Hey muckman,

The reason that you still have the "hop" that you are talking about is because you did ALL of the motor mounts. I have a friend that had all the motor mounts installed and hated the ES setup, then he removed the front mounts and most of the "hop" went away (there was some, but not very noticeable).

I was told (by my shop) that you only want to do the rear motor mounts when you do an ES kit. As for the "master kit" I am in the process of helping install one now, it is a pain, but in the end it will be worth it...

 

Did you get to notice it first hand that the wheel hop went away after only hte rear engine mount bushing was installed? (all variables ie:rpm launched at was the same and all that?) Cuz if so hmmm, maybe i should just order that one...

so in everyones opinion, what bushings should be ordered, and what shouldn't be?
my car is a 94 teg, and its got about 105KM on it.

 

for a DIYer, would it be possible to press out the stock bushings w/ a c-clamp by rigging something up? like C-clamp with a block of wood or something creating space between the suspension part and the clamp?

also, for your tie rod and ball joint boots, did the stock clips and parts fit w/ the polyurethane ones? the polyurethane boots *look* bigger than stock somehow. maybe its just me.

 

hey kimo- so your saying not to get all the inserts? i was thinking about installing the entire kit and getting the inserts, so i should just get the rear mount bushing?

 

On your 94 I'd recommend going with the master kit. It's about $120-$140 from http://www.suspension.com.

Find the ball joint cover bushings and throw them in the trash, first thing. They are garbage. Install all the bushings in the kit. Do the shifter bushings first since they're the easiest and they'll just give you a taste of what's in store when you replace the rest.

Most of the rest of the stock bushings are pressed in. You can use a saw and a chisel to drive out the old bushings, or you can take them to a machine shop and have them pressed out. Do whatever sounds better to you.

Installation is very easy on the majority of the bushings. Grease them up with the supplied grease like it says in the instructions. It helps to have a can of WD-40 or any other lubricating spray handy, as well as a hammer. With this all the bushings should go in with little drama.

If you're getting the motor mount inserts, do the rear mount first. Yeah, it's the hardest one to replace, but it's also going to give you the most noticable improvement. Install the front inserts later if you feel you need to. Personally I'd leave out the front mounts as just the rear works great, and the fronts add a lot of extra vibration.

Justin

 

The Es mounts dont vibrate much, you can live with it. I have prothane inserts too, now THAT vibrates!

 

Stiff, harsh, yet responsive and solid. 90% of my bushings are urethane. It's a compromise I'm willing to live with on a street car.

 

OK, does anyone have comment on the fact that ES says that the black bushings are impregnated with graphite and less likely to be noisy vs the red ones... the graphite would discolor bushings, as they say. I can handle vibration and more transfered road noise, but squeaking on a daily driver really tweeks me off...
I'm ripping the GSR apart for a rebuild next weekend and figured it would be the time as the engine will be out. I've got to replace the steering rack boots as well...

 

I finally got mine installed. Took about 2 months of being lazy and what not to get it done. All I can say is neato... the car is much harder to steer, but is way more responsive. It catches a rut in the road and off it goes. I can live with pretty much everything that these bushings do. I've also got the motor mounts, had those scince my first swap. They are pretty cool. It's a free back massage.

 

... point was, who had experience with the black master kit, and did it squeak?

 

I just have my shifter bushings and my friend and i noticed a very noticible diffrence. It seemed alot more crisp...the shifting that is.

 

what tools do the DIY's recomend for this job?
Pics?

 

when i buy my next car, that is one of the first things i will replace, i was really happy when i did that mod up to urethane!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Audipwr1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what tools do the DIY's recomend for this job?
Pics?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Patience is the greatest tool.

You will need a butane torch, a press, saw (for metal), chizel, hammer and probably a friend to help out.

The LCA bushings are a Mother F**ker and the rear trailing arm bushings are even worse!

Here's a good website that will tell you the appropriate steps to take:
http://overboost.com/story.asp?id=426
Try that website and scroll down the page a bit until you find the appropriate information.

BTW: I did the work on a CRX

 

I did the front and rear conrtol arms and shock mount kits from ES in about 3 hours. The key to the whole install is an Acedilene torch (no oxygen needed). It will burn out the bushing fast and then just use a sawzall and cut the edge on the remaining part of the bushing out. Then jsut push the new one it. I didnt even use a press.

Can someone direct me to the rear trailing arm kit. This is the only kit i do not have.

 

for those of you worried about having squeeking issues, after you have pressed the old bushing out you should drill a hole in the side and tap it for a greese fitting, that way if it squeaks just get at it with a grease gun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted3g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did the front and rear conrtol arms and shock mount kits from ES in about 3 hours. The key to the whole install is an Acedilene torch (no oxygen needed). It will burn out the bushing fast and then just use a sawzall and cut the edge on the remaining part of the bushing out. Then jsut push the new one it. I didnt even use a press.

