atanatas

This will be a long terms project as a lot of research had to be done, before step on the wrong side of the pavement.
Introduction.
The car is a 1998 Civic Aerodeck / Euro Estate.
Bought the car because of the excelent feel I had when i sat for the first time in it, back in 2008.
confy and robust, responsive steering, quite the same I had everytime had to drive the 1995 Legend of the boss.
First trip was about 1000km in a roll with a stop only te refuell I think once only. Was delighted, Confortable seats, great economy 640km run, Big trunk for such a small car, The only bodering was the power, it simply needed more!
Was powered with D14 auto. In Spain where I lived at the moment was an exotic car, In dealership told only 4 Aerodeck were sold for Central (Madrid) area in the years fo production, and this one was the only one white!
If I love white? Another reason to keep it. All my gadgets are white, cellphone, notebook, bikes, everything owns me is white!
The power, just couldnt stand it, had to press the pedal to the metal, trany pushing the engine above 6k and still overtaking was an extreme manouver.
At the moment the daily was a Honda Varadero XL125 rebored to 400cc so feel when overtaking with the bike was uncomparable to the Civic. Even the bike didnīt have capability to run above 160km because of the geraing, overtaking was simple twist of a wrist an go.
whatever the pleasure the small 2 wheel fellow gave me, I had reconcidered keeping it after running outside of the track while was checking to buy a CBR1000.
So sold the bike and got an B18C4 complete swap from a wreck (the US B18C1).

3 days later was on the street with no future, huge engine in the back yard, and few spare bucks left for beer in bad days.
After couple of beerscans off my future, In the next morning, walked out the Veranda and saw this, yawning was the best option for such headache, but instead I re-beer-scaned the situation.


The swap was made in less than a week, will spare the engine restoration process as to many bears were crunmbling over my head, and cant fint any caught by picture moment.
First the breaks, whatever powder you leave behind, you need to stop same way or even better.
Fronts 280mm rotors from UK MG ZS 180cv, optionally but I havent tried use WV Corrado 280mm 4x100 rotors.

Rears 260mm UK MG ZS 180cv, or again WV Corrado 260mm 4x100 rotors.

Front calipers from the same car, havent be abble to find, you can source DC ITR, Accord, Prelude, all these fit.
Calipers,
Front not quite sure what Iīve purchase at the time, in the scrapyard were marked for CIVIC 8th gen.
Rears 2002 Civic,
Funny thing is everytime I went to exchange the pads, was given a diferent car and model these came out of. fronts from an Insight, rears from something do not have a clue this car or model existed as a brand.
Whatever I will be changing the whole caliper sets for a CRV 2004/5 depending what I can source for the right cash.
The reason is I am willing to make the VSA/TC/ABS thing in newer CRVīs work with an ECU that can run B18 engine.
Will keep it quiet for now, as this demand further explication later on.
Prelude 1" Master cilinder to feed bigger calipers, Perfect stock sizing for 1300kg car on a 1160 kg Civic.




Awesome, first try (witht the d14 in) from 100 to 0km 33ish meeters.

Next B18 in the shell,

There is tonīs of writing on how to, so Iīl save it you.
However, as per the manual you insert the engine inside the car. Well I didnīt wanted to damage the AC Components, so did it the oposite way.
Lift car, take out old engine,

Slide new engine-tranny under car



lay car over,

By the way, Donīt forget to Clean!

lift engine to exact position torque bolts,






plug cables.







While no engine, Install Autocruise pedals from US D15ish 5th Gen Civic,

Couldnīt find picture of the Autocruise Motor unit but is quite straight forward, Mounting bracket of the Autocruise motor fits on existing drills in the left shock tower.
Only needed to rewire according the manual drill a hole in the hull (Strange was never an option for EU but there is a flat space centre mark on the firellaw wher to drill) and done.
Edit:
You need to pass 2 cables to the controls on the steering wheel, and 2 cables to back side of conector on steering column. I remebrer soldering but donīt pay attention, that was 7 years ago
Also the on/off switch you can wire extra AC button to turn on the Autocruise, bypass the break lights and the clutch pedal switches.

I had this spare DVD unit and a miror cam, so few cables more and parking camera shows the way when you park!




