please help! even acura's stumped...
I have an 01 type r 57k and basic bolt-ons. about a year ago my car started acting up: while driving down the road at 80 mph the car would start "bucking" like it was running out of gas.. i took it to acura and they replaced my spark plugs and rotor button. less than month later it was back at acura and they decided to replace the igniter and coil. the fuel filter has been replaced twice as well as the spark plug wires. The problem has continued and worsened: some mornings, especially cold mornings, the car will not start immediately, it will crank, idle at about 2200 for a couple of secs then die. when you turn the key over it either wont crank or it will and the idle will go back and forth between 1000 ind 2200 and then die. when you finally do get it cranked, it black smoke pours from the exhaust. also when you get on it you can feel a miss between 6-7000. acura finally witnessed this cold morning ritual and decided that the tw sensor was bad and replaced it. two days later, it was acting up again. When you do get it cranked in the morning, you can hear the idle is rough and you can tell that it is running rich. it still will act up while riding down the road and a few times it has cut off on me when coming to a stop at a red light. Everyone that i have talked to is stumped, and it doesnt throw any codes. so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know...
Have they pulled they checked the injectors? Sounds like they might be dumping too much fuel or like the other guy said the ECU is bad.
Good luck figuring it out.
Good luck figuring it out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by axhandler »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have they pulled they checked the injectors? Sounds like they might be dumping too much fuel or like the other guy said the ECU is bad.
Good luck figuring it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like one of the injectors may be leaking. Does your engine oil have a strong odor of gas?
Good luck figuring it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like one of the injectors may be leaking. Does your engine oil have a strong odor of gas?
That's the one thing i did leave out, i had the injectors checked, and they were given an ok a few months ago. it seems as though too much fuel is getting dumped and its just flooding the engine. i've been trying to get an ecu to switch out, it seems that's the only thing left it could be...
It sounds like you need to find a new Acura Dealership. I would have swapped in a known good distributor or replaced the ECM by now (the ECM is under warranty).
If I understand you correctly, the engine will not crank intermittantly. So you turn the key to 'crank' and nothing happens...Right? It will eventually start but it will run bad and it seems as if the engine is flooded.
If this is the case, it sounds like you have a bad ignition switch. The ignition switch supplies power to several different circuits including the distributor.
If I understand you correctly, the engine will not crank intermittantly. So you turn the key to 'crank' and nothing happens...Right? It will eventually start but it will run bad and it seems as if the engine is flooded.
If this is the case, it sounds like you have a bad ignition switch. The ignition switch supplies power to several different circuits including the distributor.
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I would go back to the Acura dealer and find out who is the top tech diagnostic and tell him this:
Hook up the PGM tester and set it up for snap shot/manual trigger and test drive the car. The PGM tester can record a movie of the data for 30sec of time frame. I use this alot to track down no code problems. Once a movie is recorded, the tech can play the data frame by frame to trace the problem down.
However, a bucking problem is often a TP dropping out. But in your case, I would closely monitor the map sensor singal since your having a fuel and stalling problem.
If you know someone with a OBD2 scanner ask them if they hook it up and look at the MAP input and BORO input - with key on engine off the input should be the same. This is a quick way to check inputs. This is also true on the ECT and IAT with engine stone cold they both should have th same voltage inputs.
Hook up the PGM tester and set it up for snap shot/manual trigger and test drive the car. The PGM tester can record a movie of the data for 30sec of time frame. I use this alot to track down no code problems. Once a movie is recorded, the tech can play the data frame by frame to trace the problem down.
However, a bucking problem is often a TP dropping out. But in your case, I would closely monitor the map sensor singal since your having a fuel and stalling problem.
If you know someone with a OBD2 scanner ask them if they hook it up and look at the MAP input and BORO input - with key on engine off the input should be the same. This is a quick way to check inputs. This is also true on the ECT and IAT with engine stone cold they both should have th same voltage inputs.
this is hard to describe but i will try: when i turn the key to crank the engine, it will crank but it struggles to stay turning and after a sec or two..it will die and it will continue to do this for awhile. Eventually it will stay cranked but run bad for a few min then smooth out. the last time this happened i took it straight to the dealership and the whole way you could feel it "stuttering" and my roommate who was behind me said black smoke was pouring out the exhaust. but i'm taking it to acura now giving them all the suggestions.... the car will be there for a couple of days so if you can think of anything else let me know....
and if anyone one knows about warranties also...b/c my car is out of warranty now and even though this is a continuing problem i'm paying for this out of pocket and i thought if it was a continuing problem it should still be covered??
and if anyone one knows about warranties also...b/c my car is out of warranty now and even though this is a continuing problem i'm paying for this out of pocket and i thought if it was a continuing problem it should still be covered??
Your ECM and cat converter have a 80K federal warranty. I think the California emission warranty is much longer. The Califronia warranty applies to California(duh), Massachusetts and Vermont...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AngryTroll »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your ECM and cat converter have a 80K federal warranty. I think the California emission warranty is much longer. The Califronia warranty applies to California(duh), Massachusetts and Vermont...</TD></TR></TABLE>
The type r do not apply for the 80k nor the 10k mile warranty from honda.
All honda mold year from 96-97 have the fed 80k or 10year emmission warranty. 98-99 are covered based on vin's only - plus the technician and the service advisor determine if the problem is emission related before warrantie is awarded. In some cases the service district manager(Honda rep.) may decline a repair or approve a repair.
The type r do not apply for the 80k nor the 10k mile warranty from honda.
All honda mold year from 96-97 have the fed 80k or 10year emmission warranty. 98-99 are covered based on vin's only - plus the technician and the service advisor determine if the problem is emission related before warrantie is awarded. In some cases the service district manager(Honda rep.) may decline a repair or approve a repair.
That sounds like a problem that lots of OBD2 guys that have converted to OBD1 have. Something to do with the EVAP purge sucking down fuel through the charcoal canister on startup. Since its a 01, I don't know if this could be something similar, maybe its faulty wiring with the EVAP or the ECU as someone already said.
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