I just swapped my ITR from my wrecked civic into a hatch..
The engine was just rebuilt and had only 600 miles on it when it was wrecked and still ran fine after the wreck (rear ended).

The engine sat in the wreckage for nine months. (forgot to drain the oil)

swapped it and it cranked fine in the new hatch. seemed to idle fine.
however once up to temp the head felt ALOT hotter than it should be.
coolant running though hoses fine and temp gauge says normal.

When I give it gas it boggs down terribly and knocks..

I am thinking one of two things..

1. From sitting for nine months with oil in it the oil pump is gunked up and needs cleaning or repair..

2. from transporting the motor in the back of an explorer The oil pan might have dented just enough to block the oil pickups..

My question is does anyone know how to check the oil flow through the head?
Does anyone know how to check the oil pickup clearances?

Thanks in advance.

 

okay so I figured out that it was only firing two cylinders.. idle sounded fine though..

I pulled the injector connectors one by one while running noticed no change in idle on 2 and 4 but 1 and 3 stalled it.
I hooked a multimeter to the battery ground and probed the connectors one by one with the ignition on but not running. Found that sure enough there was no continuity from the ecu feed to injectors 2 and 4.
Apparently the wires in the harnees broke during the engine pull.
I ran new wires from the injector connectors to ecu pin A2 and A5.

All cylinders firing correctly now.. HOWEVER...

My Vafc still shows no oil pressure in the head. I have triple checked the wiring on it. I know this sensor will only prevent vtec from engaging but I am curious if it is just a bad sensor or if I really have a problem..

Wouldn't the check engine light come on if the oil pressure sending unit under the intake manifold didnt have any pressure?

anybody know how to hook up a oil pressure gauge to the sending unit?
my local store only has NTP connecors on the oil gauges and obviously i need metric..

any info / advice would be greatly appreciated..

 

injectors should be cleaned because those will gunk
as far as the oil pressure; your vafc does not show you oil pressure, the vtec oil pressure switch only checks for 50+ psi when vtec is engaged .
hook up an oil pressure gauge to the back of the block, where your stock oil pressure switch is.
you will need a 1/8 bspt to npt converter to be able to hook up your common oil pressure gauge
is highly un probable that the oil pump gummed up enough to clog oil pressure, usually just the pressure relief piston sticks a little

 

Thanks, I looked it up and you are correct. the VAFC does not show oil pressure.
the PRS parameter is the intake manifold pressure which is not working..
Looks like I am gonna have to check the MAP sensor..

 

Alas.... I swapped out the instrument cluster for an SI that has tach and higher rpm gauge..
come to find out that the check engine light had been on but did not work in the old cluster. talk about misleading huh...
throwing codes 3, 9, 22 which are Map sensor, no1 cylnider pos sensor and vtec presure sensor..

looks like I am going to have to test more wires in the harness..
uhg....