Removing rotors, need help with using the proper tool(s)
Trying to remove both front rotors for the first time and need some recommendations on the tools to use to remove the two screws.
thanks.
thanks.
put some blaster on them or w4-40.try not to get the spray on the rotor,use a big end phillips head screw driver,not a old shitty one with the tip all pointy.a good blunt end phillps works good make sure it fits in there tight .put the screw driver on the bolt and hit the end with a hammer.this is how i get them off.**** some times you can do it by hand.
if some one has a better way let us know
if some one has a better way let us know
How easy is to scrip the screws? Is it just two screws holding the rotor to the car? Sounds kinda weak.
[Modified by typeRP, 10:56 PM 4/29/2002]
[Modified by typeRP, 10:56 PM 4/29/2002]
Snap On sells a tool called an impact driver. You use it to remove these screws. Don't confuse this tool with an air impact gun. This tool has interchangeable heads like a screw driver. You put it on the screw, twist a little and smack the end with a dead blow. You put the screws back in the same way. Don't know how much this tool costs.
These 2 screws do hold the rotor to the hub, however, dont forget, so do the lug nuts and the rims.
After you get the screws out, you may need to get 2 bolts that thread into the other 2 holes on the rotor. You thread these in and tighten them down and it pulls the rotor from the hub.
These 2 screws do hold the rotor to the hub, however, dont forget, so do the lug nuts and the rims.
After you get the screws out, you may need to get 2 bolts that thread into the other 2 holes on the rotor. You thread these in and tighten them down and it pulls the rotor from the hub.
...and after you try the screw driver, and the wd-40, and the impact driver, and finally strip the slots out of the screw, get a drill and a 3/8" bit, and just drill the center out of the screw until it falls off. The threaded part will stay in the hub, but at least you can get the rotor off. When you bolt the wheel back on, it'll hold the rotor just fine.
All you need is an impact driver..
it's a fat metal screw driver that you hit with a hammer...
and you hit it... it will turn the screw a tiny bit...
the screw will loosen.. and you can unscrew it...
any other method and you will strip the screw head really bad
it's a fat metal screw driver that you hit with a hammer...
and you hit it... it will turn the screw a tiny bit...
the screw will loosen.. and you can unscrew it...
any other method and you will strip the screw head really bad
All you need is an impact driver..
it's a fat metal screw driver that you hit with a hammer...
and you hit it... it will turn the screw a tiny bit...
the screw will loosen.. and you can unscrew it...
any other method and you will strip the screw head really bad
it's a fat metal screw driver that you hit with a hammer...
and you hit it... it will turn the screw a tiny bit...
the screw will loosen.. and you can unscrew it...
any other method and you will strip the screw head really bad
They cost about 20 bucks and come with different bits. If you just use a regular philips srewdriver you will more than likely strip them. Those screws are realy soft. You might as well buy one cuz you will need it also when it comes to tighten them.
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drill them out, grind off any remaining part sticking out after you remove the rotor.
these screws hold the rotor in place during manufacturing. only.
all other times the caliper will retain them in the correct place, like changing wheels, bleeding brakes, etc.
these screws hold the rotor in place during manufacturing. only.
all other times the caliper will retain them in the correct place, like changing wheels, bleeding brakes, etc.
yeah, don't even waste time trying to get them out if they are stuck, just drill them and save yourself the hassle.
drill them out, grind off any remaining part sticking out after you remove the rotor.
these screws hold the rotor in place during manufacturing. only.
all other times the caliper will retain them in the correct place, like changing wheels, bleeding brakes, etc.
these screws hold the rotor in place during manufacturing. only.
all other times the caliper will retain them in the correct place, like changing wheels, bleeding brakes, etc.
yes in can be argued that they are not necessary since the wheel and the brake will hold the rotor in place.....
But I'd rather not deal with the rotor wobbling around while I'm taking my brakes apart..
What's the different between a inpact driver and a impact wrench? I have a 1/2 air impact wrench to take off stubborn bolts like wheel lug nuts and exhaust/header bolts/nuts. Can I use that?
so why so the honda manual tell you to replace these screws when resurfacing or replacing the rotor?
yes in can be argued that they are not necessary since the wheel and the brake will hold the rotor in place.....
But I'd rather not deal with the rotor wobbling around while I'm taking my brakes apart..
yes in can be argued that they are not necessary since the wheel and the brake will hold the rotor in place.....
But I'd rather not deal with the rotor wobbling around while I'm taking my brakes apart..
As long as you have the proper adapter to accomodate a phillips bit.
That's exactly what I used. I kept the pieces, even tho I usually just return the tools to Sears or Walmart after using them for a day.
That's exactly what I used. I kept the pieces, even tho I usually just return the tools to Sears or Walmart after using them for a day.
What's the different between a inpact driver and a impact wrench? I have a 1/2 air impact wrench to take off stubborn bolts like wheel lug nuts and exhaust/header bolts/nuts. Can I use that?
I used the impact driver from Sears when I did my rotors. Use the flathead bit, not the philips one. I used the philips and it stripped the screw heads up. Then I ended using a Dremel to cut a deeper slot to used the flathead bits w/ the impact driver. And then those bitches came out easy.
[Modified by red97gsr, 10:17 PM 4/30/2002]
[Modified by red97gsr, 10:17 PM 4/30/2002]
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