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Replacing rear mount/removing T-bracket

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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 05:45 AM
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Default Replacing rear mount/removing T-bracket

So back in May when I pulled my engine, I had a hell of a time with that rear T bracket. When I pulled the engine out, I had just unbolted the bracket and it fell out as I pulled the engine up. However when I dropped the engine back in, I got the side mounts bolted up, and then it took my 2+ hours trying to coax the T-bracket into place.

Well my rear mount is torn, and I could not wait for a new one at the time, so I'm hoping to replace it soon when I also pull the dash to replace my heater core.

So is it at all possible to replace the rear mount w/ the engine still in the car? Keep in mind this is a stock B18C1 engine with the stock dual-runner manifold. Should I just go ahead and pull the engine up again anyway just to make it easier?

I remember several years ago when I first changed my clutch that I got the T-bracket out and back in again in order to drop the tranny, but I don't remember it being as hard as it was a few months ago when pulling the engine.

Any tips?
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:14 AM
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Default Re: Replacing rear mount/removing T-bracket (PatrickGSR94)

Patrick,

What mounts are in the car? It's def doable to just remove the rear t-bracket with the motor in the car. Easiest way to go about it is back off the 17mm thru-bolts for the trans and driverside mount so they're not snugg, but still threaded. Once you unbolt the (2) 19mm on the bracket and the (1) 17mm bracket/block thru-bolt, the motor will swing front to back.

Once the bracket is out, (3) 14mm nuts for the rear mount, kind of a bitch but you'll be able to get it done.

GL my friend
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 09:41 AM
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Yeah when I was putting the T-bracket back in, I had only the left and right mounts bolted up so the engine could swing. But pushing the engine as far as I could, I could not for the life of me get it in between the IM, steering rack, etc. etc. I think I managed to squeeze it through from above.

But my main concern is getting off those 3 bolts holding the mount to the subframe. The one towards the rear of the subframe looks particularly difficult to get to with the engine still in the car.

I'm planning on removing the dash and replacing my heater core at the same time, as well as all the heater hoses, so hopefully I'll have more clearance around the T-bracket and rear mount while the heater core pipes and water valve and hoses are all removed.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 10:11 AM
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Default Re: (PatrickGSR94)

You're life will def be made easier if the core and lines are gone.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 10:57 AM
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Default Re: (a1320addict)

You should put it in as your sliding the engine in. No mounts attached.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 02:04 PM
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Default Re: (patriot)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patriot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should put it in as your sliding the engine in. No mounts attached. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, shoulda done it that way before. But now I'm trying to figure out if I can do it (replace rear engine mount) w/ engine still in the car. I'd rather not have to pull it all out again.
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