(pics)what to do to b18b1 while its on the ground
Thread Starter
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From: 30min outside baltimore,md
hey ht,
just picked up a b18b1 from the yard this past weekend. im slowly getting the missing sensors, gaskets, hoses/belts, bolts and such. is there anything that you would recommend i do before the actual swap? i dont have any large goals now, just want it running strong and reliable. the motor has 128k on it and ran fine before i pulled it(tested at yard). the 95 teg was totaled on the sides and rear and the front was clean.
as always, thanks in advance. now for the pics!




just picked up a b18b1 from the yard this past weekend. im slowly getting the missing sensors, gaskets, hoses/belts, bolts and such. is there anything that you would recommend i do before the actual swap? i dont have any large goals now, just want it running strong and reliable. the motor has 128k on it and ran fine before i pulled it(tested at yard). the 95 teg was totaled on the sides and rear and the front was clean.
as always, thanks in advance. now for the pics!




Last edited by joes-92; Apr 26, 2013 at 05:43 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: 30min outside baltimore,md
would you still replace tube seals if they look brand new? no oil on plugs as well. thanks for the parts list too!
Rear main seal for sure. Anything that needs to be done to the transmission. Timing kit if you can get the pulley off. Oil pump maybe.
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man i love this site! thanks!
do these motors have multiple plug seals like the d series? ill prolly do all the gaskets under the vc. i should have my electric impact gun in the mail soon. im going to try it out when i do the timing belt.
for the cam seals, is that what that goop looking stuff is in pics 1 and 2? looks like a cap with liquid sealant.
do these motors have multiple plug seals like the d series? ill prolly do all the gaskets under the vc. i should have my electric impact gun in the mail soon. im going to try it out when i do the timing belt.
for the cam seals, is that what that goop looking stuff is in pics 1 and 2? looks like a cap with liquid sealant.
cam seals are located behind the cam gears that the belt rides on.
i dont see any goop you are referring to.
I myself cannot find a B series trans to mate with my b20b4, i need a 94 to 01 integra ls 5 speed trans and i refuse to spend 5 to 700 on one, they aren't worth that much. I sure wish i could find one for a decent price.
i dont see any goop you are referring to.
I myself cannot find a B series trans to mate with my b20b4, i need a 94 to 01 integra ls 5 speed trans and i refuse to spend 5 to 700 on one, they aren't worth that much. I sure wish i could find one for a decent price.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: 30min outside baltimore,md
cam seals are located behind the cam gears that the belt rides on.
i dont see any goop you are referring to.
I myself cannot find a B series trans to mate with my b20b4, i need a 94 to 01 integra ls 5 speed trans and i refuse to spend 5 to 700 on one, they aren't worth that much. I sure wish i could find one for a decent price.
i dont see any goop you are referring to.
I myself cannot find a B series trans to mate with my b20b4, i need a 94 to 01 integra ls 5 speed trans and i refuse to spend 5 to 700 on one, they aren't worth that much. I sure wish i could find one for a decent price.
the goop is actually on the dizzy side, on the end of the cam parallel. i guess thats not it though.
Thread Starter
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send your head off and get it grinded down, cleaned, checked for leaks - most machine shops do it for like 90$ and it's a great Idea....
I have stock headers/downpipe for that if you need it - I ran them in my all motor b18b1 and they're coated all the way to the sensor.
I have stock headers/downpipe for that if you need it - I ran them in my all motor b18b1 and they're coated all the way to the sensor.
ok from what the OP is saying the engine is ok and runs fine. i would not remove the head and mill it and all that for no reason, The honda reliability fairy will exit the engine takin reliability with it, JUST KIDDING) but seriously i would just do routine maintenece, definately wouldnt take the head off for no apparent reason.
the goop the OP is referring to was probably to aid in sealing the VC gasket.
the goop the OP is referring to was probably to aid in sealing the VC gasket.
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p.s. hhi huh? i just left mcrd(naval medical support) parris island last june. i miss it down there. didnt care to much for hh(loved the golf!)
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I actually live in port royal moved here a month ago from HHI.
but i mean, hopefully the car runs "fine" tbh you said it ran.... not really knowing if its still A-ok.... I dont trust junkyard motors, just because it looks untouched doesnt mean that it has not been gone over; esp by the previous owner....
the head took me 20 min max to take off, with arp studs 2 days ago.... not a lot of trouble, you dont have v-tech....
its 14 cam cap bolts and 8 head bolts....
taking off 22 bolts, and payin the 35$ - thats for the head gasket, then 85$ for BnT (beaufort machine shop) to clean, check for cracks, and mill if needed - with pics to show they do great work....
to know what
A) your piston's and piston ring shape are in
B) if there's cracking/warping from running to hot or improper torquing from some past work
C) valve condition is, no leaking... they also clean the valves at most shops...
Idk I'd do all that before you put it in the car, ****, tbh idc what engine i buy and what shape its in, I always break it down and put all new bearings, all new gaskets etc in it on the major areas, just to know it was done correctly.
but i mean, hopefully the car runs "fine" tbh you said it ran.... not really knowing if its still A-ok.... I dont trust junkyard motors, just because it looks untouched doesnt mean that it has not been gone over; esp by the previous owner....
