strength of the b20b block?
i was evaluating an eg honda civic with a b16a/b20b frank yesterday with some friends who have been building honda race cars & engines for some 18 years now. they claim that the stock b20b block sleeves are weak and are a breaking point once u cross 7500rpm and that im looking for more headache out of the buy than anything unless it was rebuilt with aftermarket sleeves, pistons, rods & bearings,etc.
anyone have experiences with this?
anyone have experiences with this?
not so much the sleeves with the rev limit. although the sleeves are quite thin, they wont hold much boost when turbo'd or high compression all motor even. a lot of people resleeve em' although that goes for just about any motor. ha.
its funny though, i had a B20B i purchased from a buddy, just to see how much it could really take, borrowed my buddies chipped LS ecu, (to eliminate rev limiter) and slammed it with a 75 shot on it and ran the **** out of it, took it to the track for S&G. ran 13-0 consistent all night about 10 passes. left that night went out to beat on all the ricers that hang out on our local "strip" played around with this STI for about 5 mins lost to him light to light about 3 times, so i pulled over changed the jets with out knowing the shot size(come to find out later it was about a 175 shot) went back out to hunt his *** down, pounded the $hi+ out him hard, the car redlined the car at about 9k OOOOPS. but it took all that and still sort of ran, well on 2 cylinders while i started my hike home to rip it out. just a story i thought i would share about my old B20B.
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i think it all depends on your tune. my old engine was a b20 before i had to change it for CA emissions laws. LOOONG story but when i was driving it across country i was pushing 10 LBS of boost (it had a fully built up bottom end) and on this one area in texas i was at 8k RPMs in 5th gear for about 40 miles while running from a tornado. broke apart the engine when i got to cali (was about 2.6k miles across country) and my engine was just fine. was running 10:1 compression. no clue how fast i was going, my speedometer got messed up before that and showed me going 30 MPH faster than i really was so needless to say it was showing above 140.
i think it all depends on your tune. my old engine was a b20 before i had to change it for CA emissions laws. LOOONG story but when i was driving it across country i was pushing 10 LBS of boost (it had a fully built up bottom end) and on this one area in texas i was at 8k RPMs in 5th gear for about 40 miles while running from a tornado. broke apart the engine when i got to cali (was about 2.6k miles across country) and my engine was just fine. was running 10:1 compression. no clue how fast i was going, my speedometer got messed up before that and showed me going 30 MPH faster than i really was so needless to say it was showing above 140.
hmmmm how much would it cost to rebuild and re-sleeve this block with aftermarket sleeves, pistons, rods, bearings + bolts?
i am thinking about buying the car and pulling the block to rebuild it. the only thing thats stopping me from buying the car is the fact that it got a little hit on the front right side corner and the straightener didnt do much of a good job bringing it back 100% straight.
i think im gonna take some pics of it all and post it up so yall can take a lok and criticise, would that be cool?
cause i do like the idea of the b16a/b20 frank instead of a more expensive K swap, ive been told by the same ppl it makes mad power. but i want it reliable for everyday driving, cause i do not want to have to granny shift at 7000rpm if the engine can make power up to 9000rpm, or b racing someone and ooopse there goes my block, thats just gay !!! i love my high reving motors !!
and is it possible to attain the 10:1CR with this frank on stock b20 pistons?
i wouldnt cross 10:1cr cause of the gas we get here which is 95octane max.
i am thinking about buying the car and pulling the block to rebuild it. the only thing thats stopping me from buying the car is the fact that it got a little hit on the front right side corner and the straightener didnt do much of a good job bringing it back 100% straight.
i think im gonna take some pics of it all and post it up so yall can take a lok and criticise, would that be cool?
cause i do like the idea of the b16a/b20 frank instead of a more expensive K swap, ive been told by the same ppl it makes mad power. but i want it reliable for everyday driving, cause i do not want to have to granny shift at 7000rpm if the engine can make power up to 9000rpm, or b racing someone and ooopse there goes my block, thats just gay !!! i love my high reving motors !!
and is it possible to attain the 10:1CR with this frank on stock b20 pistons?
i wouldnt cross 10:1cr cause of the gas we get here which is 95octane max.
if u do the work yourself not too bad price wise. all new parts:
pistons about 500ish
rods 300ish
sleeves about 600
ARP bolts about 300
so about 1700 or so before labor etc
pistons about 500ish
rods 300ish
sleeves about 600
ARP bolts about 300
so about 1700 or so before labor etc
hmmmm how much would it cost to rebuild and re-sleeve this block with aftermarket sleeves, pistons, rods, bearings + bolts?
i am thinking about buying the car and pulling the block to rebuild it. the only thing thats stopping me from buying the car is the fact that it got a little hit on the front right side corner and the straightener didnt do much of a good job bringing it back 100% straight.
i think im gonna take some pics of it all and post it up so yall can take a lok and criticise, would that be cool?
cause i do like the idea of the b16a/b20 frank instead of a more expensive K swap, ive been told by the same ppl it makes mad power. but i want it reliable for everyday driving, cause i do not want to have to granny shift at 7000rpm if the engine can make power up to 9000rpm, or b racing someone and ooopse there goes my block, thats just gay !!! i love my high reving motors !!
and is it possible to attain the 10:1CR with this frank on stock b20 pistons?
i wouldnt cross 10:1cr cause of the gas we get here which is 95octane max.
i am thinking about buying the car and pulling the block to rebuild it. the only thing thats stopping me from buying the car is the fact that it got a little hit on the front right side corner and the straightener didnt do much of a good job bringing it back 100% straight.
i think im gonna take some pics of it all and post it up so yall can take a lok and criticise, would that be cool?
cause i do like the idea of the b16a/b20 frank instead of a more expensive K swap, ive been told by the same ppl it makes mad power. but i want it reliable for everyday driving, cause i do not want to have to granny shift at 7000rpm if the engine can make power up to 9000rpm, or b racing someone and ooopse there goes my block, thats just gay !!! i love my high reving motors !!
and is it possible to attain the 10:1CR with this frank on stock b20 pistons?
i wouldnt cross 10:1cr cause of the gas we get here which is 95octane max.
dont know who told you $600.00 for sleeving but they were wrong most shops will not even sleeve a b20 or if they do they say no warranty. we do sleeve then and also give them same warranty as all our sleeves but its more around $1010.00 for sleeving a b20
wow back from the dead not sure why your posting on a 7 month old post but as we said above it is a known fact that the b20 sleeves are week a lot weaker then a b18 and that has nothing to do with the thickness of the sleeve it has to do with the way they are made
i have a b20b non vtec in my da9 183whp stock bottom end head work only ported and polished new valves springs retainers ect. running with toda vtec killer cam shafts and toda cam gears havent had problems with it yet i redline 8k
The b20 sleeves r weak cause they ride off the walls together for as the others have there own sleeve and cast. Look at them side fom side you will see a major difference in the decks.
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