I liked European style wipers. Couldnt find cheap replacement for the broken rear so...
Fiat Punto whole wiper with arm cost me 3€, even thou I liked more the Corolla 2006 wipers, ware about the 40ish, not an option at the moment.
Edit:
I will be probali sourcing BMW 1serie rear soon. So slick almost sexy.

Fronts from Peugeot or Citroen reworked, two lefts or 2 rights, cant really remember but were 10€ the combo.


​Long story short, I lived in a small village in the mountain area so wanted more AWD thing. But cash quickly runned out, no way to stand there and had to go back to safety in Homeland.

Pictures from the departure day 11/8/2009




oh yeah, the roof bars were from a CRV, was planning to have them Crom finished, but at the end kept with the more Black and White less Chrome vision.





Fellow Spain, good thing about leaving was the no go for less than 1000€ registration tax of the swapped engine, nothing holds me there, had a way out so rent away.

In Bulgaria,
Discovered the beautifull side of summer 30 degrees on a lonly desert beach but no way to get there,
thanks to the LSD in the gearbox runned out of few sandpockets but it wasnīt enough yet.
I need more, especially when the last few winters streets were not cleaned at all and was working on 25km long way up-hill!

So going 4wd
As a precaution most of the components used must be from a stock vehicle, preferably Honda. If a part is not OEM Honda, Source in other brands. and when not possible last resource will be fabrication.
It has quite simple explanation, OEM replacement is always cheaper than custom fab, takes less to fix than any other option, Fail of critical OEM component will be rather exception, as designed to work under the given conditions. Finally less complications for the gray matter carrier.
The budget, this is a topic out of the equation as far most of the spences were made long time a go and no way to describe.
Technicalities on how I make things work, are rather orthodox so on unusual approach to each step to be taken slowly.

The usual components,
SBXM tranny CRV, Swap gears and final drive from 1998 UK 1,8 Accord, as these are much taller 3,4,5th
Reinstall the B LSD, Please dont say: OH PLEASE IT WANT FIT! there is a way you only havent tought about it.
Edit: Checked LSD POSTS on CRV tranny, you need a spacer what 6mm? weaken the Diff and mile(again weakness) the bolts, so you dont mess with 5th and reverse.
Guess what
I Compared QUAIFE B vs F/H difs, Difference is +3mm ofset for the B, that makes a taller 9-10mm spacer only. Will use my old rear break rotors (as material matches) to make the spacer of it.
I will keep bolting as per B serie the Final to the Diff. So will redrill the rear transfer gear instead as have less load to absorb. eventualy only will need 0.5-1cm longer LH bolts.
This will need reconfirmation as need to take the 3 tranys apart. But first need to source any of P2A5, P2A8, P2U5, T2C5 or U2G5 H/F long ratio gear boxes. is quite a task but best bet is for the U2G5 as was used in the 1998 1,8 Eropean Accords.
Gear shifter, have the RTSI unit in hands. The other day saw K-series under chassis mount flat box. so I may fabricate such bracket, depends on what space the propeler will provide.
RTSI Shift cables, however Accord, CRV or any H,F, whatever fits the length.
Propeler shaft CRV, Civic 1998 have same wheel front to rear distance as the same year CRV, so on giving the AXLE angles in the X,Y,Z axis. so axles wonīt break
Propeller Bearing bracket, will need to fit there also exhaust lines...
Rear diff HRV (same ratio as CRV with +4 attach points)
Reworked stock trailing arms, adding a bracket to accept Accord 4th gen front bearing,
Reworked 4th gen RTSI civic rear Hub(done) to fit the 43mm ID bearing.
Rear Subframe, will have to remove the stock beam, no go as on the way of the Axles. Will Try to rework a CRV one, then eventally will need to custom fab special length LCA.
6th gen Civic LCA (mines ar as 5th Gen)
Shocks, I want to save the stock geometry, therefore no shock tower rework. OEM rear shock are on the way of the axles too so on Will be using Front Dampers with forks. Not an error. Front Dampers witht he forks, out of the 4th gen Civic or the 3rd gen Accord or Prelude. Need to source from scrapeyard, for now as per read in specs, the CIVICīs are promising due to the travel length, but the Accord/Lude sits lower, and give better clearance for the Axles. I do not want eventuall Axle to chassis poor clearance when compressed.
Springs, Again front of 4th gen Civic, Curiously has front weight almost exact as I will have but at the back. In case it is too light, will move new bigger battery or put more weight to balance.
Civic ferio RTSI Fuel tank need to sand blast first, have also spare Beagle Tank in a worst condition, or maybe will need to make 2 aluminium units with 2 pumps and 50mm pipe connecting it. Nuts not yet.
And finaly Exhaust line. this will be custom made, but will need to be rerouted, and twist exit behind the rear subframe instead front side of the tank.
Pictures will follow short.
By the way pushed out the ABS rings, will be pressing it on the inner CV joints instead, and a bracket to fit the sensors will be made. Remember I wanted it also to have VSA?
The weight distribution have to be near 55/45 front to rear. Aprox total 1360kg. Stock ride height and nearly -1 to 1.5cm less clearanace. Added front weight and additional rigidity of the suspension will be also helped by using front Accord (cannot remeber year or gen but have these fellas in the shelf.) Shocks and springs, as the SBXM tranny+ the Propeler add + 40-50kg at the front.

