Ok, here's the deal... I bought this '97 Civic EX sedan for my wife a couple months ago and up until just recently the power windows haven't had a problem. About a week ago, my wife rolls down the left rear window, drives around for a bit, and then tries to roll it back up, but it doesn't work. When I arrive, I take off the switch at the door (left rear), unplug it, and then plug it back in. The window works fine again for about 30 seconds and then it quits again. It will roll the window down just fine, but will not roll the window up at all, doesn't even try to do it.

How it is now is that I get no response (up or down) for that window from the main window switch on the driver's door panel. The other windows work just fine. I am able to roll the window down, but not up from the switch on the left rear door itself.

I have swapped out known good working switches at both the driver's door and the left rear door. No luck. I originally thought it was the motor, so that was replaced with a known good one. No luck. All fuses look to be good. I have tested the motor without the regulator attached, so that cannot be at fault.

What is weird is that I get a 12v reading on both the "up" and "down" wires off the motor when the switch is in the "up" position at the driver's door main switch. I only get 12v on the "down" wire when the switch is in the "down" position. I get 0v on the "up" wire when the switch at the left rear door is in the "up" position.

I can't seem to trace this one down. I'm leaning towards a wiring problem, but I have traced the wiring inside the left rear door and at the door jamb. They all look to be in good shape.

Thanks for any help

 

here are some pages from the helms manual that i found.
*click on thumbnail for access to full size pic*


Circuit Diagram


Master Switch Test


Master Switch Input Test


Master Switch Input Test (cont.)


Passenger's Window Switch Test

 

If you are reading 12V+ on both leads, "I get a 12v reading on both the "up" and "down" wires off the motor when the switch is in the "up" position" you have a grounding problem.

The power window switching system is a simple ground at rest polarity reversing system, both the leads going to each motor are grounds when switch is at rest, when you rock the switch for up or down you "lift", [disconnect] the ground on one of the leads and supply it with 12V+, the motor runs in one direction, flip the switch the other way and you lift the ground on the other lead and supply it with a ground so motor runs in the other direction.

Test the the leads, [red/yellow and red/blue] going to the LR window motor from the LR door switch, , also test the leads from the master switch to the LR door switch, [yellow and yellow/green] switch must be plugged in and do not move switch up or down, this test must be done when window will not roll up all 4 of the leads should test as grounds, the yellow/black should test as 12V+, [with ign. switch on].

My guess is neither the red/blue, [to motor] or yellow/green, [from main switch] will test as a grounds, [not really a guess as you said both the leads going to motor test as 12V+ when you try and roll the window up, which is exactly what would happen if there was no ground].

So the question is where is the break, to find out test the two leads from main switch, [yellow and yellow/green] but test them at the main switch where they are the green and green/yellow leads, if they both test as grounds, my guess is they will, because you have swapped out the switch, [master switch is not the problem] and the other windows work, [ pass. windows on/off switch works and the main ground is good].
You can confirm the main pass. window ground is good if the drivers window auto down works when LR window will not roll up, [same ground].

That leaves a connection problem between the master switch and the LR switch, and the first place I would look is at the door harness to chassis harness plugs and in the rubber boots between the door and the chassis.

Again the easiest way is to test for the ground on the green and green/yellow, starting at the main switch then at both ends of the drivers door harness plug then over to the LR door harness plug, the break will be between the last place you had the ground and the first place you did not.
My guess is that is is either in the rubber boots between the doors and chassis or at the door to chassis plugs. 94

 

thank you very much for all the info. i did test the yel/grn yesterday at the connector that goes from chassis to left rear door and i believe i was getting 12V+ there also.

from what i understand from your post, i should go from there forward towards the main switch and see when it turns to a ground? i have a feeling that it is going to be in the much harder to reach front door jamb.

update:
well, i went out and re-tested the yellow and yel/grn wires and both are reading 0V when the ignition is ON, all switches are connected, and no buttons are pressed. tested at the main swtich (where they are green and grn/yel), tested along floor next to front door opening, tested at rear door jamb on both sides of the connector, and tested at rear door switch.

and yes, the auto-down does work on the driver's window.

 

update (did this before reading fcm's post above):
i was able to get the motor to work by jumping the yel/blk (constant 12V+) and the red/yel "up" lead for the motor together while touching the red/blu "down" lead to ground.

this leads me to thinking that the passenger window switch is to blame. i tested it for continuity and the results are below, and seems to test fine?

 

I do not think it is the switch because you said you swapped it out with a working one and the results of your test indicate the switch is OK.

Set the meter to the continuity setting, [meter beeps when probes are touched together] ground one probe to the cars chassis, [any ground point] then with the LP switch plugged in and not moved touch the other probe to the red/yellow, red/blue, yellow and yellow/green, all 4 leads should have full continuity to ground, [test as grounds].

If the yellow/green tests as a ground but the red/blue does not, the switch would be the problem, my guess is neither one will test as ground.

If the above is the case move the probe down and test the yellow/green, [may by just green at this point] on both ends of the door to chassis plug, if still not ground move to drivers door to chassis plug and test green lead on both sides of the plug there and if still no ground test the green at the drivers door switch.

Because the auto down works on the drivers window we know the ground for the pass. door windows is good and because you said you switched the drivers door window switch, [master switch] and the other pass. windows work the problem is not the master switch or the pass. window main switch, leaving only a problem with the green - yellow/green lead.

To confirm, using a jumper lead connect the green at drivers master switch to the yellow/green at LR switch, if my guess is correct the window should work properly. 94

 

all 4 leads test as grounds (i see 0.00, just as i do when i touch the 2 probes of the meter together)

both yellow and yellow/green test as ground at door-to-chassis plug (both sides of the plug)
red/yellow, red/blue, green and green/yellow all test as ground at driver's main switch

I ran a jumper from the green at drivers master switch to the yellow/green at LR switch, and YES, it does allow the window to work properly. so that confirms there is a break somewhere in the green - yellow/green lead. now just to find it.

 

Hi Guys,

I have the exactly same problem. I replaced the motor but no luck. Thank you for all your posts, now I have solved the problem.

The problem is that there is a connector in the Left B pillar. If you look at the electrical circuit diagram posted previously, you can see there is color change of wire for the Left Rear power window. There is a dot in the graph, which represents a adapter(connector).

I removed the internal trim pad of the B pillar, pull out the connector use a screw drive to adjust the connection teeth, and put some W40 on it. Now, so far, it works perfectly fine. If the problem come back again, I think I will just manually connect all the wires and by pass the Fxxking connector.

I hope this help and once again thank for your info.

Regards,
Sam T

 

also check the harness that runs from the drivers door into the car. I've seen these exact cars have harness problems right at the flex part of the harness. fairly involved diag and repair. includes removal of the door and pulling the harness out of the body enough to repair it. also repair needs to be able to flex so soldering is eventually going to give in. best way is super short crimp connectors with flexable heat shrink. good luck.