couldn't get it ordered till just now so it wont b here on time...doh!)
axles or boots (hmmmm that could be trouble)
spark plugs (that's fair)
wires (Hmmm)
cap and rotor (is squeaking bad?)
pvc vavle (i was wonderin about that. how do you know if it's broken?)
all coolant hoses (should be good seing as i just put in a new radiator)
fuel filter (got that- i figured it would be likely)
mounts
ground straps
starter
alternator (i have a rebuilt in there and another one just kickin it, poss for sale btw)
drive belts
these are the thing that should be checked to make sure you dont need to do it later and have the engine almost brand new
thanks for the checklist that'll make it much easier already.
are there any guesses as to how long this should take for a first time swap? and majority of parts hangin around?
1.8turbolsvtec: dude let me know if you can help i'm thinkin about heading up to where i'm gonna do the work after dinner tommorrow night to get things started as far as removal goes and marking everything. just drop me an e-mail or an im.
i'll post success/ failure story after later on too.
well i should be startnig on the swap in a few hours, just readin up some in the haynes manual b4 i get started. thanks for the help, hopefully there aren't any problems and i'm hopin i can do this w/o pullin the tranny. if there's anything else i should know feel free, even if i don't get the info it'll prob help someone.
okay, for all you guys that have said things like, "oh a d-d swap, that should only take a few hours", and "wow that should be cake, even if it's your first swap", yeah you're full of crap. i've now put in over 16 hrs in with help from two people for alot of that time and i just got the engine out and took a few things off of it. i brought the im home to swap all the stuff off of it to the new one.
i did however see some interesting stuff, when i drained my oil the flow out off the oilpan had a very noticable bright green streak in it, and my im has a nice little oil slick on it, and the no1 cylinder was doin something wrong cause the exhaust port was also covered in oil residue and sludge.
i spent a lot of time just trying to break the friggin transaxle loose from the hub, ended up breaking a socket and hitting the tabs out with a screwdriver and a 2lb maul. then i couldn't get the damping forks off of the shock absorber assy. then the control arm hit me in the face. but once we got the axles free the engine wasn't too bad to take out except my boss was trying to tell me to leave all sorts of stuff on the engine, allowing me a rare chance to be right about something. now it's still just slow cause i don't know what i'm doing.
so now i'm just tryin to git er done.
i did however see some interesting stuff, when i drained my oil the flow out off the oilpan had a very noticable bright green streak in it, and my im has a nice little oil slick on it, and the no1 cylinder was doin something wrong cause the exhaust port was also covered in oil residue and sludge.
i spent a lot of time just trying to break the friggin transaxle loose from the hub, ended up breaking a socket and hitting the tabs out with a screwdriver and a 2lb maul. then i couldn't get the damping forks off of the shock absorber assy. then the control arm hit me in the face. but once we got the axles free the engine wasn't too bad to take out except my boss was trying to tell me to leave all sorts of stuff on the engine, allowing me a rare chance to be right about something. now it's still just slow cause i don't know what i'm doing.
so now i'm just tryin to git er done.
lmao...take of axles, unplug wire harness, few hoses and misc. wires, mounts, pull motor out. Not as easy as it sounds, but should be done in a few hours. My first time was a few hours and before that the only thing I had dones was stuff like alternators, brakes, starters ect...Oh well, Good luck ne ways.
ok so i have another question, how do you get the clutch off/pressure plate off of the flywheel? it's attatch with some kinda crazy 14pt star lookin nut that i can't find any type of a driver to remove it with. and i don't want to just rip them off with pliers or anything if i won't be able to get them back on. so what is it and what do i use to get it off.
Use the 16-pt sockets and some air tools. You are probably using the 5-pt sockets. They will not fit. for the flywheel and impact will to wonders!
ok so the 12pt socket did the trick. the engine is now in the car and i've ended up with some extra hardware left, probly not a good thing but i'm pretty sure most of it is stuff that i had doubles of from the old engine. the only problems now are the random hose coming off of the im and going to nowhere, the complete absence of pressure in the clutch hydrolics, the broken purge control solenoid, and the fact that it just won't start. i'm guessin that it's throwin a code of some sort but i got it towed home now cause i'm goin to lbc, cali for the next week or so.
does anyone know if the purge control solenoid would prevent starting? or how i could establish at least some pressure in the clutch pedal? how about where that hose goes to, it comes off of the im toward the bumper and then passes through the im via some kind of a connector/nipple sort of thing, and out to somewhere unknown to me.
the help has been extremely useful, keep it comin. just gonna be pickin error codes for now (i think).
does anyone know if the purge control solenoid would prevent starting? or how i could establish at least some pressure in the clutch pedal? how about where that hose goes to, it comes off of the im toward the bumper and then passes through the im via some kind of a connector/nipple sort of thing, and out to somewhere unknown to me.
the help has been extremely useful, keep it comin. just gonna be pickin error codes for now (i think).
you got all the wiring connected, right? Plus see if you can get your hands on a helms. They are EXTREMELY helpful especially for somebody starting to work on cars like you. I hope this has been an education experience for you. I'm sure the next time will be a snap!
Double check...triple check...even up to quintiple check to make sure you didn't miss any hoses, connections, bolts ect.
Good luck!
Double check...triple check...even up to quintiple check to make sure you didn't miss any hoses, connections, bolts ect.Good luck!
i checked and re-checked everything just before i left for cali. all i came up with is the lack of a purge control solenoid, a hose to nowhere, and a few extra bolts that i cant find any holes to put into. which i think might actually be alright since i did take some off of the other engine hat i ended up already having on the new one. i can't get to it right now though but if tha solenoid isn't the prob, i'm gonna check the distributer, which i've been told might be out of timing. a helms would be nice, i've got a haynes but it's just about useless. way too vague for me.
tragic twist of irony... the clutch i ordered arrived the day after i got the engine in the car finnally! yeah that sucked so it's gonna be kickin in in my room with the springs for quite some time, till i feel like trying this again. i wish i would have just ordered it a day earlier! man i'm an idiot! oh well, the clutch on it right now looks alright so it'll just be kickin it for a while, at least now i have a spare just in case or whatever.
alrighty i'm back from cali now. had some time lookin at the car. rotated the distributor 180 and bam it starts, no prob. of course now i still have no pressure in the clutch. i'm hoping it's just cause there's not ebough fluid and not because my master cylinder is shot, or that the release fork is on wrong (man that would suck if i screwed that up when i swapped the tranny over.)
i found out that the hose i couldn't figure out is actually to the pcv valve. now i just have to figure out where it goes to still (can't find anythin to plug it into still)
just need to fix a hose and figure out how to get some pressure bhind the clutch and i'll be off to theparts shop again to return the cv boots. unless ofcourse i've got an f'd up fork on my clutch. if that's the case i'm pretty much screwed.
i found out that the hose i couldn't figure out is actually to the pcv valve. now i just have to figure out where it goes to still (can't find anythin to plug it into still)
just need to fix a hose and figure out how to get some pressure bhind the clutch and i'll be off to theparts shop again to return the cv boots. unless ofcourse i've got an f'd up fork on my clutch. if that's the case i'm pretty much screwed.


