This question is asked frequently. I looked for a write up in the 92-00 Civic section and here in Tech/Misc both recent and archived and found nothing. Unfortunately, I'm not able to show you exactly how to clean or remove it, but fortunately it's relatively easy for anyone with even just a little experience wrenching.

Removing the IACV from the 96-00 D16Y7 is easiest if the throttle body is removed from the plenum. It can be taken of w/o unbolting the throttle body, but there's not much room to work with and is a PITA IMO. Also, I usually use TB cleaner to clean this thing. I recommend getting a new gasket as well, I notice a lot of them get brittle with age.


This is the location of the IACV on the TB, you have to remove the filter box to get a it. Very little room to work with.
When the coolant lines are removed, a small amount of coolant will come out, nothing serious. ONLY DO THIS JOB WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD.



There are four bolt/screws (actually both) that hold the IACV onto the TB. 8mm IIRC.

These are the two coolant lines.

This is where the connector snaps in.



Clean this area well this is where the air volume is controlled. There is usually a fair amount of carbon build up.

Notice the valve blade. Clean any gunk off of it.

This is the coolant circulation chamber. Generally not that dirty but clean it anyway.



Clean this mating surface well, you don't want any coolant/vacuum leaks. DO NOT use sand paper or anything abrasive.



Hope this helps someone!


Bryan

 

worthless piece of $%$#% lol jk, good how to, i hate that IACV, its so damn hard to get to

 

Very true. I swear the Y motors have the most problematic IACVs.

 

What are the symptoms of dirty IACV's ? I got 120k, maybe its time to clean mine too? lol

 

the most common symptom is the fluctuating idle (fore example, going up and down from 750 rpm to 2000 and back down)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicstar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the most common symptom is the fluctuating idle (fore example, going up and down from 750 rpm to 2000 and back down)</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

good explaination

 

Thank you sir

 

it's about time i finally know what to do and how to clean it! thanks.

 

Thank god! I've been finally a thread that helps..Thanks a bunch!

 

Oh btw, I heard using Brake cleaner to clean this helps? or what do you Reccomend?

 

I use carb cleaner. Brake cleaner is probably fine.


.

 

Would this be kinda the same for a D16Y8? Mines has a 129000 miles and when I drive for a wile and come to a stop some times it will just sit on 2000 rpm then I just tap the gas and it will drop back down. Is it cheap to replace or cleaning is fine?

 

Bump

 

well for a new IACV is about 150+ dollars, you can try cleaning it first but if it doesnt work out then yeah just buy a new one... i might be buy a new one too but not too sure yet

 

I am going to try cleaning my IACV first. Cost $250 for a new one
213,000 mi so might need a new one. I am getting tired of the fluctuating idle.

 

is it a must to drain the coolant first?

 

I know this thread is old, but It came up as the first one when I was searching for D16Y7 Idle issues.

I just wanted to make a note that No, You don't have to Drain the coolant first. You can just clamp the hose before removing it, or use a towel or rag to catch a bit that spills when you remove the hose.

 

Drain the engine? No way.

All you have to do is what DeSaaD37 said and you're good to go.



Thanks for the contribution.

 

STICKY please!

 

Just did this on my car. Thank you for the detailed tutorial.

This -rotary- Idle Air Control Valve is also found on the D14A3, D14A4, D14A8, D16B2, and D16Y7 engines. And automatic transmission cars of this period.

D14A2, D16Y2 and D16Y3 engine codes with automatic transmission also have a Fast Idle Thermo Valve. (-haynes manual)

My D14A4 seems not to have a FITV, but as mentioned it does have this rotary IACV.

 

I cannot see the images?????

 

You can thank Photobucket for that. They recently changed their site to require people pay $399 for external image links.

PM the original poster of this thread, to see if he's still got access to the images.

 

I had replace the Idle Air Control Valve and the MAP sensor. We didnt adjust the IAC Valve, because we assumed we you bought it, they were adjusted for you. That, and we dont have an RPM gauge to let use know exactly how to.

And yet, it won't start. And if it does, it stalls soon after. The engine light came on and the codes came up regarding the MAP sensor and tge IAC valve. Did we mess up by not adjusting the IAC?

How do we do it w/o a tachometer? Also, we just installed a new starter, thinking that could be the problem. need HELP