Here I must leave, letting you think I wrote nonsense.
Just beacause everybody thinks it is not possible,
it does only means you havenīt tried enough options.

This a build thread, please save the exclamations, and advise constructive ideas, instead of destructive comments.

Please note never learned English at school, realy never bothered how to speak it. same with Spanish, French, Russian. Bulgarian is another story.
Will apreciate any corrections in the spelling as PM, or request just to block you, if spam the post.
And if you find something offencive, is due to your own lack of practice speaking to me. I have the bad habit and usually do the oposite of the not possible, I make it happen.

DarryCar

This is a very unique vehicle, nice to see something different out there. I'm in it for the win on this project. Can't wait to see where you go with the AWD set-up on this. Don't worry about your spelly, you're doing great. I really don't have time to PM you all of the corrections, so we will just have to deal with it. Hell I can't even speak another language let alone write in one! Good luck with your project and keep us updated.

tony_2018

This gonna be good.

Yes you'll need to source from a civic RTI, or the integra RTI.

atanatas

An update on the rear suspension,
The cornerstone in the project.
REAR BEARING BRAKE BRACKET 3D in AUTOCAD. the first OEM not available



hope the guy from the machine shop have time for my project and make this babes real.
This 2,4kg billet steel piece will carry the accord front wheel bearing on it, so copy the original knucke bearing dimensions only upgrade to thick walls as it will have huge hole trough it, and add the 4 bolts for the Bearing.
Printed the blueprint, checked, it all fits like a glove over Miladyīs hand!

The Bracket, Bearing and Hub, are the most stressed components of the whole suspension as well further they pass the tension to the TA, therefore absorbed partially from the bushings to LCA, UCA, from LCA split to Shock Damper and chassis.
So everithing has to be as much possible near the stock. You change thiny bit in the geometry you suffer shassis structural rigidity and stiffness loss, Therefore, new bushings sooner, new this, new that more than often. So youīd better buy yourselfe Euro brand new car.
Not that I am against, but the comapany drive given for my duty purpouses is the most popular europen made car ever here.
Only facts.
January this year pick the company car assigned from the garage with 145k KM on, and toke it to workshop for inspection.
The following few days.
800€ full suspension rework, all bearings, bushings, dampers, everithing it has on the suspension, purchased in the house,
installed under my personal supervision to be as on the manual. Me but only drives the car so no chance to loose it bacause of the guyīs in the shop understandings on how things to be done...
I guess thatīs why all mechanics arround town hate me already.
180k km now 180days later...
2 times engine failiure each 600+€, sensor bulls blue ***** sht. Lets say this is common, bad fuel, bad this, bad that, leave it here move forward company pays as no accident, "car is old 2002 made" .
Also replaced timing belts, tensioners so on for the party a funny weeks grounded in pit stop...
Already needs changed the front berings as whines in hard cornering, Scarry to loose left wheel somwhere in the local mountains...
Broken all damper bump stops,
Left side rear, Right front side ​dampers leaking oil. At least these are under warranty. Maybe excessive stress as standing at wrong angles? Body twists whatever mess of the weakened chassis...
Started to experience scarry cracks, scratch noises from places where nothing has to move. Doors got missaligned by themselves in a strange way,
Cīmon itīs "peoples car", it has all the simptoms of the 5 year programed by designers deterioration but on a later deterioration stage,
So you have enough signs you need to change it, or else vs all other options spent some $$, yet again sooner or later change it for new one,
Quite exact "the" new one, which is still the same, only later year same model beacause you cannot afford the better because of your lease policy, cannot pay + or exchange or you loose whatever crap.