the head took me 20 min max to take off, with arp studs 2 days ago.... not a lot of trouble, you dont have v-tech....
its 14 cam cap bolts and 8 head bolts....
taking off 22 bolts, and payin the 35$ - thats for the head gasket, then 85$ for BnT (beaufort machine shop) to clean, check for cracks, and mill if needed - with pics to show they do great work....
to know what
A) your piston's and piston ring shape are in
B) if there's cracking/warping from running to hot or improper torquing from some past work
C) valve condition is, no leaking... they also clean the valves at most shops...
Idk I'd do all that before you put it in the car, ****, tbh idc what engine i buy and what shape its in, I always break it down and put all new bearings, all new gaskets etc in it on the major areas, just to know it was done correctly.
man i love this site! thanks!
do these motors have multiple plug seals like the d series? ill prolly do all the gaskets under the vc. i should have my electric impact gun in the mail soon. im going to try it out when i do the timing belt.
for the cam seals, is that what that goop looking stuff is in pics 1 and 2? looks like a cap with liquid sealant.
do these motors have multiple plug seals like the d series? ill prolly do all the gaskets under the vc. i should have my electric impact gun in the mail soon. im going to try it out when i do the timing belt.
for the cam seals, is that what that goop looking stuff is in pics 1 and 2? looks like a cap with liquid sealant.
I actually live in port royal moved here a month ago from HHI.
but i mean, hopefully the car runs "fine" tbh you said it ran.... not really knowing if its still A-ok.... I dont trust junkyard motors, just because it looks untouched doesnt mean that it has not been gone over; esp by the previous owner....
the head took me 20 min max to take off, with arp studs 2 days ago.... not a lot of trouble, you dont have v-tech....
its 14 cam cap bolts and 8 head bolts....
taking off 22 bolts, and payin the 35$ - thats for the head gasket, then 85$ for BnT (beaufort machine shop) to clean, check for cracks, and mill if needed - with pics to show they do great work....
to know what
A) your piston's and piston ring shape are in
B) if there's cracking/warping from running to hot or improper torquing from some past work
C) valve condition is, no leaking... they also clean the valves at most shops...
Idk I'd do all that before you put it in the car, ****, tbh idc what engine i buy and what shape its in, I always break it down and put all new bearings, all new gaskets etc in it on the major areas, just to know it was done correctly.
but i mean, hopefully the car runs "fine" tbh you said it ran.... not really knowing if its still A-ok.... I dont trust junkyard motors, just because it looks untouched doesnt mean that it has not been gone over; esp by the previous owner....
the head took me 20 min max to take off, with arp studs 2 days ago.... not a lot of trouble, you dont have v-tech....
its 14 cam cap bolts and 8 head bolts....
taking off 22 bolts, and payin the 35$ - thats for the head gasket, then 85$ for BnT (beaufort machine shop) to clean, check for cracks, and mill if needed - with pics to show they do great work....
to know what
A) your piston's and piston ring shape are in
B) if there's cracking/warping from running to hot or improper torquing from some past work
C) valve condition is, no leaking... they also clean the valves at most shops...
Idk I'd do all that before you put it in the car, ****, tbh idc what engine i buy and what shape its in, I always break it down and put all new bearings, all new gaskets etc in it on the major areas, just to know it was done correctly.
All this plus all rubber hoses, clutch, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dizzy O-ring, exhaust cam seal the one on the trans side of the motor, clean the crap out the motor and engine bay.
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thats at the top of my list! i cant wait to hose that bad boy down. the bay is god awful fugly. i started stripping the vc for primer and paint last night.
also has anyone had any luck using the d series dizzy on a b18? i saw a couple of post that say it can be done with little mod.
also has anyone had any luck using the d series dizzy on a b18? i saw a couple of post that say it can be done with little mod.
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here she is...
1992 vx, d15b7, 172k
purchased for $400 on 21feb13
most of it(including the engine comp) is the same way i bought it. the rims and 4 mismatched tires(17 or 16in, cant remember), f1 fenders and headlights came with it, as well as the hack job of a motor swap(seen in pics). the po decided to primer the engine comp and neglected to tape anything off. they painted over EVERYTHING including parts and the whole wire harness(s) i put 20% all around, new dizzy, wires/plugs, short ram, LED tails, 4300k ac 55w hid kit, new hu, auto locks and alarm, axles and yonaka catback with extra resonator, headers, coolant overflow tank, new temp sender & sensor, tstat, map sensor, ebay fogs(harness already fried). im sure i left some out. the dd/parts getter is the white dakota in the background and dont let the TN plates fool you.




1992 vx, d15b7, 172k
purchased for $400 on 21feb13
most of it(including the engine comp) is the same way i bought it. the rims and 4 mismatched tires(17 or 16in, cant remember), f1 fenders and headlights came with it, as well as the hack job of a motor swap(seen in pics). the po decided to primer the engine comp and neglected to tape anything off. they painted over EVERYTHING including parts and the whole wire harness(s) i put 20% all around, new dizzy, wires/plugs, short ram, LED tails, 4300k ac 55w hid kit, new hu, auto locks and alarm, axles and yonaka catback with extra resonator, headers, coolant overflow tank, new temp sender & sensor, tstat, map sensor, ebay fogs(harness already fried). im sure i left some out. the dd/parts getter is the white dakota in the background and dont let the TN plates fool you.






