I want to pitch my stock ECU, so i can unlock all the power in my engine (I can "feel" the computer rolling back the timing if i jump in it's *** suddenly. It's done that since she was brand new). Crome wont work, cause they only cover OBD 0 and 1, from what i gather from this website.Can i have complete tuning power with a Hondata? If so, what model? Anyone have one they dont want? Anything said will be helpful, since i don't know **** about aftermarket ECU's. Car is a 99 Si, stock B16A2.

 

Crome is OBD1 only
complete tuning power?? Crome/Hondata/eCtune all basically do the same things.
if you have a stock engine there is no need to tune. If you really want to tune you're going to have to convert to OBD1 with an OBD1 ECU and jumper harness. Then find a tuner and have the car tuned.

If you wnat to get by a little easier, pick up a JDM p30 (runs a B16) and the OBD2 to OBD1 harness. But your gains will be minimal.


as you put it... <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(I can "feel" the computer rolling back the timing if i jump in it's *** suddenly. It's done that since she was brand new). </TD></TR></TABLE>
there may be something wrong with the car that's making the knock sensor think that it should pull timing.
are you using premium fuel? (good fuel not what ever is cheapest at the time.) I use only Shell premium in mine and I can tell when I'm forced to put in anything else.

210k miles on a EM1 (chassis code of the 99-00 SI) then you may be burning oil which will cause knock which will cause the ECU to pull timing.
it may also be time for a rebuild, that many miles with that trans is a lot of wear on the cylinders and rings.


also based on way you worded your question, you're going to need a little bit of a flame suit on this forum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there may be something wrong with the car that's making the knock sensor think that it should pull timing.

are you using premium fuel? (good fuel not what ever is cheapest at the time.) I use only Shell premium in mine and I can tell when I'm forced to put in anything else.

210k miles on a EM1 (chassis code of the 99-00 SI) then you may be burning oil which will cause knock which will cause the ECU to pull timing.
it may also be time for a rebuild, that many miles with that trans is a lot of wear on the cylinders and rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true, carbon buildup will also contribute to this. I need to use 91 in my B16A because 89 consistently misfires/crosses out of vtec at around 6400rpm, I also get no CEL when it does this. It is not abnormal for an old motor to need higher octane to maintain an engines performance. I would check your timing, and if that does not help, pump a higher grade fuel.

If you have very few modifications, the stock ECU will account for up to a 20% increase in fuel trim before it gets pissed and throws a system too rich CEL, this is normally enough for most I/H/E mods.

 

I've used 93 octane since new. And it feels like after 2500-3000 rpm, the engine seems more "eager" to go. And WTF is a flame suit?

 

That and i've found that this particular car doesn't care for Mobil gasoline. It ate 3 O2 sensors when she was still under warranty, so i switched to BP/Amoco. I asked about the ECU's because yes, Honda does a very good job of tuning their vehicles. I want to eliminate "soft spots" in the power curve. I've heard they tone down the power in certain areas of the curve, to compensate for market interest, or some ****. I.E, the Integra GSR is supposedly(and this is what i've read, don't shoot the messenger) aimed at younger women, and they didn't like the aggressive lower end response of the engine, so Honda tuned it out. I want to eliminate any of those "weak spots", if you will, for my car, hence the ECU question. And i dont want to puss out and get a piggy back system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200kCivicSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That and i've found that this particular car doesn't care for Mobil gasoline. It ate 3 O2 sensors when she was still under warranty, so i switched to BP/Amoco. I asked about the ECU's because yes, Honda does a very good job of tuning their vehicles. I want to eliminate "soft spots" in the power curve. I've heard they tone down the power in certain areas of the curve, to compensate for market interest, or some ****. I.E, the Integra GSR is supposedly(and this is what i've read, don't shoot the messenger) aimed at younger women, and they didn't like the aggressive lower end response of the engine, so Honda tuned it out. I want to eliminate any of those "weak spots", if you will, for my car, hence the ECU question. And i dont want to puss out and get a piggy back system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Might not be your gas, since it comes out of every engine, if your throwing out raw fuel, burning oil or burning coolant, that will kill an O2 pretty quick also, as will fuel additives.

 

No, no. Still under warranty like in 1999, less than 36k on the clock. No raw gas or any coolant or anything like that. I want to tune my engine the way I want. I don't need a trouble shoot for my car, as there is nothing "wrong"with the car. Like i said, i want to remove any factory "tune downs", if any, as well as prep the car for a future build, and I feel that besides I/H/E, an ECU and a hi-perf rebuild are the next steps. Pistons, rods, and rings are easy to pick. ECU's i think require a little more "shopping", if you will.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200kCivicSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to tune my engine the way I want.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then you have two options.

A) Purchase a piggy-back device such as an Apex'i V-AFC or a Field SFC-VTEC

B) Purchase a chipped OBD-1 ECU and a conversion harness, and tune with something like Crome, Uberdata, or Hondata

Either way, you're going to need access to a dyno, a wide-band O2, or preferably both in order to properly tune the setup.

 

Cool. Anyplace have good deals on Hondata units?

 

I don't want to sound like a dumbass, but i want to really research this before i dump a bunch of moolah on stuff.