hey everyone, problem is, I keep smashing bearings, I have a stock z6 on 7psi w/dsm 450's, and a chrome basemap, the basemap is not that good im sure so I did not whatsoever beat on the car, I only actually got into boost a few times (3psi or so) and only took it above 3500rpm's maybe 3 times in the few weeks I drove it, waiting to get it tuned, well I pulled the pan off and the rod bearing in #2 is all mushroomed out the sides of the rod journal like detonation, but I had the timing extra retarded because I didnt want detonation, it looks like I can slide a new bearing in there and torque it down and be okay, the crank looks okay, but I want to know what other people are running:

~What oil should I run on a stock motor, boosted?
~Should I run the full 16 degrees of base ignition timing?
~What parts of the oil channels are unfiltered and have bearing debris in it? and what should I use to clean it out?

how important is it to clean all the debris out and I really need to know where all to clean out! thanks! ill post pics of the bearing and **** later tonight.
pics of the bearing:




Modified by Slow Jdm EG6 at 9:25 PM 7/13/2006


Modified by Slow Jdm EG6 at 9:26 PM 7/13/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow Jdm EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
~What oil should I run on a stock motor, boosted?
~Should I run the full 16 degrees of base ignition timing?
~What parts of the oil channels are unfiltered and have bearing debris in it? and what should I use to clean it out?

how important is it to clean all the debris out

</TD></TR></TABLE>

1.) You can run regular dinosaur oil or synthetic. Personal choice is Amsoil synthetic.

2.) Your timing is going to be dependant on how much boost you are running and how much timing is advancing under boost. What are you using to tune?

3.) Oil cyles all throughout your engine. Cut open your oil filter and see if there is metal in it. If there is, hopefully it caught it all and it's not all up in the top end of the engine. If there is no metal in there, I'd be looking at taking the engine apart for a hot tank cleaning.

4.) It is EXTREMELY important to get the metal debris out of there. The smallest metal shavings can cause catastrophe.

Also, just because the crack journals "look" ok, doesn't mean they are withing spec. You MUST put a micrometer on it to find out for sure. Engine building isn't easy, cheap or quick.

Best of luck to you.

 

those look like spun rod bearings to me....i would be checking tolerances very carefully with the new bearings, your rods and crank....