Replacing front wheel stud?
A while back I broke a wheel stud, so Im going to replace it this next week when I put my KYB's in. How hard is it to replace? I know you have to pull the hub with a hub puller, but once you get the hub out, how do you get it back in? When the ub is out do I just pound the stud out, or is there another way to get it out? Can you pretty much just give me a quick run through of what I'll have to do?
either use a hydraulic press to press the hub out to replace the stud, and then
press it back in.
OR
Grind away part of the spindle behind the hub, and then hit the new stud in with
a hammer.
press it back in.
OR
Grind away part of the spindle behind the hub, and then hit the new stud in with
a hammer.
Grind away part of the spindle behind the hub, and then hit the new stud in with
a hammer.
a hammer.
taking out the hubs and repressing them in isn't for begineers.
if you want to do it right you should also replace your wheel bearings. usually when you take out the hub, the bearing also seperates and when you do this most of the time when assembling everything again theres usually noticeable play. if part of the race is stuck on the hub, you'll need a bearing seperator to take off the race, before you can install a new bearing.
when all that is out of the way, theres a c-clip in the spindle that retains the wheel bearing. remove this and press the bearing out. when pressing the new bearing, only press on the outer most portion of the bearing. otherwise you'll ruin it.
next you'll need to press the hub back into the spindle. this is also a little bit tricky. you need to support the inner brearing race from the bottom, and then press the hub in. otherwise the bearing will seperate as you press the hub into the spindle.
hope this is clear and understandable. good luck
be sure to torque your axle nut to spec & stake the nut. off the top of my head i think its 138 ft-lbs. otherwise you'll have problems.
if you want to do it right you should also replace your wheel bearings. usually when you take out the hub, the bearing also seperates and when you do this most of the time when assembling everything again theres usually noticeable play. if part of the race is stuck on the hub, you'll need a bearing seperator to take off the race, before you can install a new bearing.
when all that is out of the way, theres a c-clip in the spindle that retains the wheel bearing. remove this and press the bearing out. when pressing the new bearing, only press on the outer most portion of the bearing. otherwise you'll ruin it.
next you'll need to press the hub back into the spindle. this is also a little bit tricky. you need to support the inner brearing race from the bottom, and then press the hub in. otherwise the bearing will seperate as you press the hub into the spindle.
hope this is clear and understandable. good luck
be sure to torque your axle nut to spec & stake the nut. off the top of my head i think its 138 ft-lbs. otherwise you'll have problems.
SEFI8LOxCivic does it as a pro mechanic would do it. You can't do it yourself without the right tools...unless you take a big hammer and knock out the stud (while everything is still assembled on the car). Grind a little notch on the new stud and maybe a little on the back of the hub. When you get the stud in place put on a lug nut and tighten it until the stud pulls in place. I've done it that way and it works. Otherwise be prepared to buy a new bearing and pay a machine shop.
Is it all explained in the Helms manual? I really need to get me one!
Does anyone know about how much it would cost to have it done by a mechanic?
Does anyone know about how much it would cost to have it done by a mechanic?
Trending Topics
I really relieved! I place I bought my wheels from replaced it for FREE!!!!! It was kinda their fault that it broke because only 1 of the lugs was torqued down on that corner when they rotated my tires. I didn't realize it till about 2 weeks later when it started sounding like my CV joint went bad. It made a thud thud thud sound when I was driving slow, or slowed down. When I went to check my axle out, I took 3 of the lug nuts off BY HAND!!!! I was like WTF! Then when I went to torque it back down, 1 of the studs broke.
Anyways, I didn't think they would replace it casue there was no way for me to prove that they had anything to do with it, so I was just going to do it my self or pay to have it done. When I told them about it, they replaced it right away with no charge! Im quite happy!
Anyways, I didn't think they would replace it casue there was no way for me to prove that they had anything to do with it, so I was just going to do it my self or pay to have it done. When I told them about it, they replaced it right away with no charge! Im quite happy!
wow...u guys are making this more complicated than anything...first take off the caliper, than the 2 screws that hold on the rotor...get a hammer and wack it out...get the new stud and poke it through the hole.....put some spacers on the stud and than tighten the lug nut down realy tight...take the ug nut off, than put everything back on..very simple...I use to work at a tire shop and had to do this about 3 times a day
experience tells me that its not that easy. earl hit it on the head when he said you gotta notch a portion of the spindle to avoid complete assembly. while i have heard that it maybe possible to just hammer the stud on some models, i know that it does not work for all models. the bolt pattern on my hub is 4 x 114 and even with that extra space simply hammering it would not have worked.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ketchup
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
17
Jun 27, 2008 09:02 PM
ghettoracer
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
15
Feb 2, 2005 08:42 PM




