after i installed my Skunk2 stage 1 cams, my car wont hold a steady idle. i'll turn it on and let it warm up and the whole time it will just from 1K-1.5K or if it doesnt do that it will rev to 1000 then drop down to about 200 or 300 and struggle like its gonna die.

beside the idle issue, VTEC sucks. Its loud as **** but it has even less power than stock. could it be due to the increase of air with no increase in fuel? would an adjustable FPR do the trick or it is just a waste of money?

thanks in advance

 

Ok i noticed a new problem today. in 1st gear, VTEC is slower than stock. in 2nd its slower than in 1st. in 3rd it goes to about 6-6.5K then stops raising, and in 4th it hits 5700 and stays there. any ideas?

 

You need to tune.....or have your car tuned on a dyno

 

Tune

 

did you set the timing properly?

 

I would check your ignition timing, you can probably advance it more than it already is, that can play a big role in power. I noticed the same thing when I installed my S2S3s in my car, I had timing originally at stock and then advanced it to 20 degrees and a big difference is noticed, I wouldnt think to buy a FPR, I would go with a Walboro 195 fuel pump, in my opinion its better than spending time on a FPR, plus if you end up getting it tuned a good tuner can adjust to make power on stock fuel pressure by messing with fuel and ignition maps. Just my opinion.

 

it wouldnt make since to tune now since i dont have anything to tune. after i get cam gears, FPR, VAFC, and hondata, then i'll get it tuned.

also i think my timing is advanced ~22. at stock it ran even worse.

 

[QUOTE=after i get cam gears, FPR, VAFC, and hondata, then i'll get it tuned.[/QUOTE]

Why would you buy a VAFC and get HONDATA, that is pointless. Hondata does more tuning than a VAFC can do. If you get the s200 program and take it to somebody that is a HONDATA dealer/tuner they can tune if for you, and like I said I wouldnt even bother with a FPR I would buy a fuel pump instead cause if you have a good tuner he can tune off of stock fuel pressure rather than messing with a regulator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreStaged12s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why would you buy a VAFC and get HONDATA, that is pointless. Hondata does more tuning than a VAFC can do. If you get the s200 program and take it to somebody that is a HONDATA dealer/tuner they can tune if for you, and like I said I wouldnt even bother with a FPR I would buy a fuel pump instead cause if you have a good tuner he can tune off of stock fuel pressure rather than messing with a regulator.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why wouldnt he bother with a FPR? So you're saying that sticking with stock fuel pressure is OK? Yes a tuner can tune for any fuel pressure, but its an extra safe guard to run a few PSI higher to make sure you wont lean out - stock fuel pressure is no good for high-horsepower apps. I'm currently running 46psi at WOT and my stock was 42.

Also, make sure you dont get one of the B&M pieces of ****, they're a bottle neck that'll prevent you from turning the fuel pressure down. Get an AEM, Aeromotive, or another standalone unit.
This is how I did mine, had to plug the stock hole and drill/tap the fitting on the end:
Never had a single issue with leaks, ample fuel return, or adjustability

 

I had the same problem as you. I dropped the cams in and it seemed like it was slower than before. I thought there was something wrong with the installation so we took it all apart and did it again. Same ****. It felt like it was lagging in Vtec.

I had idle problems too. Sometimes it would die when it was idling.

How did I fix all this? I took it to the Dyno and got it Tuned. It made a WORLD of a difference. Totally different car afterwards. Be sure to get some adjustable Cam Gears and a Fuel Tuning device.

 

Did you even break the cams in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kaoticeg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you even break the cams in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't need to break them in. Just lube them up and start her up. Let it idle for a couple minutes and start driving. Should be perfectly fine. I drove 2 hours back home RIGHT after the Cam Installation TWICE.

 

I have been told by many reliable tuners to not run a FPR because its easier for them to tune the car on stock fuel pressure rather than have a adjustable regulator to mess with, this is just what I have been told, all we do is give our opinions, you dont have to do what we say but at least flirt with the idea. I have seen on many occasions high hp motors tuned on stock fuel pressure, the highest power I saw made was 235whp on stock fuel pressure with 370cc injectors with HONDATA s200, again this is just my opinion, you dont have to listen to it.

 

everyone's Opinon are welcomed.

But bigger cams need higher fuel pressure. Skunk2 recommends boosting the Fuel Pressure up to 48-52psi after the Cam Install. Not sure about most NA applications, but I do know that FI setups need an adjustable FPR along with other Fuel components.

It doesn't hurt to have an Adj FPR.

 

It really depends on your fuel managment whether you need to boost fuel pressure or not. With a VAFC, I would say most definately, you can only add a small amount of fuel with a VAFC because you are just manipulating the MAP values, and it will only add as much as the ECU fuel maps will allow. So bumping up fuel pressure is really the only way for more fuel to enter with this type of setup unless you have larger injectors. If you are running Hondata or a similar setup, you can add bigger injectors, change your fuel tables, to account for to extra needed fuel and not ever have to touch your fuel pressure. Without bumping pressure, your limiting factor is your injectors though. Bumping fuel pressure and larger injectors, will also lower your duty cycle, which is usually better for the motor, but harder on the fuel system.

 

well, lots of mixed opinions. i guess ill get the cam gears then go get it tuned. skunk2 reccommended bumping the fuel pressure +5 PSI. thanks for the input guys.

 

I guess ill have to see how my set up ends up being affected. I have S2S3 running 370cc injectors and a Walboro 195 with HONDATA s200 and I plan on running on stock fuel pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolnG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tune</TD></TR></TABLE>

After insatlling cams you should get your engine tuned for them.

 

i bet your timing belt is off by 1 tooth... put everything at TDC and make sure all pointers line up. skunk2 stage1 cams are not that radical that they need to be tuned to even run correctly. totally sounds like an ignition timing issue to me.

 

I just installed my stage1 cams recently too, and it's acting the same way, I'm sure it's because it needs to be tuned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96dxB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i bet your timing belt is off by 1 tooth... put everything at TDC and make sure all pointers line up. skunk2 stage1 cams are not that radical that they need to be tuned to even run correctly. totally sounds like an ignition timing issue to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ding ding ding....... 96dxB16 hit it on the money. my timing was off by a little so now the car is running smooth as silk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Terminator Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ding ding ding....... 96dxB16 hit it on the money. my timing was off by a little so now the car is running smooth as silk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad you got everything worked out. Now go TUNE that biatch.

 

you dont have to adjust fuel pressure if you increase injector pulsewidth, but it is always nice to have that extra tuning option of being able to adjust fuel pressure.

adjusting fuel pressure to "tune" is like using an FMU to boost. Its very linear, since it will increase fuel pressure across the entire fuel map, but in the end, its best to tune your mapping.

 

FPR isnt really 100% needed... i didnt need one for my d16y8 wit crower stage 2 cams, headers, high flo cat, cat back exhaust, intake, all msd ignition, jet chipped ecu(fucked wit my fuel and messed up things, but now is back to normal), and a VAFC, and it was tunned perfect wit outa FPR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eclpze97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FPR isnt really 100% needed... i didnt need one for my d16y8 wit crower stage 2 cams, headers, high flo cat, cat back exhaust, intake, all msd ignition, jet chipped ecu(fucked wit my fuel and messed up things, but now is back to normal), and a VAFC, and it was tunned perfect wit outa FPR</TD></TR></TABLE>


you only have ONE header