The Civic 1998
230K (at 160K engine rebuild)
Changed consumables, oil, filters, brake pads usually buy the softer ones on the market, 1 time rotors all 4 changed. and main rear LCA bushings for OEM, bulbs?
thatīs all folks. I kinda broken the gearbox main shaft bearing, while was installing tough stage excedy clutch. Because of my own stupidity to work at night under Joint friends influence.
Easy to solve, new gearbox is comming in, so no probs.

I will kinda make a joke.
have you read TRAINSPOTING?
watch the movie is quicker, only with the book you gona laugh 5 days longer...
before you keep reading the post at least go get the movie, no cars related but still WATCH IT. than read on again,

Go and buy a wash machine kinda looking new car, go to service it under waranty every 10k and pay for that. Go to exchange your oils, and squeze brains out your pockets every time a light goes on...
so one, so one, so one... Modern society rules! Fit in it, Be cool!
Well (as per book) I chose not to, so I chossed something else...
​I am really against drug abuse, however I recognise my addiction fixing things freely.
Used to sell Honda bikes components and accessories in Spain, Still then was wondering how humanity realy loosed consciousness to gain just a litle more fake comfort. it doesnt matter the financial part of it.
Now becoming a father the so called "modern society" scares me even more. Not being kind of weirdo, and triyng to fit whatever the circumstances. Believe not me but my Wifeīs words I am a very popular and kinda exotic for the other moms...

Enough out of topic
As you observe the TA is stock civic 5,6th GEN!
THIS IS NOT a shortened version of the RTSI TA!

Already mentioned donīt want to loose strenght in critical component so minimal welding is recomended and not where it can bend, broke stitch, whatever..
Will only reinforce by pipes tacking front to rear wall of the TA,
pass the 4 bolts thru TA torque to bracket.
4 Bolt torque Bearing to bracket.
Pretty much this is it.
HUB from Shuttle 4WD, has the same splines to match CRV CD Joints. Only OD is 34mm,
What was done
Hot Inserted steel pipe than machined to 43mm Bore 44mm Spigot of the Hub.
You need 0.1-0.3mm on the hub being tight (wider) than the bearing. As you do need to press fit it in the bearing.

Yet again machine shop guy is quite bussy at summer.
Every ricer in the town wants a new spoiler to make his car run faster...

Now the struts,
as not moving back the LCA Ancor point in the trailing arm, The Strut hits the axle. what to do now?
Easy, well it took me quite of brain it out. Copy front setup at the rear. Will need to replace the Shock bushing at LCA for a wider 50mm from 5th gen.

The bet is on 4th gen Civic forks with shocks and stock springs (in the picture wrong L side fork placed on R TA/LCA)
Stock length on the actuall installed shocks is 53,5cm
As per Technical data collected here and there. The extended length of the OEM rear must measure something totally different, never mind!
The lenght of 4th gen (Again Tech data) Shock + Fork is somwhere 52-54cm,
Depending on how you translate the measure from inches and what each brand actually measures, got more confused each time needed to read/compare the data over and over.

The real Calculation
20cm fork length from center of bottom bolt (at LCA) to the top of fork.
Looking 32-34cm length of the shock measured from top of fork (excluding the 5,5cm in the fork) to top of spring bed inside top hat.
Really pissed in local scrap yards, mostly hard to find such an old car, and when you find it, guess whats the answer to:
"Could you please jack it up and I take few looks underneath it?"
I donīt wanna buy something brand new that it wanīt fit. No warranty I can return it back, Last time the shop sent me a "set branded" for SHUTTLE RT,
the guy selling me it, was right
it is 4th gen Civic, only difference a wagon.
I added:
is lifted
and uses different OEM number for the Shocks!
He said: -Which are same length for the 5th gen...
Me: - only thinner at the fork...
And the reply was: - Aha I knew there was some compatibility... whatever it should work for you...
Silly simple things in relations. I was really missing this Balkan Mc. Hammered solid conclusive thinking for a while.

​I NEED HELP OVER HERE! PLEASE SOMEBODY OWNING 4TH GEN CIVIC no matter ex el ls rex!
Please jack your car at the front and Measure the length of fork from center of bottom bolt at LCA to top of spring cap where touches the fender IN THE FRONT and EXTENDED!

