just went through a rebuild and im about to start it up but i have heard that u need to prime it to build oil pressure. Do i need to do that? and if i do how do you guys do it?

 

disconnect the coil or the plug wires from the dizzy and u can do this as it won't let it crank over

and if u worried about fuel priming too then dissconnect the fuel pump and there u go nothing but oil will be cycling

 

or you could be really cool and buy an Oil accumulator, which holds about 2 quarts of oil, is pressurised with about 100psi. all you do is hit the selenoid switch, and BAM you got O P. Moroso is the only maker that I know of, but if your real smart it be an easy DIY!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazie1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and if u worried about fuel priming too then dissconnect the fuel pump and there u go nothing but oil will be cycling</TD></TR></TABLE>
can i just unplug the injectors? and if i do have to disconnect the fuel pump isnt there a fuse i can just unplug?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeuelOrDie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you could be really cool and buy an Oil accumulator, which holds about 2 quarts of oil, is pressurised with about 100psi. all you do is hit the selenoid switch, and BAM you got O P. Moroso is the only maker that I know of, but if your real smart it be an easy DIY!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
that sounds cool i'll look into that too but on this motor i dont have time

 

The oil accumulators from Moroso and Accusump need to have pressurized oil pumped into them first before they can be used for pre-oiling before start up.

You would have to install the accumulator on another car temporarily to fill it with pressurized oil.

Remove the 15A ECU fuse to crank the motor w/o fuel or spark.

 

is that the fuse that says FI/em? its on a 96 civic dx

 

i have a 92 civic hb, putting in a b18b1, so just unpluging the distrib will work? should i disconnect fuel injectors?

 

pull the spark plugs too. This allows the motor to spin freely. I also recommend you pour some oil down the pickup tube while the engine is upside down on the engine stand. This gets the pump gears wet and allows them to make suction right away.

 

I wish I could go and jsut buy some pressurized oil!
All you need to have is an air hose to pressurize the ACCUMULATOR.
But if you want to real cool just buy a 12v small compressor and you have "pressurized oil" where ever you go!

 

thanx for the info everyone. so is that fuse that says FI EM the one you are talking about IN VTEC?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeuelOrDie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you could be really cool and buy an Oil accumulator, which holds about 2 quarts of oil, is pressurised with about 100psi. all you do is hit the selenoid switch, and BAM you got O P. Moroso is the only maker that I know of, but if your real smart it be an easy DIY!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow thats alot more pressure than the pump makes, ever think about what that does to seals?

dont do the disconnect distributor method, the engine is still dry spinning when you crank it.

the BEST way to do it is this way. go to home depot, get one of those hand pump bug sprayers, get a fitting that fits into the oil pressure sender threaded hole. (autozone will sell them if you bring them the OP sender to compare thread size) and just connect the bug sprayer to that fitting. put 2 quarts of oil in the sprayer and just start pumping. when the 2 quarts are in the engine, its gotten enough oil all around the oiling system.

 

I don't know how it's labeled on the Civic's, but on my Integra, it's labeled "ECU".

You could also disconnect the ECU from the harness.

I was wrong about needing to fill the accumulators with pressurized oil rather than pressurizing it after filling it with oil. You really only need to pressurize it with 50psi of air to be sufficient. I remember why I have one now.

I like the hand pump idea, but wouldn't you need a check valve on the line to keep the oil from backflowing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


dont do the disconnect distributor method, the engine is still dry spinning when you crank it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure? i mean its not like there is no assembly lube in there or something, but then again how long do i have to crank it to build enough pressure?

 

bump for more info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96MidoriHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure? i mean its not like there is no assembly lube in there or something, but then again how long do i have to crank it to build enough pressure? </TD></TR></TABLE>
im telling you the 100% sure fire safe way to do it. even with assy. lube there is a SLIGHT chance you can spin a bearing. i cant count how many engine i myself have dry cranked to prime and never had a problem, but the SAFEST way is the bug sprayer. its cheap and why even take the chance?

and you should realy have an oil pressure gauge so you know if you are even building pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im telling you the 100% sure fire safe way to do it. even with assy. lube there is a SLIGHT chance you can spin a bearing. i cant count how many engine i myself have dry cranked to prime and never had a problem, but the SAFEST way is the bug sprayer. its cheap and why even take the chance?

and you should realy have an oil pressure gauge so you know if you are even building pressure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i think i will do that i just didnt want to end up having to pull the sensor back out because the motor is already in the car