Can someone direct me to the rear trailing arm kit. This is the only kit i do not have.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Suspension.com

 

What grease..besides the one from energy suspension, can I use on these bushings? Mobil Systhetic grease?

 

ttt..lets go people.

 

have you guys seen this?

http://www.crxsi.com/resources...rflex/

Ive heard too many really bad results with teh lca (the big bushing) especially which is understandable becuase honda engineers intended teh bushings to have some squishiness. But with hard *** bushings there is almost none and when you take a hard turn the suspensions geometry gets fucked up, its a good thing ive been lazy buying parts because ive decided not to go with urethane instead ill get either mugen or just stock, but for shifter/sway bars and stuff liket that ill get the stiffest ones i can get. I still consider myslef a novice in tricky stuff like this so if im wrong or you have any suggestions help me/us out.

 

im running hte master kit, in black it squeaks. i am using prothane trailing arm bushings. im happy. my car handles. it squeaks and groans alot.

 

Hmm interesting thread.. Well I might as well throw in my 2 cents since I have most of the master kit installed..

Well I've installed all of the master kit on my integra except for the upper a-arm bushings. I also installed the mount inserts. I have nothing but good things to say about it personally. Yes things are definetly more bumpy, but thank God my car doesn't squeak. I was sure to put moly grease everywhere around the bushings when I installed them. You can use regular moly grease to lube them or Redline has some grease that contains moly as well. Do NOT use axle grease or other thin greases, they break down so quickly it's really not a good idea.

Regarding the rear trailing arm kit. I just checked suspension.com and are the trailing arm bushings urethane? The black is just the color right?

Regarding the bushings, it's definetly a must have for older cars w/ worn out bushings. My front control arm bushings were worn out, so this definetly helped. For fairly new cars I don't see it being quite as noticeable.. The mount inserts are probably the best thing you can do to ur car for the $. There's slightly increased engine vibration, but the motor doesn't torque around like crazy, making the shifting much better.

Last thing.. Is the Rear trailing arm set only comprised of 2 bushings, or is it more than just the 2 huge bushings? Since everything else has been changed I guess I'll be ordering it as well. Thanks.

-Mike

 

Yes the rear trailing arm set from ES is just the two large bushings. One goes in each arm.

 

I just put in the rear trailing arm bushings in my Teg today and decided to do up a page for the install to help others out.

I have used ES black ones in my Teg & CRX, with the CRX running on them for about 3 years and I dont have one single squeek. If you dont grease them properly with the supplied lube I imagine they could squeek but done right they wont.

http://www.clubi.ie/bpl/Integra/Energysuspension/

[If you want to use my pictures on your own pages, you must ask me first. Im pissed off with seeing picures of mine on other peoples pages without due credit]

 

I have the black master kit... no squeeks whatsoever... not the only one that squeeks a LITTLE bit is the rear bushing on the front lower control arm but I think that's because I overtightened it a bit... I got some SERIOUS vibration out of it once when it was REALLY REALLY COLD... but other than that I'd have to say it's the best suspension mod you can do... seriously...

I had eibach prokit springs kyb struts and Susp. Tech. sway bars on my old sentra and the rear bushing on the front lower control arm removed more body roll than ALL of those components did on my sentra combined. SERIOUSLY.

as for the engine mounts... the vibration is worst at first... then YOU HAVE TO RETIGHTEN EVERYTHING... or it'll be that way forever... if you re-tighten everything (i'd recomend using a small dab of locktite on the threads of ALL the bolts) the vibration is not that bad... I have had a choppy idle since I did them so I'm not sure if that because of them...

I have also ordered all new stock mounts for the front so I'm going to put JUST those in (take out the es bushings) and see what that does... then I'll re-intall the es bushings again to see if it was my torn front stock bushing that's the sorce of the choppiness.

They did give me MUCH better throttle response and MUCH more torque steer than I had before but over all I'm not THAT impressed...

as far as the shifter bushings are concerned... they do NOTHING... at all just like was stated before... it's the short-shifter being installed in conjunction w/them that is making everyone think it does something... they don't.

the master kit is worth it but a MAJOR pain to install... I'm still not done and I have access to a lift and press.... (more my/my friends laziness then it's that difficult just time consuming.)

As far as longevity goes.. I had the red ones on my susp. tech sway bars on my old car for over 2 years and there was NO sign of damage...

the best advice I can give anyone is when you order ANY of these bushings.. order extra grease FROM ES... they use a VERY good grease which is great for there bushings... You have to use A LOT of the grease... there is no such thing as too much... it'll just squirt out if there is then you just wipe off the excess... and CLEAN THE CRAP out of ALL mating surfaces... other wise sand will tear them up and squeeks are MUCH more likely...

overall I'd have to say just the hand feel of the black ones is better than the red so if you're ordering new and aren't that fashion concious (I like the look of the black ones better anyway) DEFINATELY get the black ones.