Thanks for the encouraging words,
The fun is all mine.

atanatas

Checked the OEM compatible components for the SBXM gearbox with EPC,
While running the OEM numbers for each gear or sinchro separatelly,
Appears broad vehicle compatibility, mixed up with aplication in D,B,H,F cars.
CIVICS, ACCORDS, LUDE pieces are used for that tranny.
Can be in good use for custom 4WD gearbox assembly.
Next weird thing. D serie 4WD from HRV have only different housings, internally is the same as the CRV piece, even the transfer case is the same!

atanatas

Visited the junkyard and checked the length of the 4th Gen Civic Front shocks
It is 3.5cm longer than needed, I was hoping to be near 55cm from stud on forks to cap. It is 57cm, when needed is 53,5cm.
It is only a bit dissapointing,
Will have to use extended +2,5cm top cap, and custom made LCA, with lowered 1,5cm strut mount Bore.
Research in progress so stay tuned

atanatas

Have a Jazzy feeling about his front beam...
ugh, that basement is a mess,
however, this JAZZ front beam is huge, will have to narow it to fit. as free of charge, not bothered to experiment.
next option is to look for Accord rear beam. if closer to measures will use instead.

tony_2018

You seem to have an abundant of parts to convert to awd. GL.

atanatas

And a bad moogy things in the basement...
Space is limited
no garage
no space anymore at the basement.
so 1st first plan, the longest part
then collect, can be even longer
Fabricate the missing bits.
after all is checked by assembly "on dry"
rent a garage for a week buy few extra dozens of beers, and have a weekend with the mates to help you out while all getting drunk happy ever after.
Simple plan, only too long. but no rush, budget is growing slow. My son is 1st priority.
Luckily the kido love cars...
First words in a sentence were DADDY DRIVES CAR, ME SEAT BACK QUIET HAPPY!

atanatas

Lond forgoten skills at practice,
sometimes Corel Draw, is easy to use than Autocad.
Custom made LCA, 5th or 6gen.
Strut bushing displaced to fit 4th gen shock with fork drop
3cm of bushing over the LCA, 0 drop of the car.


Dropped the Inner LCA fitment side 2cm so I can have extra room for the axles and the diferential.
Clearly not enough clearance, for the axle at the top of the fork.
so will go for drop 2cm. and have extended top cup about 2-3cm to keep shock travel normal.
prepared a top View of the whole assembly with the 6th gen LCA as base,
bad clearance for the exhaust pipes.
so left there only aligned the LCA at the correct angles for my shell.
Still don't have the Accord Rear Beam so can take measurements, and see if I can actually use it.

Preliminar TOP view.
6th gen LCA wth 5th gen propper angles.
Accord 1997 subrame
CRV Dif/ Axles.
clearly no place for the exhaust except if very flat unit mounted undreneath spare tire space.



that's all for now folks.

~sp33~

How's this coming along mate? I like your detailed posts.

atanatas

looking to jack up the car 1" but not loose the OEM suspension geometry. So on spring lowering/lifting kits are banned.
Designing
Front knuckles with 1" lowered wheel center.
RTA also with lowered wheels center.
this will allow me to use OEM suspension parts.

Planning to use S355mc steel but only could find 4.8mm thick plate. Here is a nightmare with the steels. Someone from the UK or Europe please help. Bulgarian socks won't help at that point.
2nd option is to make In Aluminum manganese alloy, but is gonna be way to expensive.
I am afraid to use simple cheap aluminium sheets, bloody thing is so brittle.

That's what it takes to live in an exotic place, everything normal becomes exotic to find...
But once done, will make as sale ready kits.
a buddy of mine wants it for race his Rex in the local championship.
​​​​​​
Cheers.
A.

atanatas

updates soon

atanatas

Long time no see,
was working on the trailing arms,
finally got used to all new stylish ACAD2018 and got this brand new 3d trailing arm

RTA Outside RTA inside Isometric

Bearing, Brake adapter plates,


SET Main Bushing and Bearing Assembly First Cardboard mockup.
Then plasma CNC, welding,
I hope within a week to have the rear beam also finished design.
Cheers for now, going out for a beer.

