My idle is around 1700 RPM at operating temp. I never got a code or anything from my TPS, but my idle screw was fine and I couldnt get any help from anyone or anything worthwhile from my searches. I bought a used TPS from ebay, installed it today, and now I have a check engine light (code 7..TPS). I have tried resetting my ECU and that did not fix it. When I rotate my TPS, the throttle cable wheel (i dont know what it is actually called) turns also. Is it supposed to do this? When it is like this my idle when it is turned as far counterclockwise as it can go it still at 1700-2K. Clockwise just raises it further. I tried installing it in a way which teh cable wheel would not turn when the TPS was turned, and it made no difference to the RPM at all.

I did not have a ECU code untill I changed the TPS. I disconnected my battery for the night, and in the morning I am going to reconnect it and let it idle for 30 minutes without me messing with the throttle at all and hoefully that will fix the idle problem. I doubt it will, but that is what BBK Tech dept. told me to do.

I have a BBK TB by the way....on my 1st gen B16.

TIA!


Modified by B16CRXT at 4:33 PM 5/23/2004

 

bump before I go to work.

 

you can just swap the TPS in and away you go.

you need to measure the voltage from the TPS sensor to the ECU using a digital multimeter. it's gotta be 0.4-0.5V at closed throttle and 4.5-5V at wide open throttle.

 

well, thats what I did and it caused a check engine light. Even when I put the old one back on the light is now on.

I kno wabout checkbng the voltage, but my problem is: When I turn the TPs it doesnt change the idle except to raise it.


IS THE BUTTERFLY SUPPOSED TO TURN WHEN YOU TURN THE TPS?

Thanks

 

Have you checked the output from the TPS yet? Does the output vary as the throttle cable is pulled?

 

Ok, I fixed it today without a multimeter. Before I took the old one off B4, I traced around it on the TB witha sharpie pen. I finally got the thing in tehre right this morning and now the engine light is gone and the ECU isnt flashing a code at me anymore. I am still gonna check the voltage tonight of the TPS though.

BTW: to answer my previous question; the throttle is NOT supposed to move when you turn the TPS.

Also, since I have eliminated the TPS or idle adjusting screw as a source of my high idle problem what else could it be? This crap didnt happen until I did a compression test a while back.....I didnt florr the gas when I did it or disconnect the dizzy...I just had the plug wires out and cranked it over until the gauge stopped moving. Would that cause my high idle?

TIA!

 

ok, I just checked the output form the TPS and I got 0.9 closed and 4.9 WOT.

I guess that is ok, since I no longer have my check engine light or anything, but I still have my high idle.


This crap is throwing me for a loop. Would doing a compression test wrong cause this maybe? or unproperly gapped spark plugs? I changed my spark plugs a few weeks ago...didnt bother to gap them. Maybe Ill stick my old ones in and see if that changes anything. They weernt bad...(yea right). They looked burnt as hell, but they still did a good job. Ill check the gap on them and gap my new ones as well. Hopefully this is actually my source of high idle...I doubt it....

 

0.9v closed is too high, it should be maximum 0.5v. The ECU will think you're always on the gas and be putting in a little too much fuel at idle. High fuel = high idle

If you didn't floor it when you did a compression test, the engine was trying its damndest to suck air past the throttle plate. If it sucked hard enough, it could have bent the plate or the shaft. If the plate is bent, well, then you've got an air leak past the plate and that could definitely be a source of your high idle. So in this sense, yes, the compression test could have caused this problem.

Sounds like a couple of problems! For an easy fix, try and get ahold of another B16A 1g throttlebody - should be no more than $30-$40 USD and often it will come with a TPS already.