my car has been acting up lately, after about a good half hour drive the car then shuts down. im leaning toward the fact that my fuel pump is going bad but i am not sure.

i read that the main relay could be the problem but this happens at night too when the weather is cool. every time i would get a CEL for faulty map sensor reading. I have switched the map sensor numerous times but that doesn't seem to be the problem.

This one particular time i heard the fuel pump priming but then sounded like it went dry. I shut off the car and gave it a few seconds and started it back up again. It sounded like it was about to die again almost like i had my kill switch off. is it in fact the fuel pump that is gone?
93 H22 in 5th gen accord.

 

if it sounds like it's dying you could possibly have a short somehwere, trace the wires and see if there is any splices any where

 

it sputters then dies but it doesnt happen until i drive it for a long time ONLY when i drive it for a while. could it still be a short

 

Definetly sounds like your PGM-FI main relay.

Check out the bottom of the page and refer to the websites for help:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=642479&page=5

 

i will try soldering that part... alot cheaper than replacing fuel pump but its not that it wont turn on it will turn on but the throttle response is off i would have to hold it at high rpm for it to idle then after a while it will be ok. or after the long drive i would be at a stop light and it will just quietly die out then i would turn it on again and then just go =S

 

ok so i took my main relay off it looks perfectly fine all the joints looks good but i will try and switch relays with a friend i am still leaning toward a new fuel pump guess im gonna be looking at the walbro but before i try the walbro im going to give the fuel filter a try it a 9 year old car so its about due anyway wish me luck and i will keep everyone posted as to which will fix what

 

why don't you run a fuel pressure test so you eliminate the guessing. you can test the main relay but from what it sounds like main relays don't make the car sputter. they will either work or not or do as you said run for a while then cut out.

 

cool ill see if my open shop class today has the tools and supplies for that today weds by latest

 

sorry can't IM yet but a fuel press test will show what your fuel pressure is at. you can leave it on and let the car run and watch it(don't drive it though) unless you have a B+M kit. this way you can see if you are the right psi for what the cars specs are and also see if the pressure starts dropping. this way you isolate the problem.

 

ok did the fuel pressure test today and turns out that my stock fpr shows a little lower than stock specs stock specs are 30-38 and about 38-46 without load.well my car did about a 28 with load and no more than 35 without load.

not only that but today i had a hard time getting the car to idle seems like not enough fuel is getting through and my car keeps dying. even while driving when i try to give it throttle it seems to want to cut off. still getting a map sensor code. argh. going to try and change fuel filter tomorrow or weds. since it hasn't been changed in 9 years.

 

Are you sure the actual problem is that you're not getting enough fuel? One thing is for sure, a lack of fuel will not cause a CEL for a faulty map sensor reading. Changing the fuel filter is a good idea anyway, but I seriously doubt this will solve or help your problem in any way. There are several things that could throw your map sensor reading out of spec (hence changing the map sensor didnt help), I'd get a can of carb cleaner and spray around all your intake manifold, throttle body, etc, etc gaskets and make sure theres no vacuum leaks. Also, if you did the swap yourself or are unsure of the mechanical ability of the person that swapped the motor, you might think about tracing the wires from the map sensor all the way to the ecu...just to be sure theres not a wire shorting somewhere.

Also, just for the **** of it, you might want to just do a thorough check of all the basic maintenance items if the engine hasnt been maintained in the last 9 years. Check your plugs, dist. cap, dist. rotor, might even want to grab a timing light and check timing. Might not help your problem out any, but if you have the time to do it, its definately not going to hurt anything.

 

i maintain this car very well. i keep it in the best condition i maintain it maybe every week. every chance it goes into the shop im doing something new with it. there are no vacuum leaks check that today also, did an volt meter reading on the lines it seems fine. just sprayed carb last week.

well i know that there's 5 steps that the car goes through in order to start up. map, tps, crank angle sensor, coolant temp sensor, and i forgot the last one but wasn't it the o2? well any way if one of these was thrown off isn't it possible that it could trigger any one of these sensors? not enough of one thing would make the other thing imbalance and thats seems to be what is happening here.

but the fuel filter is something i've been avoiding because it is such a hassle to do but i guess nows as good as any to give it a shot. but something does definitely seem clogged.


i just thought of something... vica versa not enough air could also trick the map into putting out the wrong amount of fuel. ill look more into this tomorrow. probably take out my tb maybe change the gasket thanks for the help everyone

 

If your engine is pulling a healthy vaccum (~19-21"), your MAP should output ~.95v. With the engine off, key on, the MAP should read ~2.85v.

I'd suggest a change of fuel filters, especially if yours has >100k miles. This could also cause your low fuel pressure.

I'm not sure about OBD1, but OBD2 does use rationality testing. For instance, its not rational that your TPS show 4.5v (WOT) but your MAP sensor is showing .95v (idling conditions). Both voltages are in spec to the ECU but it doesn't make sense that one shows WOT while the other shows idle.

Can you make the MAP code appear - is it predictable at all? Does it ALWAYS come on after extended drive periods?

 

i was having the same problems with my car. came down to 2 things, either i wasn't getting the fuel, or there was something wrong with my cam timing, turned out to be the timing. somehow the belt jumped a few teeth, and whenever i'd drive it for a few minutes, it'd just shut down. if you've checked that out already, then i'd suggest it has to do with the fuel somehow also. but i don't think a fuel filter alone would cause your car to shut off. good luck

BTW gaydm.accord.. you still got those ITR pistons on pr4 rods? im interested in buying them. you got an e-mail address i can get ahold of you at? thanks

 

thanks for the replies guys... i did a lot of things to my car in in the past 2 days. got the fuel filter changed and boy did that make a big difference. for one my car didn't hesitate to start. second it feels a lot more smoother driving at high temperatures.(during the day). i cleared all my codes. checked vacuum leaks once again. cleaned up my throttle body took map sensor off and sprayed carbcleaner in all the little holes and passages.


i drove it for about 30 minutes today and it didn't die or hesitate so im hoping i solved the problem. we'll see how it goes in about a week or so when i put some more mileage on the car.

oh and i will be posting a DIY in a few days on how to change fuel filter on the accord. i found a quick 15-30 min way how to do it. if you've attempted to change the filter on the 5th gen accord you will know how tough it is. i spent 3 hours fiddling with it then in the end i went out and bought some tools and managed to come up with a solution.

 

wow, i guess thats all it was eh? i should check out my f filter as well.

can u hit me up about those ITR pistons and pr4 rods? i need to get ahold of u for them. thanks