Thanks for the reply.

 

Good timing on this post because Im building my first motor using Total Seal Gapless rings. My question is: in which orientation do the middle rings lay?
According to earl, the thicker ring is on top and the thinner ring is under, and locks with the thicker ring. This makes sense, because the closer the rings are toward the cumbustion chamber, the more load they will bear, hence the thicker rings on top.
I want to make sure I dont end up in the situation that the creator of this post is in...

 

When I did my rings on my JE pistons. It told me a different ring gap spec per application. For a normally aspirated engine the gap is smaller since their is not as much heat therefore not as much expansion. When doing a turbo or NOS engine however the ring gap needs to be fairly large from the intense amount of heat buildup. Take the ring off of the piston. Put into the cylinder and slide down into the cylinder with the top of the piston to make sure the ring is properly placed. Use a feeler guage and measure the gap. If the gap is not large enough take the ring back out and place againt a flat edge to make a flat edge on the ring. I carefully squeezed the ring together until the 2 ends meet up with each other to make sure that when the ring does expand it meets up with the otheredge evenly.

To answer the last guys question the rings should be labeled. The have to go in on way only or else they will not work properly. Mine were labels JE-1/JE-2 for the top two, and the oil ring is the different one. My instruction told me that JE-1 was the top ring and JE-2 was the 2nd ring or scraper ring and the oil at the bottom. Make sure to put the gaps on opposite sides of each other. Compression ring the top one, scraper the second, 2 thin oil rins and the larger oil ring. Each gap for each of the 5 rings at a different location.

The only question I have with this is I did the ring gap for the turbo application, but have not put the turbo onto the engine. My car for this reason has alot of blowby and has a small amount of smoke when first started when its cold.I think that this is from the gap but was wondering if any of the Turbo guy have the same problem.
They are JE Turbo pistons with/JE rings.
Thanks


[Modified by crxhybrid1320, 3:10 AM 12/8/2002]


[Modified by crxhybrid1320, 3:11 AM 12/8/2002]

 

The rings were not labeled when they came out of the box(I had bought them off somebody that had opened them, tore off the packaging, BUT never installed them...bastard!) The top rings were still labeled, as well as some really thin rings that said "Do not confuse with oil control rings!" I figured these really thin rings went in along with the middle rings. I wanted to know if these really thin rings went above or below the thicker ring in the second piston slot.

 

Is this an application where part of the piston pin hole in the piston overlaps the ring land for the oil control rings? Usually the ring that says "do not confuse" is actually a lower support for a normal oil ring. OR maybe it is part og the gapless application and I don't have a clue what I am talking about. I might need pix on this one.

 

QUOTE]Is this an application where part of the piston pin hole in the piston overlaps the ring land for the oil control rings? Usually the ring that says "do not confuse" is actually a lower support for a normal oil ring. OR maybe it is part og the gapless application and I don't have a clue what I am talking about. I might need pix on this one.[/QUOTE]
It might be the one where you dont know what youre talkin about j/k
This might help...shitty quality, sorry
The upper arrow points toward the thin ring(that said DONT CONFUSE WITH OIL CONTROL RINGS) The lower arrow is pointing toward the thicker ring. The thick ring has a groove in it that the thin ring pops right into, resulting in the exact same outer diameter. I want to know if the thin ring goes on top of the piston groove, like in the picture, or if I need to flip them over, so the thin ring is on the bottom of the middle groove....lemme know if you need more pics.

 

Call Total Seal and get an approved ring that will handle boost and are made for those pistons. Then buy a ring filer and feeler gauge set to where they tell you. I left my ring a little loose rather than tight. Rather burn a bit of oil than riun the cylinder walls. Also, Left them loose because I am boosting 18 psi and I don't mind loosing a little copm rather than having the head fly off because it run to tight. I have srp piston and they came with rings. Ring gap is very important when trying to get reliability out of your motor.Have fun. If your not a proffessioal then have one do it and don't waste your money.

 

I see said the blind man. I've never used those style rings before but the pix shows that it is definitely not for the oil ring support as that is not necessary for that piston. I don't have a clue on this

 

The rings came with the pistons, so they should work. Im going to take them to the machine shop and see what they have to say. If they dont know, Total Seal is the next resort...thanx everyone