Scott_Tucker

Good job!

PyroProblem

Ive also had pretty good luck with sea-foam and especially GM top end/engine cleaner on quite a few different cars. Next car I do will be during an oil change so the seafoam will drain right out the oilpan as it seeps past the rings...
I think the longer you let it sit, the more effective itll be.

DCFIVER

We cant get the "good" GM top engine cleaner here anymore. Its not CARB legal. That **** was the best.

PyroProblem

The stuff in the metal can right?
Is it that much different than the new stuff? I mainly use it in fuel systems to clean out injectors and valves. The new stuff seems pretty effective to me too. Most customers notice an improvement in overall driveability. It was first suggested by some porsche engineers and Ive been sold on it since.

DCFIVER

The new top engine cleaner is good too. Just less concentrated. Our shop stocked up on it because there are a few TSB's issued by GM on using it for some drivability problems. We work on a lot of GM trucks (fleet Accounts)

Salami

Just put 3 oz MMO in each of my cylinders. Keeping my fingers crossed it works. Really don't have the time to tear into the motor change out the rings.

Atomic1

Do two treatments. It definitely worked for me.

vitamin_c95

this may be my next project. I have the same problem. Tired of adding oil between changes. Thanks for the info. Will post back with my results. How has yours been since last posting?

Salami

Should I notice any decrease in the smoke I see under hard acceleration? Should it be immediate or does it take some time to see a change? Or the smoke is not from burning oil?

Only have done one soak so far, I will try another on Wednesday.

Chiovnidca

Honda offers a top engine cleaner now. I dont know how good it is though, still have plenty of the gm stuff sitting on my bench.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Are any of you guys boosted?I have been having a oil problem in the #3 cylinder for months after my build and I just got the head back from the shop.I replaced everything just tto try to figure out whats going on.I am now afraid that the rings werent installed correctly.Everytime I remove the spark plug from that cylinder there is a small amount of oil on top of that piston.I am going to try the soak if anyone else hasnt had any issues on a boosted engine which I dont see why they would.

Atomic1

Not boosted here. I dont see what harm piston soaking would do on a boosted engine. As long as you verify there's no soak fluid left in the cylinder before turning it over with the spark plugs in you should be fine.

Yes you should see less smoke on acceleration. It should be immediate difference. If not, then they're either unstickable or you have other problems. If MMO doesnt work you may need to piston soak with something harsher like the top end cleaner or seafoam.

vitamin_c95

did my first soak. Gonna check it this morn and probably do another. Again thanks for the wealth of info everybody

vitamin_c95

so I checked in the morning. Middle two cylinders still had fluid, end two had drained. I added a lil more fluid to all and let it set til I got home in the afternoon. I started her up and she bellowed smoke. Smoked out my whole cul de sac. I let her idle 15 minutes then took her for a drive. I smoke screened my whole street. It cleared quickly after I drove. I will post back after I get some miles on her

Chiovnidca

Sounds like you did it right. :D Smoke em out!!! LOL

gill0607ek9

going to try this tommorow!!!!

MR.johnson

no and no.

TurboChurch

This was already cleared up by post 16, and yes I was mistaken with the Honda engine not having the crank in the oil like domestic cars.

However my statement above is correct for what is said, so yes and yes.
It just doesnt apply to a Honda in this case. Either way, I really dont care.

neverstop

I'm really glad I found this thread. Awesome. My ls vtec blows a pretty serious amount of oil out the exhaust when I beat on it that only gets worse the more rpm the motor turns. The crazy thing is that my ls vtec had compression 240 even across all cylinders and put down 177whp with stock gsr cams through full exhaust(on a happy dyno though) despite burning all this oil.

For $4 there really isn't much downside to doing this so I'm going to give it a try.

It is worth noting that some honda's burn oil because of crank case pressure too though, so I think people should be sure to put the honda nipples on the back of the block endyn style to a catch can before opening their motor up. worst case you just have a good catch can setup and best case it helps. in my case it didn't help but I'm glad I did it since it will only get more important the more power I put out.

My02accord

Not to throw this thread off track since I find it real interesting but since when does ANY 4 stroke 4 cycle car/truck engine's crank turn THROUGH the oil? Domestic? like what? None that I have ever seen or rebuilt, there is NO reason for it to even spin through the oil, the oil is pressurized through passageways INSIDE the crank so it can get to all the bearings, then it flings out and runs down into the oil pan. Sounds like someone is uneducated to me.....Guess you never heard what happens when you put in too much oil inside an oil pan?....it goes so high that the crank will THEN spin through oil thus aerating the crap out of the oil making it foam and where there is air in the oil (like those little lucas oil gear shelf demonstrations, the one with the lucas has tons of little air bubbles in it thats only with hand cranking too, just imagine an oil pump) and where there is air, there's no oil.....meaning more chances of the crank journal rubbing on a rod bearing and wiping it out. Not too come off harsh but just setting this straight so no one else gets a wrong idea how an engine works.

TurboChurch

Then maybe you should do some research. Start at about 1950 and work your way forward. Oil pumps and pressurized oil passages havent always been around. Briggs and Straton would be a good start for you. Then jump over to avaiation and stare at Lycoming for a bit, and then come on back to good ol' americana and look at Chevrolet back in the day ( yes it had an oil pump, but the crank cut through the oil.)

Atomic1

Let it lay. Start a new thread if you must debate this. Nobody is going to find your contributions under this thread title anyway.

neverstop

so I did this, used my mityvac to pull the leftover fluid in the cylinder, interesting that only one of the pistons held oil and the others drained out past the rings pretty quickly....

anyway, it DID help a bit but far from fixed my smoking issues when in vtec. I'm going to try it again just for kicks before I change my oil next time and will report back. My hopes aren't real high but if I can bring this motor back that would be really cool.

Atomic1

Here's an interesting article that talks about the details of cylinder honing and how it relates to ring wear.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...finishing.aspx

basically the valleys created by the honing process act as reservoirs to lubricate the rings as they pass by eliminating wear.

Ci-v-iC

Anybody else with MMO treatment success?

Where do you buy it?