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Old Jan 5, 2002 | 04:00 PM
  #1  
tinkerbell's Avatar
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Default stroking it...

ive got a spare B16A block and head and want to make it bigger.

can i use a B18C bottom end (crank rods and pistons) to make it bigger?

what other options are there?

thanks,

t..
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Old Jan 5, 2002 | 04:54 PM
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From: clearwater, florida, united states
Default Re: stroking it... (tinkerbell)

you can use the b16a rods and the 87mm gsr crank with the custom stroker toda pistons and run it with that.


[Modified by rainforest, 2:52 AM 1/6/2002]
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Old Jan 5, 2002 | 05:59 PM
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Default Re: stroking it... (rainforest)

the GSR = B18C right?

why the custom pistons? what will C/R be? is it worth it (more tourque?) can i use my PR3 head on a B18C block?

it says the R/S ratio gets lowered to 1.54 - what effect will this create?

ta,

t..
PS i recognise your sig(and others in this forum) from the endyn board, why is it(the board) not the way it was?
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Old Jan 6, 2002 | 06:51 AM
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Default Re: stroking it... (tinkerbell)

do lots of research, this is possible and requires some money because things u will need is resleeving and custom pistons an rods need to changed also to accomodate the gsr crank. compression will be determined by your piston and rod ratio of 1.54 is the same as integras. yes you can use your pr3 head on your b18c. make sure if you do go biggerbore and resleeve the block don't forget about the head, youll need headwork otherwise the stock head will increase the compression ratio because you haven't deshrouded the head to accomodate the overbore of the block. Check out hybrid's site they have a forum going about an ls block with an older prelude si crank (b21a) making it a 2.2litre and a rod ratio of 1.44. sounds interesting...to say the least.
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Old Jan 6, 2002 | 08:03 AM
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Default Re: stroking it... (superflea)

if you use a b18c crank in a b16a block, you need to have pistons with the wrist pin located 7mm higher than stock to accomodate for the 7mm difference in deck height that the b18c has over the b16a, or you'll drive the pistons into the head. you also need rods the same width as the b18c stockers, which are 1.5mm thinner than the b16a/b17a rods; honda did this to make the crank stronger to handle higher revs in vtec with a longer rod:stroke ratio (1.58 gsr/itr vs. 1.74 b16a).
you can stroke a b20b/z to 2.2L with the prelude b20a/b21a 95mm crank, but with less than a 1.5 rod:stroke ratio, good luck hitting vtec with the high friction from sideloading, and if you do manage, kiss longevity g'bye- only (a little) time before you shove a rod through the side of the block.
i had a prelude with a b20a; the bores got so distorted it burned 1qt of oil per tank of fuel, and ran like **** above 4k rpm. the prelude b21a must have been worse, as sideloading increases in directly proportion to bore diameter when the rod:stroke ratio is constant (both were 1.49:1; b20a was 81mm bore, same block as a b18a, b21a was 83mm bore).
when honda made the b18c, they reduced the displacement from 1834cc to 1797cc by using the 87.2mm crank vs. the 89mm b18a/b (ls/gs/rs) crank to reduce sideloading- r:s ratio went from 1.54:1 in b18a/b to 1.58:1 in b18c.
ls/vtecs, crvtecs, and other non-stock vtec setups can be made to run as well and as long as some of the stock setups if the r:s is not too extreme, and wrist pins are fully floated to reduce sideloading/friction. it also helps to use lighter, aftermarket rods and pistons, and keep the RPM appropriate; the b18c also has under-piston oil sprayers to help cooling for lengthy high rpm use (autocross, roadracing). these can be installed in non-vtec blocks, as can the oil cooler, and maincap girdle, which also helps at high rpm. (you also need the vtec oil pump, pan, and pickup to properly lube the head, or b'bye vtec.) you can post the tops of the cylinders to prevent excessive bore distortion, and GoldenEagle Mfg. makes really great resleeves which can handle much abuse (as vs. stock). also, never use blockguard or resleeves which close the deck; honda made their blocks open-deck for cooling purposes, and stock sleeves (at least) often crack at the top with blockguard in, and the cracks spread down. as for Darton or other resleeves which close the deck, the sleeves can handle the heat, but the engine will run hotter and place more thermal stress on other components which were not made to run in that environment, as the water jacket, radiator, and other cooling components were made for the open-deck setup.
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Old Jan 6, 2002 | 10:25 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: stroking it... (slofu)

excellent reply to much typing for me but hey..
slofu.. you have any experience with those open deck darton sleeves? There is a pic here from the forced injection forum.

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Old Jan 6, 2002 | 05:23 PM
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Default Re: stroking it... (slofu)

i guess that it is much more complicated than changing a crankshaft and some rods then.

i guess a bit more expensive too?

plus, i like an engine i know i can rev (ie high R/S ratio i guess...)

ok then, would i get more benifits from higher compression rather than increased displacement eg CTR pistons?

would these increase output much by themselves?

im just throwing some ideas round at this stage...

t..
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Old Jan 6, 2002 | 08:35 PM
  #8  
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Default Re: stroking it... (tranquility)

why did this board automatically log me on as tranquility? hmmm, its my work computer, so must have some old cookies in it...from H&A.net

oh well, we are one and the same
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Old Jan 6, 2002 | 09:59 PM
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Default Re: stroking it... (superflea)

Check out hybrid's site they have a forum going about an ls block with an older prelude si crank (b21a) making it a 2.2litre and a rod ratio of 1.44. sounds interesting...to say the least.
Which hybrid site are you referring to? Honda Hybrid? You wouldn't happen to have the link to the post?
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Old Jan 7, 2002 | 08:56 AM
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Default Re: stroking it... (KS-R)

http://www.hybridforum.net/showthrea...sb=5&o=2&part=
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