Ok the idle is surging after it gets warm. Also it bucks when cruising or trying to take off slow about 1/8 throttle. The things I have checked.

Tps idle is .56 wot is 4.40
Have checked vacuum leaks with two cans of carb cleaner.
Bleed the coolant countless times.
I have bypass the thermal valve on bottom of tb.
Have changed the iacv with one off of my old motor.

Now when the motor warms up I read the the bottom hole in the tb should not have vacuum and it does. And if I plug the both holes the idle goes down and stays steady. Would hint iacv but have changed it with another and does the same thing. Is there anyway of checking the iacv?

I am running a b16 in a civic with the stock p28. Had a p72 that came with the b16 and when I hook up the 72 the surging slows down, but is still there. The 72 had a conversion harness to go from obd1 to obd0. The motor was converted to obd1...
This thing is killing me. Would some one help me out.

 

O.K. checked compression and it was 210, 208, 185, 195. Do you guys think that's to much variance?

 

That is quite a bit of variance, usually 10-15 psi is the limit I'd say. I've got a variance of 30 psi in one cylinder and am considering the engine f*cked.

 

Seems to hapen to alot of hondas, there is a geto fix I used on my ls
take a pop can cut a small square out of it pull the throtle body back
and cover the holes to the iacv tighten the throtle body down, the only
drawback is when it's cold it will idle really low but when warm drives
normal and no surging idle. The surging idle drove me crazy

 

So you think it could be the iacv? Those are pricey 118 at Honda.

 

No my guess is the fast idle sensor but didn't want to buy it to
just try it, the getto fix works

 

The titv I have bypassed. When the car warms up the suction from the hole on the bottom is suppossed to stop, and it is still there. Would you think there is something broke inside the intake?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95civicB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The titv I have bypassed. When the car warms up the suction from the hole on the bottom is suppossed to stop, and it is still there. Would you think there is something broke inside the intake?</TD></TR></TABLE>


No the fast idle vavle you can take the plate off there is going to be a white plastic diaphragm in there with notches on the sides take a screw driver turn it in (clockwise) til it stop put the plate back on and no surge .. that fast idle plate comes loose with the vibes of the motor then gets out oa range and does not work properly.


This fix should only take about 20min to do.

 

Yea, the motor came with that blocked. I put the one from my d motor and still surged. Then I took it off and was going to screw the diaphragm in and broke one screw off. So I put the block off plate back on and bypassed the hoses again.

But now theres no spark. When I did the compression test I did not take the ecu fuse out. Do you think this would fry my distributor? I wish I could just drive it ahhhh. Thanks for all the help guys..

 

A compression test would not fry to dizzy. If you are not getting spark. start with little and work your way up. take the cap off and make sure there is power going to the coil It will be marked with a + - use a test light if you have one or a volt meter there should be power then the key is on. if not check ALL fuses if there is get a Helms manual and do tests o ll the sensors in the dizzy

 

WOW I took off the cap, and at the bottom of it there were little chunks of plastic??? Should the rotor be screwed to the shaft? Well right now its not lol. I think the chunks came from the plastic cover under the cap. I dont have a volt meter right now so that will have to wait.

 

Ok found a test light well a rigged one. Well there is 12 volts "atleast enough to light up a little light" to the pos and neg . I am guessing some thing is shorted.