Slight rust in cylinders
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From: Eindhoven, Netherlands
I started getting ready to put my head back on, and I noticed rust starting to develop towards the top inch of the cylinder walls
Should I scotch-brite them? Can I just wipe them down and call it a day? Should I just pretend I never saw anything?
Or, do I have to rehone the cylinders or something terrible like that?
Should I scotch-brite them? Can I just wipe them down and call it a day? Should I just pretend I never saw anything?
Or, do I have to rehone the cylinders or something terrible like that?
It would depend on the amount and penetration of the rust.If it's surface rust and wipes away with wd40 and very fine scotch brite go ahead and put the head on .But if it doesn't clear up you'll have to get a slight hone.
Try cleaning it up with wd40, as suggested above. Get the cylinders honed anyway. I would think the rust would come off. But, if it is really bad, have the cylinders overbored and use overbored pistons.
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From: Eindhoven, Netherlands
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeerMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try cleaning it up with wd40, as suggested above. Get the cylinders honed anyway. I would think the rust would come off. But, if it is really bad, have the cylinders overbored and use overbored pistons. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the thing, I just wanted to fix my head. I was hoping to avoid touching the bottom end....getting the cylinders honed is not something that will take a couple minutes...
I guess I'll try the WD-40 and see how it looks. If there's still a crosshatch pattern I'll just grab a
and call it a day. If not, then I'll be pissed.
That's the thing, I just wanted to fix my head. I was hoping to avoid touching the bottom end....getting the cylinders honed is not something that will take a couple minutes...
I guess I'll try the WD-40 and see how it looks. If there's still a crosshatch pattern I'll just grab a
and call it a day. If not, then I'll be pissed.
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From: Eindhoven, Netherlands
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it above where the rings will go to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. The rings would touch the rust if I was to turn the motor.
No. The rings would touch the rust if I was to turn the motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeerMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But, if it is really bad, have the cylinders overbored and use overbored pistons. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The guy just got his head redone. I'm sure there isnt any deep rust that would require all that. Maybe if he had the car outside in the rain with the hood open for a few weeks?
Get some emery cloth and clean then up with that.
-Ace
The guy just got his head redone. I'm sure there isnt any deep rust that would require all that. Maybe if he had the car outside in the rain with the hood open for a few weeks?
Get some emery cloth and clean then up with that.
-Ace
Did you leave the metal exposed to open air? If it stays exposed to open air/elements, surface rust will eventually form, especially if it was just re-honed/bored. I'd say just clean it with solvent, or apply a thin coat of motor oil, and carry on.
If its deep rust, then you got a problem.
If its deep rust, then you got a problem.
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I coated everything with oil and put a paper towel over it, then closed the hood. Maybe I didn't actually coat it with oil but just think I did
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