sup guys, , i think my starter is gone b/c when i got to start the car all it does is click if that. other times it just doesn't do anything. I think all the grounds are ok, never really had a problem with them b4. But anyways i was just wondering if there is any other way i can get it started so that i can drive it from my parking lot to my friends house where i can replace my old starter, or maybe get ie recoiled. I know push starting is one option, I tried tapping the starter to work. that doesn't work... any other ideas???
thanx greg

 

Put it in 1st gear or R, release the parking break, and try to rock it back and forth while trying to crank it. Worth a shot.

 

I remember when my starter went out for a week - i had to push start that thing everywhere - by my self! and when i was pumping gas i just left the car running lol it was kinda fun but also sad...

sorry no help, but i dont know any other way..

 

lol, thanx a lot... how do i push start. any techniques or tricks i should know?

 

Easiest is R, but it depends if car is up or downhill. Basically in R or 2, get it rolling 5-15 MPH, make sure clutch is in and parking brake off, then when you have some momentum, pop the clutch and give it gas if you need to. Don't forget to ush clutch back in when it starts.

 

You turn the key and all you hear is a click.. To me, that CLICK sounds like it could be the one from the Starter Solenoid.. And since there's a click, I can assume that you've got power from the Ignition Switch to the Starter Solenoid's Pull In and Hold In Coils.. It also leads me to assume that your Starter is Grounded somewhat because the Pull In Coil was able to energize and help pull the Plunger back, which is a good thing.. And since it's just one click that you heard and not a bunch of chatters, I can also assume that your Starter Solenoid is Grounded properly because your Hold In Coil uses the case/bracket as a Ground..

And since it just CLICKS, I would move onto testing the Battery.. But since I'm the only that seems to properly check a Battery, you can skip that.. Unless you know how to properly test it with a Open Circuit Voltage Test and/or Specific Gravity Test, 3 Minute Charge Test, and a Battery Load Test.. But if you want to do that and don't know how you can look for one of many posts on how to perform these tests or bring the Battery to your local AutoZone or whatever's around and have them test it for you..

Enough of that.. Here's what I'd do if I knew that the Battery was still good..
-- But before doing any of this, always check your wires and make sure that they're not loose or corroded at the Battery, Starter Solenoid, or Starter... And most of all, BE CAREFUL..

1.. Open Circuit Voltage Test the Battery to know how much Voltage is left in it.. You'll need, I believe, at least 11.8V to crank it over.... But I could be wrong..
2.. Go to the B Terminal on the Starter Solenoid and check the Voltage there while someone else is cranking.. It's the terminal with the big cable coming from the Battery.. You should have something higher than 9.6V.... That's the minimum.. It would be better if it were above 10V...
3.. Go to the M Terminal on the Starter Solenoid and check the Voltage there while someone else is cranking.. It's the other terminal with a big cable...
4.. Then compare the two readings and there should be no more than a two tenths of a volt drop across the Solenoid (.2V)..

--- For the Tech, Voltage Drop the Starter Solenoid and you'll probably find Excessive Resistance there..

And since I'm assuming that your problem is there, I'll end this here.. Hope that helps a little..

But then again, that's just what I think.. Whatever you decide to do, be careful and Good Luck..

 

than alot PnX-R, i doubt its the battery though b/c i received a boost and the car still would start, no clicking, only 1 click sometimes....

 

Let me try and explain why a Battery would be one of my first checks..

You said that when you turn the key, all you get is one CLICK.. And sometimes if you keep on trying it, it won't even CLICK.. Well that's easy to explain.

The Click, I'm pretty sure, is from the Starter Solenoid's Pull In and Hold In Coils generating a Magnetic Field to pull in and hold in the Plunger which has a Disc on it.. That Disc then comes in contact with the B and M Terminals inside of Solenoid.. Then as that happens, the Starter will draw whatever Amperage it needs from the Battery through the Solenoid..

So if you've got a weak Battery (just because it's got 12.6V or higher, doesn't mean it's good), the Starter will draw it's 125 Amps (example from my 1994 GSR at room temperature) to create a Magnetic Field in the Pole Pieces and the Armature.. Then that Magnetic Field is used to turn the Armature which will turn the Starter Drive and put it in Mesh with the Flywheel.. And as the Starter is trying to pull that High Amperage from the Battery, if the Active Material in the Battery used up, it won't be able to give the Starter the amount of Amperage it needs.. Thus you get the One Click and sometimes a No Click situation..

That's why I would do Voltage Drop across the Starter Solenoid.. It would tell me whether or not the Battery and Starter Solenoid are good or not..

But let's say that you've proven the Battery and Starter Solenoid to be Good.. And maybe it's an intermittenet problem.. You can try giving your Starter a good blow with a hammer and it could possibly move the Brushes a little bit on to the Commutator Bars and give the Armature the current it needs..

But like I said before.. That's just what I think.. Good Luck..

 

Get your starter fixed. Push starting is ridiculous.

 

check ur contacts on the starter .......clean them if its dirty...and hope that works

 

Tell me about it!

i didnt wanna read all that he wrote up there so i just tell you my way..

1-Turn Key to "ON" position (damn friend didnt do it so we ended up tryin like 6 times before i jumped in the car and realized the car wasnt on!)
2-put car in neutrel with e-brake off
3-jump out and start pushing as fast as you can go (push at the driverside a-piller with door open, if your by yourself)
4-once you cant go any faster jump in the car and -A) STEP ON CLUTCH B)PUT IN FIRST or SECOND (or reverse if your goin backwards) C)STEP ON GAS a little AND DROP CLUTCH! car will slow then speed up because your steping on the gas! When you first feel the car start to speed.. D) STEP ON CLUTCH and HOLD GAS UNTIL ENGINE IS FULLY STARTED - about a half a second... ..have fun!

 

dont really think it is wise to have the 'controller/driver' out of the car.

i have seen $10k damage done when the guy triped over and the door slamed shut and the car kept rolling into two other cars...

(no-one wanted to be a hero and stand in front to stop it...)

but the risk is yours...

t..

 

hit the starter with a metal pole and it should start up

 

^^^ werd. Its under $2 from Honda for replacement copper starter contacts. Try that first as it is very pocketbook friendly.

 

Umm.. if your on a hill thats steep enough to make you car roll fast enough to possibly cause $10k worth of damage then i dont think you have to get out of the car...
..just drop the e-brake and roll on...
AIGHT!!! ..people these days.. always out to get someone!

 

i didnt say anything about a hill?!

with 2 guys pushing "as fast as you can go" 10mph is pretty hard to stop when teh guy who is meant to be near the brake is sprawled flat on the ground watching his car roll into two other cars...

sorry, roll into the sides of two cars --> complete respray on both plus panel work (oh, and 10 grand AUD = 5 grand USD - sorry).

but i not out to get you man.

if someone came back and said "but 10K2HVN said to do it" - how would you feel?!?

im just looking out for everyone...

t..