also posted this in hybrid need help asap..

Not new to swaps, but new to obd2/obd1. Anyhow just finished putting everything back together and now the problems. First time i started the car was using the P28ecu started fine no cel's..... Now i switched out the P28ecu and put in the P72 obd1 ecu and i get a solid cel.
tried jumping the ecu for codes but the cel stays solid so i unhooked the battery to try and reset the ecu then tried it again still solid cel! the car starts fine. Check all wiring, plugs and ground all seem to be connected. So i drove the car for a couple of mins maybe something will show. Car studders when it hits 3000rpm and no power. Tried checking for codes but i still got a solid cel.

Jdm b18c obd2 with stock si obd1 harness everything stock except blox manifold+hondata gasket.

my guess is bad ecu? P72 socketed ecu with no chip, running off stock chip. Shop i baught it from assured me that it was checked and good.

Anyone have any idea why i would get a solid cel?

 

help...... searched allready.... what else would cause a solid cel if its not a bad ecu??????

 

swap the ECU into another OBD-I GSR, see what happens. Sounds like the ECU is screwed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notstock93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like the ECU is screwed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your ecu is fubar. The 3000 rpm rev limit is the limp mode, running off the backup chip in the ecu. Quit driving on that ecu, it is trash. If it's chipped, try putting the stock chip back in it.

 

the ecu is not chiped its just socketed ready for a chip thus running off the stock chip..... the P28 ecu had no codes when i started it up with it ... ill see if i can find a buddy with a gsr and hook it up to his....... in the mean time is there any wiring that i may have missed using my sohc engine harness into the b18c? as far as i kno all the wires are used up and i don't see how the ecu may have short circuted.... thanks for the feed backs any other suggestions would help.........

 

It may have been damaged when the socket was put in. Check for bent or broken pins on the chip as well, or a bad solder connection. Honda ecus are soldered on both sides of the board, so it's important to have a good joint.

 

sux if its the ecu because i baught it from Eurospeed in Raleigh and they told me its been tested before and after being socketed so i'm kinda stumped on this one.. any other reasons why ecu would give a solid cel if it's not a bad ecu? I'm getting the P28 chipped monday but if its the swap shorting out my ecu then i need to solve this problem first before i throw in a chipped one just for it to get shorted aswell

 

from what i gathered a solid cel = bad ecu? ya or na?

 

solid cel= harware problem.

you say its running out of the stock mcu, there is no chip in the socket? did you cut J-1?

 

yes the J1 jumper is cut...... I started the swap with my stock p28 ecu just because it was there and it stared fine with no cel....... then i switched it out to my P72 thats been socketed but no chip and now i can't trouble shoot to see what cel im getting.... turn to the on position to where all the lights come on and the cel does not dissappear, crank the car and it pops up after 3 sec's or so. It would idle normal around 1000rpm it would studder once every 5mins or so at idle ... took it for a spin and it runs just shitty at 3k it would studder limp mode i guess.... not driving the car now untill i find out what other reasons why i would have a solid cel "If the ecu is not bad"

Anyone see any problems if i throw my P28 back in and run it for a few mins to see if its the ecu thats bad? And if i get no solid cel that would tell me i got a fuked P72 right

would there be any burn fuses i should look at that would cause a solid cel aswell?


Modified by spooned out at 5:24 PM 3/19/2005


Modified by spooned out at 5:24 PM 3/19/2005

 

if you turn the ig. to ON position and the cel does not hsow up its not a harware problem.
if as soon as you turn the ig. on the cel pops up then its hardware

 

yes the cel pops up in the on position stays on and does not dissappear then crank the car on and it pops up afterwards couple secs....... jumped for codes but all i get is solid cel.... as you stated hardware problem meaning my ecu is probably JACKED... I want to make sure its not a jacked ecu before i confront the shop telling them they sold me a bad socketed ecu..

can i run my P28 to see if i get a solid cel as comparison? i knoe its different but a solid cel would atleast tell me its not the ecu and maybe its wiring somewhere?


Modified by spooned out at 6:05 PM 3/19/2005

 

I got the same problem, haven't figured it out yet. Swapped out my injectors from stock to DSM 450's, added the resistor box, put in my chipped p28 and well now I got a solid CEL as well.

Put back the stock p28 ecu, and now still have a solid CEL, what all could be the problem? No way both ECU's are bad because I was just driving on the stock p28 yesterday prior to us installing the injectors?

Any info would be great . . . car feels like it's hitting rev limiter when u give it gas, or maybe running on 3 cylinders, but we know it's running on all 4.

Car runs pig *** rich which I guess could be a problem . . . . . gota keep your foot on the gas to keep the car alive, and my vacuum gauge instead of reading around 22-22 it's reading 10 and even if I let off the gas to let it die out it only goes to about 12 so there is a vacuum issue some place some way some how.

Any suggestions?

Aorry to jack your thread, just didn't wana get flamed for starting another of the same kind of thread

 

yeah this solid cel sucks since no way for me to check it..... im sent out my P28 ecu to get it chipped so ill see what happens when i get it back and throw it in.... hopefully ill get no cel (crossing fingers) but if it does get a solid cel then i gotta start checking other stuff...... just need some input on where to look first...... sorry haven't solved mine yet