Going CRVTEC with the NA & high compression - which brand of piston? Even though I have had Arias before, heard that Ross or JE are lighter (?) in weight.Also, did Endyn ever get their Compression ratio thing together for the Roller Waves - I had heard that there were a lot of probs with them not being what they were stated and usu lower.

Also, anybody with valve issues with b16a head and ITR valves and cams?

One other question: headers? These should be completely interchangeable with b16a or is there clearance issues with the block.

One more: is it possible to retrofit a knock senson into the b20b which I have heard does NOT come with one?

 

ALL OF THE FORGED PISTONS ARE CLOSE IN WEIGHT..BUT ALWAYS HEAVIER THAN A CAST HONDA PISTON..YOU CAN ALSO RUN A CLOSER PISTON TO WALL CLEARANCE ON A CAST PISTON. IF YOU USE A B20Z PISTON...YOU CAN GET 11 TO 1 OR HIGHER WITH A SLIGHT MILL..ITS A FLAT TOP..BUT MAKE SURE YOU CLEARANCE THE VALVE RELIEFS FOR THE BIGGER CAMS.

THERE IS A SPOT ON B20 BLOCKS FOR A KNOCK SENSOR..HOWEVER..MOST GUYS SEARCHING FOR BIG N/A POWER ARE RUNNING A CHIPPED P28..WHICH DOES NOT UTILIZE A KS. THE HEADER CAN BE SWAPPED BACK AND FORTH.

.....I HAVE A CUSTOM..85MM ARIAS PISTON IN STOCK...(1MM OVERSIZE).. THAT IS 11.5 TO 1 WITH A B16A HEAD WITH A 89 MM STROKE (LS/CRV) (NO MILL REQUIRED)..THIS IS A CUSTOM PISTON MADE ONLY FOR TECH43 AND IS MACHINED FROM THE NEW "HOLLOW DOME" FORGINGS..THIS PISTON IS APPX. 100 GRAMS LIGHT THAN ARIAS' PREVIOUS 85MM 13 TO 1 SHELF 85MM PISTON

 

Go Endyn rollerwaves, Good quality at a great price

 

personally i went with JE pistons on my LS/Vtec set up... but only cause of name and dependability i have had with them on my turbo set up... i would answer your question about the b16a head with ITR parts but i went with aftermarket head parts and CTR cams.... the header thing.... there was no clearance issue with my LS block.... i dont know if the CRV block is taller, you might wanna ask about that.... and if your worried about throwing codes... fukk the knock sensor, personally i just had all capabilities from the ECU for O2 sensors and knock sensors so i dont have to be worried about throwing any codes...... peace

Jason P

 

Damn, you in Oxnard I was just there about three weeks ago as sister lives there.What happened is that I was running about 11.5: 1 b16a and actually hit the first spark plugs I tried.

I am going to go about 12.5:1 with the CRVTEC in this set up so might be some knocking on the street, and KS might be good idea.

I was wondering if the block on a b20b was wider than say a b18a and therefore be a bit of a clearance prob. Actually the decks will be same height, just the bore to be 3 mm greater in CRV.

I know Fred Ellis has run a sim. hookup in his 1G CRX but not too much about the internals.

I think the biggest probs will be with the axles where need spindles plus CV boots plus rotors, calipers, and I think a 90-93 inner axle.HASport has a bunch of junk which should be good.

Right now planning on S1 tranny and PR3 Mugen ECU - hopefully "smog" techs won't be able to ID any of that...

The issue on Rollerwaves was that evidently they were screwing up a bunch of the compressions, or effective compression ratio...

 

How high of a CR is it possible to run with a PR3 head and still remain streetable? Most of the places that stock JE pistons only have them in 10.5:1 and 12.5:1 shelf. I'd be a little wary of running 12.5:1 on pump gas...unless of course someone else has done it reliably.

TECH43 Racing: You seem to have good info. But turn off the caps lock. Thanks.


[Modified by MrFatBooty, 7:50 AM 12/16/2001]

 

"Conventional" wisdom says 11.5:1 on pump gas, but if you run KS you may get al ittle assistance with running a bit more and retard the timing slightly will get you prob 12.0. Bunch of peeps claim 12.5 but proof is in the pudding.

A lot of other factors also, like shape of combustion chamber and piston dome shape and surface....

I am not sure about Rollerwave by Endyn as they make lots of claims but have heard stuff like their CR's quoted are wrong and usu. inflated.So who to believe?

Also, as an example for a PR3 head to be optimal in a b20, got to do bowl/combustion chamber work to match the larger bore as a minimum for max efficiency.

Can not just mill the head until you get 12.5 even tho measured numbers will geve you that as another example.

 

12.5:1 is absolutely possible on the street as long as you have standalone. Standalone and TUNING are key to high cylinder pressure, weather it be high boost or high compression NA. Just my $.02

 

yeah you will get some knocking, im not claiming to know everything but what i do know i like to help out with.... and i talk to the guys over at RS all the time and they said yeah 12:1 would be pushing it without knocking, but 12.5:1 in order to avoid knocking you might need to run race gas all the time, i just kept it plain and simple in my set up.... im staying at 11:1.... by the season of 2003 i will be runing on a national basis, travelling to the east coast to campaign the car.... but lets see how i do this season first aye... lol.... peace and good luck with your car

Jason P

 

hey, which engine management, and can I piggyback that on a PR3 or likewise?
gonna try for 12.5 compression and load that puppy in the CRX....

 

Absolutely, 12.5:1 is possible on the street with pump gas, but your maps have to be perfect. We are currently running a 12.4:1 (Toda pistons) in a build GSR with spec B's and no problems. Even before going to the dyno the engine was broken in without any problems. I am in Canada though and 94 octane gas is our highest grade that you can buy form any Sunoco, but I think 91 should be sufficient with proper tunning. The easyest way to tune your maps is probably with the use of Hondata, since it utalizes your wireing harness as well as all the stock sensors. Ofcourse you can tune off your O2 as well as KS with Hondata, which you will not need unless you are running J&S safe guard.

 

But Hondata is only with OBD I & II, right?

 

I would say 12.0:1 is a safe figure for the street w/ just tuning and a good air/fuel controller. Any higher and i'd go with stand-alone, as someone mentioned.

oh and here is a link for all the various ecu setups hondata will accept: http://www.hondata.com/ecuswapguide.html

 

hey people... where do you experience the most detonation (what rpms), when your timing is too much?

 

at wot any range you can get detonation at. try a honda you can adjust your timing at any rpm. also get some cooling mods to stop detonation.