~sp33~

Nice. I'm interested how you're measuring the attachment points? Not an easy thing to do when they're not on the same plane. The upper link for example is a compound angle?

atanatas

I am using the chassis repair manual and cross checking by flat measuring from ground all suspension points.
UCA is tilted 30' in parallel to wheels, Manual says the same.
Toke out Spindle,

Stacked the RTA over the work bench table at spindle bolts. used 1cm spacer to clear the LCA hose.
Stacked an aluminum threaded pipe, in the UCA LCA holes, tightened, measured the distances triangulated the angles.
found nothing like, or there is some deflection, but couldn't catch significant as pipe was 10mm orifices are 11mm and than is above 2' distortion over 50mm...

Now that you ask will be measuring again,
but there is an composed angle at chassis point UCA, 3_20'

Actual image

~sp33~

Never thought of using the chassis repair manual, that's a great idea. I guess you only really need to be in the ball park if you've got adjusters on your main attachment points to dial in/out any measurement errors.

atanatas

the car is abused, some measurements were 1,5 cm difference,
it took a while find a flat and horizontal enough spot to measure correctly.
All cats have earned my despicable honor.
also mentioned few other pipes on the way.
If you hear a woman glazed by the 9 inch thing of her boyfriend, believe me is not a big deal of a measurement... You hardly can stick your head in to..

atanatas

No kidding,
UCA is sticking 90 degree straight out the chassis at ride height, no more mystery!


The guy who scanned the original Honda BOOK took a shot and twisted the page... on the Upper arms precisely


Just a 2 cent skill in cad and that's it, long story short. straightened and done in the real size, these 2 bushes are parallel.
Measured My spare UCA's both are thorn, like twisted both pointing at many directions...
It is so Geometrical!
I really don't understand why the suspension components are so overpriced. when things look so simple.

atanatas

Marry Christmas Everyone!
recently I had a tragically experienced mother nature's wrath.
I am doomed, I've transferred to my son the genetic mechanical disorder.
He wanted from Santa a real tool set, and he is not even 4 years old!

However project not dead,
Only making a U turn in a dead end street, I have a new job.

DCFIVER

Excellent, detailed thread.

Best of luck.

atanatas

Well,
I have my LSD form the B series and was planning to place it at the back with major mods,
on a Beer meeting last week, A doctor friend of mine shared:
I Don't believe anymore to car mechanics, knowing how much should people trust to doctors...
...
No comment, next time you read something in internet, perhaps is only 5% true.
Long story short. there is common misbelieve B series LSD will not fit the SBXM or CRV gearbox.
In fact it will fit even better with minor mods.
here why:
I have looked dimensions and overlapped both LSD H22 and B18C LSD's using the QUAIFE Tech sheets.
common misconception is to measure position of the LSD from the Gearbox side Bearing Bed.


BUT.
when you measure from the Clutch side things awkwardly change in favor to B sides as there is +0.9mm gain for studs.



The disadvantages
You will still need a spacer
Bearing Spigots will displace the axles 3.3mm and 1.8mm. L R respectively but this is yet to be confirmed as haven’t opened the gearbox yet and don’t know where the Final drive is located respective to the CRANKSHAFT.The Things to consider and have no info now,
On the Left side (L2 ) will stick out about 3,3mm, and Spigot on the right side about 1,8mm(L2A)
Position of Left spigot respective to engine, therefore Intermediate Shaft length to use. Suposedly B Series (NOT CRV due to spline differences???)
Please advise differences on splines and lengths.
Position of speed sensor ring is unknown (yet) may need readjust with additional spacer ring
Oil rings, XBSM Oil seals will not work.
Right side OIL SEAL new size 35X58X6
Left Side OIL SEAL, OEM 35X56X8 Should work, However I am about to use 35X56X6 +2mm PTFE spacer to avoid rubbing against the Spigot.
Theoretically myth BUSTED! But not confirmed yet, too cold outside to confirm in person.

atanatas

NOTE Correction:
RIGHT SIDE OIL SEAL READ AS:
40X58X6 Recommended, 40x58x8 OEM may Work as well.

Cheers A.

atanatas

HEY CRV guys,

Does anyone keep the stock Final Drive and Transfer Gear?
Please give a light on many Dimensions as possible.
will be good to have also Differential
I basically need L2, L2A, L3, L4 measured from previous post sketch.

Thanks in advance.

Nath-cd9-racer

Great thread.

I have one sat in mothballs. Looking for something to do with it!

What happened to the car? Hope its a happy ending!