replacing pistons/rings
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: Cenral Valley, CA, U.S.A.
i searched and found nothing, but i think my brower is trippin. anyway:
i need to replace rings on my #1 cylinder. maybe the piston. either way, is it really THAT hard, once i take the block down to have the sleeves honed?
are there any threads here, that i missed, that would be of help? thanks!
i need to replace rings on my #1 cylinder. maybe the piston. either way, is it really THAT hard, once i take the block down to have the sleeves honed?
are there any threads here, that i missed, that would be of help? thanks!
It's not that it's hard, it just that it's so easy to screw up. In a Honda motor I have to recommend replacing all of the rings and/or pistons if you do this to keep the engine in a better state of balance. Also replace the bearings and seals while you have the engine apart. There should be plenty of "how-to" guides here on Honda-Tech, but also get ahold of the Helms manual for your car, it has detailed instructions.
Best advice, if you haven't done any engine work, is to get someone experienced to help you.
Best advice, if you haven't done any engine work, is to get someone experienced to help you.
Thread Starter
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From: Cenral Valley, CA, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not that it's hard, it just that it's so easy to screw up. In a Honda motor I have to recommend replacing all of the rings and/or pistons if you do this to keep the engine in a better state of balance. Also replace the bearings and seals while you have the engine apart. There should be plenty of "how-to" guides here on Honda-Tech, but also get ahold of the Helms manual for your car, it has detailed instructions.
Best advice, if you haven't done any engine work, is to get someone experienced to help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a helms guide is a no-brainer. if it were valvetrain.. i dunno that i would mess with it. but i really think that, with the proper tools, pistons/rings should be pretty easy, though time consuming. thanks!
i have blown rings and don't really have enough money for a rebuild..
Best advice, if you haven't done any engine work, is to get someone experienced to help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a helms guide is a no-brainer. if it were valvetrain.. i dunno that i would mess with it. but i really think that, with the proper tools, pistons/rings should be pretty easy, though time consuming. thanks!
i have blown rings and don't really have enough money for a rebuild..
You can get away with a full blown hone job on all 4 cylinders along with all four ring sets. You could do this yourself w/out too much of a hassle. The main thing behind all of this is to keep it CLEAN - you can't stress that enough.
It's not that hard at all. I'm assuming you have a B-series...do those have floating wrist pins or press-fits?
Basically, you will pull the head and drop the oil pan. Then drop the girdle. Unbolt the rod bolts and set aside the end caps and bearings. One by one, pull the pistons out, hone the block, wash it off, install the piston wrings onto the piston while paying attention to which side of the rings go up, set end gap on each ring, install the pistons back in the block w/ a ring compressor, tap the piston in until it gets back to the crank journal, torque down the endcaps and bearings, and move on to the next piston. When you're done, torque back down the girdle, torque down and seal the oil pan, reinstall the head w/ a new gasket, and reinstall all the sensors, manifold, etc.
If you need to replace the piston, then assuming it's a floating wrist pin piston, you will use needle nose pliers to pull out the c-clip from the wrist pin on the piston, pull out the wrist pin, pull off the piston, slide the wrist pin into the new piston while it's on the rod, reinstall the c-clips, and continue w/ the process.
Basically, you will pull the head and drop the oil pan. Then drop the girdle. Unbolt the rod bolts and set aside the end caps and bearings. One by one, pull the pistons out, hone the block, wash it off, install the piston wrings onto the piston while paying attention to which side of the rings go up, set end gap on each ring, install the pistons back in the block w/ a ring compressor, tap the piston in until it gets back to the crank journal, torque down the endcaps and bearings, and move on to the next piston. When you're done, torque back down the girdle, torque down and seal the oil pan, reinstall the head w/ a new gasket, and reinstall all the sensors, manifold, etc.
If you need to replace the piston, then assuming it's a floating wrist pin piston, you will use needle nose pliers to pull out the c-clip from the wrist pin on the piston, pull out the wrist pin, pull off the piston, slide the wrist pin into the new piston while it's on the rod, reinstall the c-clips, and continue w/ the process.
Yeah, it's not that hard, just time consuming.
Make sure you are very careful when setting the ring end-gap, and when setting the torque specs. Those are the only two things where you can really screw things up, and they're easy to do correctly if you take the time to do it right, and have the right tools (files, feeler gauges, torque wrench)
Make sure you are very careful when setting the ring end-gap, and when setting the torque specs. Those are the only two things where you can really screw things up, and they're easy to do correctly if you take the time to do it right, and have the right tools (files, feeler gauges, torque wrench)
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Thread Starter
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From: Cenral Valley, CA, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> (files, feeler gauges, torque wrench)</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup. got all that!
yup. got all that!
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it's really not that bad. I agree with the others, it is time consuming. Make dayam sure your end gap is right. I spent WAAAY too long gapping my rings to the right specs. Just take your time and be careful. Have fun
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From: Cenral Valley, CA, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garados »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's really not that bad. I agree with the others, it is time consuming. Make dayam sure your end gap is right. I spent WAAAY too long gapping my rings to the right specs. Just take your time and be careful. Have fun
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm a perfectionist when it comes to stuff like that. don't worry. i'm quite **** about the inside of my motor.
as for the engine stand, i'm pretty sure we have one of those too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i'm a perfectionist when it comes to stuff like that. don't worry. i'm quite **** about the inside of my motor.
as for the engine stand, i'm pretty sure we have one of those too.
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