My oil light is on when I turn the key on, and the temperature reads above H when the car is cold and not running. Should I replace thermostat, radiator fan switch, and oil pressure sensor on the back of the motor? I believe the Oil PSI sensor has 1 wire and the Radiator fan switch has two. They both screw into the block, right above the oil filter. Brand new Oil Pump, Water pump, timing belt ect. (complete engine rebuild). It does not leak any water. I am just beyond stumped on this. I have searched to the end of the internet and can't find any good pics/ explanations/ solid answers on what it could be. T.I.A

 

Does the oil light stay on once the car starts?

If the temp gauge is screwy, that would be an issue with the coolant temp. sensor (located on the head).

 

yes the oil light stays one while the car is running. it is very dim though?

 

MAKE SURE you have enough oil psi. Dont run the engine until you have a gauge to read oil psi...i wouldnt trust the light being on for a loose wire...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MAKE SURE you have enough oil psi. Dont run the engine until you have a gauge to read oil psi...i wouldnt trust the light being on for a loose wire...</TD></TR></TABLE>

wouldnt wanna expletive that fresh motor up

 

Yeah, as a precaution, definitely don't run the engine (although it sounds like an electrical problem since the temp gauge is also screwy). You can always get a cheap mech. oil pressure gauge at Pep Boys for $20 and return it after you check your pressure. I always do that


If the oil pressure light is going funny and the temp gauge is going funny, odds are that it's an electrical problem. After all, aren't you using the same sensors that were on the motor before the rebuild? Why would they suddenly go bad? There's probably a wiring issue somewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, def don't run the engine. You can get a cheap mech. oil pressure gauge at Pep Boys for $20 and return it after you check your pressure. I always do that </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL....they dont check oil residue?

but its a hella good idea for this guy though...

 

Haha, thanks guys. I am hoping it's a ground issue. I'll buy what ever sensors or gauges I need as long as I don't run the risk of screwing this motor up. I mean 1500 into a d series isn't exactly a cheap rebuild by any means! Any tips or links on how to install an Oil Psi gauge where does it plug in? And what is a good oil psi to expect once I get the gauge! Thanks again!

 

remove the oil pressure sensor, and it screws into the block. as for pressure, im not sure. but someone on here should know

 

On my y8, start-up PSI is just under 90.

 

do i still need the sensor? or is it no good?

 

Just let the sensor hang. Or remove it for the time being.

 

I went to Advance Auto Parts and bought a cute little Oil Psi Gauge ( non rice style ) even thought it was a few bucks more.. I can do with out the purple neon glow coming from my oil gauge! Anyways, I removed the factory oil psi sensor connected to the harness for the warning light. Screwed in the brass fitting that came with my gauge and ran the hose through the fire wall blah blah blah you know how to do it. Started the car and it ran at about 85 psi until it warmed up and then it started to settle down to about 25-30 psi. So I don't know if that is good or not. Then if you get on the gas the psi will jump up to 80+ pending on how much you gas it. My motor is at the very beginning of its break in period, so I didnt rev it past about 4500rpm. Now that the oil light problem is taken care of, I still have one more that prevent me from driving. Like I stated before, my temp gauge(factory on stock cluster) is reading hot with the needle as far as it will go up, I noticed that when I was reving my motor that when it got to about 3500 rpm is would kinda go down to cold as if it were a boost gauge for a turbo or something. So what is wrong? Is it a ground problem? The ground at the valve cover and the ground off the tranny are good and solid. Are there any other grounds that I am looking over?( besides the battery ) Sorry for the long explanation of whats going on, but I know how it is to read a question and not have enough information.

 

bump for some answers!!

 

check out the wiring diagram. i 90% sure it a short to ground. cause when you rev your motor your using more amps, this could cause it to drop a few.

 

I still don't know about the temp gauge issue, but the oil press. sounds great. I get about 90 psi at startup and at full operating temp it drops to 25 psi. 90 is the highest mine goes before the pressure release opens (roughly 4500 RPMs.)

Anway, try to figure out the gauge problem ASAP. New motors often overheat because getting all the air out of the coolant system is tricky. Have you made sure the coolant system is bled? Since your gauge is going screwy, you aren't going to know if you start to overheat.

Also, do you know how to check for bubbles in the coolant system?

 

Yeah. I have bled the system, more than a few times actually. I went and bought a water temp gauge today. That way I can drive the car until i get this problem figured out in the mean time. where you screw fitting into for the water temp gauge? I'll go search now. And also wiring diagram for my car?

 

91 civic si

 

to the top

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilovemyef9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And also wiring diagram for my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Diagram for what? There's a million different wiring diagrams for each car.

 

for engine harness.